Charles did you and Mike work out the bugs with his fuel gauge? Are we waiting for Spohn to track test? Season's ramping up here in a couple of weeks.

I'm pretty sure we know what the problem is with my gauge, either the float hitting a hose or the baffle, but I don't plan on doing anything about it at this time. Since I don't drive the car on the street, and its accurate for all but the top of the range, I don't really want to pull everything out again to work on it right now.

Spohn goes to the track this weekend, I go the weekend of the 29th.

Yes we checked the resistence he was getting from his float sensor with a full tank of fuel, and his drivers side float is not hitting the end of its range... so it is hitting something inside the tank before it can go all the way up.

I have been busy this week with accounting and paperwork stuff and I have not had a chance but sometime shortly I will pull the sensor out of my car and test it again in our test fuel tank to double check again that the sensor itself does have full swing where we moved it... but I am already 99% sure it does since we put it there for that reason.

Do you have a part number on the sender unit?

I need to replace mine and might as well do it during the install process.

The fuel level sensor on the passenger side, where the stock fuel pump assembly is (dealer refers to this as fuel sending unit), can only be purchased with the entire "fuel sending unit". So this means the entire everything that goes into the passenger side is one part number at Nissan... I call it the fuel pump assembly, it houses the pump itself, filter, regulator, siphon, level sensor, etc.

Driver side, I am assuming is the same. Even though the level sensor is detachable from the flange that secures it in the tank, I am sure you have to buy the entire assembly as a "sending unit".

I can look up whatever part numbers you need, but I am not sure which side you need an OEM fuel sending unit for!

Hmm, don't know either, I guess I'll have to wait until I pull it apart. All I know now is that I am getting a code for an electrical malfunction of the level sensor sending unit. If there is a level sensor on both sides then it could be either one that is malfunctioning.

Does your fuel gauge work properly?

Negative, shows a full level of 0. Wasn't much of a problem on track before since I had to keep the tank full anyway.

that is pretty stange, especially if you have never been inside the tank to play with the components. The construction of the float sensors is pretty basic, it might be repairable. Without opening the tank, you could try checking the ohms across the 2 level sensor wires for each sensor and see which one has an open circuit... at least then you would be able to determine which of the two.

Good suggestion, I'll see if I can meter them out. Where does the wiring terminate? Obvious once I pull off the plastic?

I pull some high G's at times so shaking things loose isn't out of the question. Previously managed to bend the float arm on the G35 as well which made it hang up and show half tank at empty.

drivers side float only has the two wires. passenger side has five, and I don't remember off hand, but I think they are the thin black and white wires. Pink signals the fuel pump and thick black powers it.

^ that's correct Mike. Can't wait to test this baby out Sunday. I'm going to get it low but not such much that fuel can't cool the pumps. Got to prep my car tomorrow.

What's a reasonable low-water mark to keep from damaging fuel pump(s) with the new setup on the track (given the bulk of the liquid's still sloshing about and leaving at least the stock pump dry at times...)? 25%? 33%? Or do we just accept that the stocker over on the other side is going to eventually die even if you stay over half, and the new one cools itself well enough, so meh?

I don't know the low mark answer, but the stock one shouldn't dry out. it gets fed with the overflow from the supplementary pump.

It doesn't need fluid around it as well for cooling? Just the flow from the supplementary?