Camber Settings for Street/Track
 

Hi

Been searching the forums for definitive answers on a good DD/Track Camber setup, want something that would be easy on the tires for daily driving, but aggressive enough for the times when i hit the track. I've read many comments, all of them recommended more negative front than rears to help with oversteering but there was no general consensus.

I'm running Tein S-tech, planning on getting SPC camber arms.

What do You guys think would be optimal settings?

My thoughts:
-2.1 Front (toe 0) and -1.9 rear (toe -0.13).

on my DD/track day Z i have -2.1 up front, zero toe, -1.5 rear with about .25 total toe in the rear ( so about .12.5 each side). our cars dont need alot of rear static camber because of the aggressive camber curve under compression.

I run -2.3 F with a tad of toe in. This gives you better turn in. Then -1.8 R with 0 toe. I have no real signs of camber wear on F and R. Different tires might handle this differently though. This setup has worked great for me. Course on track days when you reduce tire pressure you will get the extra grip/ feel you need.

Toe in gives you more straightline stabilty, not turn in.

You dont want to run toeout or even zero toe in the rear, thats what gives you the snap over steer

LIES !! :icon18:

I thought some toe OUT in the front gives better turn in??

i just recently did some modification to my Kinetix front camber arms, re aligning next week to see if i can get close to -3( the -2 im running now is not enough)

Are you going to DD this much camber? And what other suspension mods you have?

Yeah got the fronts to -3.1, i added a touch more to the rear so i went from -1.5 to -2 cause i was more on the outta edge in the rear then id like. I think thats too much for the rear but im going to test none the less and use my pyrometer for tire temp data. If -2 is too much for the rear ill bring it down to -1.75 and retest.

yeah i DD with that much camber, -3 isnt really that much and you wont see crazy irregular ware unless you commute like 100 miles a day and never take your car for a spirited or never go to track days. I run mild toe settings (zero front .20-.25 total toe in) so i dont get wacky toe ware.

my suspension mods are as followed

KW V3s
Whiteline sway bars, front set at full still, rear set at full soft
Kinetix alignment arms, front camber arms modified for extra negative camber, rear camber and toe arms

I got crazy camber -3 all around lol!! I need better rear alignment knock it down to -2 or so!!

Like this..
http://hallohage.files.wordpress.com....jpg?w=1200&h=

Do you think -2 front and -1.5 to -1.7 rear is good combination for track and street (weekends only).

Is the stock camber arms enough for the above settings?

Appreciate your reply.

Regards,
Nasm


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There is no adjustment in the front for Camber on stock arms (FUCA's). Get the SPL catalog to give yourself some adjustability.

Thank you .. appreciated

Once you get the appropriate hardware you should go at leat -2.5 up front with castor at 6 and a tuch of toe.

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My specs.
SPL arms. Hotchkis front bar
Front; camber -2.2, caster +6.5, toe .06 in
Rear; camber -1.7, toe .06 in.

You can not adjust the front for camber or caster with the stock arms. They are non adjustable.

Will order them soon, the sway bar is on the way. many thanks for sharing the details as well.

Thank you rusty, so correct me if I am wrong, I need to get the front control arm (FUCA), for the rear I need toe and camber arms? both? is that correct?

Regarding the brand, I think for the fuca SPL for sure, but for the rear arms, SPL or Z1?

Don't even think anything else other than SPL for suspension parts.

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Going fast at the track. SPL. Anything else is an accident waiting to happen.

Spl for sure. Z1 has known failures, less adjustability.

In the rears you need camber arm, traction arm and EITHER the mid-links or toe arm:

If you run true type coilovers (spring wrapped around damper) you get the toe arm

If you run OEM type (spring separate from damper) you get the mid links.

This is all explained on their website

Also, you want their eccentric bolt lockout kit. Since your adjustments will be done with the arms you no longer want the factory eccentric bolts in the back to slip

SLP then :tup:

Many thanks for the useful info, highly appreciated.

Regards,

Sorry to bother you guys, however, while browsing the rear camber arms, I have got two options:
1- SLP Billet camber arms Here

2- Titanium rear camber links Here

My question is, are these going to do the same purpose and the different is just the material (light weight)? and that's why it cost more? or is there anything else?

appreciate your reply.

Regards,
NASM

They do the same thing. Material differences

Thank you so much. Appreciated :tiphat: