Nissan 370Z Forum - Texas World Speedway

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I am looking at doing the drivers edge event at Texas Motor speedway on Setember 28-29th with the Z Club of Texas. It will be my first ever track event.

You should do it but make sign up the day registration opens (7/29) as the spots fill up in one or two days.

World, not Motor. And most likely I'll see you there! :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2325266)

Same event/track/direction, same day, more work done to the car, and I'm more than 10 seconds slower than him even on my best lap. Shows you what a difference skill and experience makes :tup:

What are you using to collect data?

How does your break handle the tracking? Any need to add break air vent?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2381189)

What are you using to collect data?

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz (Post 2381475)

How does your break handle the tracking? Any need to add break air vent?

Brake upgrades always help. You *can* run bone-stock brakes at most of these HPDE events running in the first-timer run-group, but you will experience fade and tear up pads. So long as you're aware of it and take it a little easy and/or cut a session short when necessary you can live with it. If it were me though, even for the first event I'd at least upgrade fluid and pads.

Swap your fluid to Motul RBF-600, and upgrade the pads to something that will stand up to the abuse a little better but aren't *too* aggressive. A lot of people like Carbotech with the XP10 front and XP8 rear pads as a decent starter option. They will be a little more "grabby" than you're used to, but you'll get the hang of it when you're bedding them in on the street. Personally I'm now a fan of Carbon Lorraine's pads, which you can order through Essex - Home page . In those, something like RC-6 front and RC-5+ rear works nicely. They're a little less grabby-feeling under light braking, they have nice modulation and release, and they're relatively maintenance free when it comes to bedding/break-in. They're also more expensive, fewer options for purchase than the CT pads, and sometimes take longer to order, etc.

The very next thing on my brakes list would definitely be, as you originally asked, front brake ducts. Stillen's kit is pretty decent and helps a lot, or if you're used to do working on this kind of stuff you could fabricate your own using some quality high-temp aircraft ducting and flanges, etc. The main value in the Stillen kit (over DIY) is they've built nice flanges for the the hot side that bolt to our hubs. While you're in there you could upgrade your brake lines to some stainless ones as well.

REALLY need to get a passenger seat in my car so I can go to one of these events soon...

MONEY MONEY MONEY.

Cool, thanks. That's definitely going on my wishlist for the track car.

+1 for the CL brakes. RC6's on mine, once you get past the noise, you'll be in love.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2381826)

I'm using Home | Race-Keeper - the Black unit with their standard high-res GPS and a single windshield-mounted camera, and their OBD-II interface. I haven't yet upgraded to the multi-cam HD export thing or to their Predictive iDash unit to get realtime lap data while out, but both are on my list eventually. RK also logs some other data that doesn't show up in the Youtube videos, like Coolant Temp, MAF readings, etc.

Brake upgrades always help. You *can* run bone-stock brakes at most of these HPDE events running in the first-timer run-group, but you will experience fade and tear up pads. So long as you're aware of it and take it a little easy and/or cut a session short when necessary you can live with it. If it were me though, even for the first event I'd at least upgrade fluid and pads.

Swap your fluid to Motul RBF-600, and upgrade the pads to something that will stand up to the abuse a little better but aren't *too* aggressive. A lot of people like Carbotech with the XP10 front and XP8 rear pads as a decent starter option. They will be a little more "grabby" than you're used to, but you'll get the hang of it when you're bedding them in on the street. Personally I'm now a fan of Carbon Lorraine's pads, which you can order through Essex - Home page . In those, something like RC-6 front and RC-5E rear works nicely. They're a little less grabby-feeling under light braking, they have nice modulation and release, and they're relatively maintenance free when it comes to bedding/break-in. They're also more expensive, fewer options for purchase than the CT pads, and sometimes take longer to order, etc.

The very next thing on my brakes list would definitely be, as you originally asked, front brake ducts. Stillen's kit is pretty decent and helps a lot, or if you're used to do working on this kind of stuff you could fabricate your own using some quality high-temp aircraft ducting and flanges, etc. The main value in the Stillen kit (over DIY) is they've built nice flanges for the the hot side that bolt to our hubs. While you're in there you could upgrade your brake lines to some stainless ones as well.

FWIW I'm running RC-6E at all 4 corners now with no ice-mode or anything and it's pretty nice, but that's on the Stillen/AP kit, which is a completely different animal. If/when these ever wear down, I may try 6+6E, or even 8+6 or something like that, we'll see.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar (Post 2382151)

8 are rally pads, aren't they? Just a really high coefficient of friction but not nearly as long lasting or temperature stable?

Or am I crazy?

They don't sell 6E for the Akebonos, or I'd probably have those. The 6 have been absolutely wonderful though. I've put many thousands of street miles plus a dozen autocross days and 4 or 5 track hours on them and they're maybe half way used up... Brilliant.

I have a Nismo so that fang air duct is not really an option. This was posted yesturday and looks awesome.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...t-install.html

Thanks for the info. I don't plan on getting all this stuff or anything anytime soon. That is, if I get them. The only thing on my list is sound system and oil cooler kit because TX is friggin hot! Stop and go traffic sucks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan (Post 2382272)

I doubt they last as long, but they do grip harder, and they are for road-course stuff, too. I've only ever tried 6/5+ on the Akebonos, and 6Ex4 on the AP/Stillen kit, but my guestimation at this point is that 6/6E is even better for the Stillen kit than what I'm running now (but not enough that I'd throw out these front pads early), and that 8/6 would be ideal on slicks.

(Also in my post above everywhere that I said RC-5E I meant RC-5+ :) )

The Driver's Edge event was last weekend and we ran the track counter-clockwise this time. It rained a lot during the weekend and this first session turned out to be my fastest, even with full fuel and a passenger.

Nice vid! I had to miss out, still waiting to get the car into Lucas for cage work (any day now, supposedly, when the car before me on the list gets pushed out the door), and in the meantime the car's not really in a safely-trackable state until that's done given that all the factory safety gear has gone out the window. With luck I'll make the MSR-H event end of this month, and definitely back at TWS in November (+ whatever else I can pick up at TWS near the end of the year, maybe PDS and/or PCA).