Limp mode on the track :(
 

So I went to the track for the first time this past Wednesday and my car went into limp mode.

The track time consisted of 3 30 minute sessions. The first 2 runs my car was great, but the last run I probably made it about 15 mins in when my car would not rev past 4K.

I have an oil cooler and when limp mode happened my oil temps were at 240 degrees, so I don't think it was the oil temps? What else could cause it? I did smell something after I parked and it smelled like the clutch, and when I was driving back to the parking lot the clutch felt very floppy. It still allowed me to shift gears but, after I would depress it to put it in a gear when I would slowly let off of it it would engage the gear immediately. Usually it does not engage for a couple of centimeters or so. I didn't flush the break fluid, but didn't have any problems with the breaks. I feel as if the clutch is the culprit.

Any input would be much apprecitated as I plan to take my car back next year.

Your Berks HFC don't have heat shields like stock, and the clutch lines run right next to them so you boiled the clutch fluid. Insulate the clutch lines and flush the clutch fluid and put in high temp brake fluid like Motul RBF600 before going back on track.
240 degrees is pretty low for track temps so that should not put you in limp mode.

:iagree: sounds like the clutch fluid boiled... the stainless steel clutch line is only $30 from Z1 here, but I believe you would still need to insulate it somehow because of your HFCs.

**edit** maybe DR or someone can say whether the Motul brake fluid (I think up to 600F) or ATE Super Blue (up to 500F) can withstand the temps or if you still need to insulate the line. I was planning to do a brake and clutch flush with ATE Super Blue, but the dealer did the brakes w/o my permission :facepalm: so I'm putting it off. I like alternating the ATE Gold and Blue because it makes it easier to tell when the flush is complete :tiphat:

Get an OBD scanner so you can see what the car thinks is wrong. The FSM is a great source of technical info.

I couldn't locate a comprehensive list of what causes limp mode. Does anybody have a link or FSM page number?
What does Nissan call "limp mode"? I can't find that term anywhere in the '09 FSM.

fuel starve

Ahhh makes sense. Thanks for the info guys! I will be getting those Z1 clutch lines and flushing out the brake fluid for high temp fluid. Any advice on what to wrap the clutch lines in??

gold

sounds expenive

aerospace quality gold foil ... it is expensive, but not as expensive as real gold :tup:

Here is a link for you .... Aerospace Grade Gold Foil

I would rap your HFC's with header rap, and get a sleeve clutch line.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/heat-protection/maximum-ambient-temperature-f/2-200-degrees-f

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...eat Protection

I boiled my clutch and brake fluid last track day I attended let it cool down an went back out my oil temp reached a peak of 135° C and no limp mode.

275°f

So I ordered these to wrap my clutch lines in:

I would rather buy gold for my car than my girlfriend!


and this to wrap my HFC's in:

Exhaust Wrap


This should be enough right? I am just wondering why nobody else runs into this problem on the track? Are most people not running HFC's? Or maybe I was just shifting too much with syncro rev match on?

You may want to get a scan tool that can read your ignition timing with a useable refresh rate. Even if 240 isn't limp mode yet, at least in my car, I start losing tons of power from the timing being pulled.

I had high flow cats and tracked the car often. Running RBF600 fluid in the clutch, I never once had a problem with the clutch regardless of ambient temps. No need to wrap the clutch line but it's a simple solution. Hell, you could just wrap a few layers of aluminum foil around it and it'll do the job. You don't have to go nuts with gold foil wrap.

You should have someone experienced evaluate how you're shifting. Are you comfortable on track? Are you sure you're not preparing for downshifting into a corner and riding the clutch with your left foot (applying slight pressure)? This could certainly overheat a clutch.

Again, I've tracked a bunch, never done anything to the clutch aside from high temp brake fluid and it's always been a rockstar.