Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/)
-   -   What are the best suspension mods for the 370 for DD and some track use? (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/42109-what-best-suspension-mods-370-dd-some-track-use.html)

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 06:29 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1324519)
Racing Brake is a no name brand??

Ok, then if one were to stay DBA, would you recommend the one piece 4000 or the two piece 5000, those two pieces are FS with very light use, or a brand new set... The 4000's are single piece, but half the price... so in the end you could get all 4 4000's for the price of the front 5000's...

This is for DD and good canyon runs + eventual track days. When it comes time for serious tracking, I could always upgrade right?


And if one were to just get the fronts with stock rears, would that hamper the braking system? Or is it recommended to just swap all 4 out at the same time?
Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.

sig11 09-22-2011 10:15 AM
I figured that the cost of a full set of 2-piece rotors is way too high compared to the cost of a BBK. You have more than half of an AP Racing 6-piston BBK for the same price (front only though). :P

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 10:59 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1324688)
Sorry I though they were using the term generically, didn't see the RB logo.

In your case I would go with DBA 4000's as a replacement rotor. There is no point doing a 2-piece rotor now if the track is still a long way away. They would perform admirably on the track anyway.
Alright, so 4000's would be the best... even better than the RB ones?

I know there is some :ugh2: towards having cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs just slotted. For the DD/Spirited Canyon runs/Maybe a few track days later on, would this present a real problem, or would it just be better to get slotted only?

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 11:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1325007)
Alright, so 4000's would be the best... even better than the RB ones?

I know there is some :ugh2: towards having cross-drilled and slotted rotors vs just slotted. For the DD/Spirited Canyon runs/Maybe a few track days later on, would this present a real problem, or would it just be better to get slotted only?
RB only makes a 1-piece rotor for the base model, they don't have one that fits the sport package, only the 2-piece you referenced. The RB 2-piece would be fine as well, both companies have good metallurgy and construction.

The drilled rotors look sexy, but when the cracks start playing "connect the dots" after a couple of track days you'll be hating it. They're fine for street driving but add additional noise and help consume your brake pads faster.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 11:18 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1325020)
RB only makes a 1-piece rotor for the base model, they don't have one that fits the sport package, only the 2-piece you referenced. The RB 2-piece would be fine as well, both companies have good metallurgy and construction.

The drilled rotors look sexy, but when the cracks start playing "connect the dots" after a couple of track days you'll be hating it. They're fine for street driving but add additional noise and help consume your brake pads faster.
Yeah, I have the sport package. Just looking to get the calipers PC'd and upgrade the lines/fluid/pads/rotors and that should do just fine for me until I can get my track expertise up.

I like the RB 2 piece ones because they give you the benefits of both, slots with holes in them as opposed to crossdrilled... Would that be a good median?

They do have signifigantly better weight savings vs the 4000's...

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 11:25 AM
It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice.

The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas).

Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 11:32 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1325045)
It is street car, I wouldn't worry about small weight savings. Anything short of driving ballz to the wall flat out on track you're not going to notice.

The cross drills in the RB brakes are fine, they can still eventually crack but are less likely to crack that fully drilled rotors (the braking surface is more heat stressed than the recessed areas).

Replacement rings for the RB's will run you about 250 a corner, maybe a little more once you add on the hardware.
Hmmm... they just look better than the 4000s lol

Ok so we've narrowed it down to the Carbotech XP8s being the best pad for this purpose...

Down to 2 rotor options...

SS Lines are pretty much SS Lines, I'm looking at getting the Goodridge Phantom's myself...


All thats left is what fluid to get?

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 11:40 AM
Go cheap on the fluid until you get serious. ATE Typ-200 or Blue. $20 for 1L.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 11:45 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1325075)
Go cheap on the fluid until you get serious. ATE Typ-200 or Blue. $20 for 1L.
I'm not really the sort to be cheap... lol

I don't mind spending a bit more if the quality is there.

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 12:26 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1325094)
I'm not really the sort to be cheap... lol

I don't mind spending a bit more if the quality is there.
It is good quality fluid. 536F dry and 396F wet. Good moisture handling means it can survive up to 3 years before flush (street driving). This is not your autozone generic :) I'm just saying don't waste your money on 600F fluid when your brake temps aren't getting any where close to that, and suffer reduced moisture handling and corrosion as a result.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 12:29 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks (Post 1325213)
It is good quality fluid. 536F dry and 396F wet. Good moisture handling means it can survive up to 3 years before flush (street driving). This is not your autozone generic :) I'm just saying don't waste your money on 600F fluid when your brake temps aren't getting any where close to that, and suffer reduced moisture handling and corrosion as a result.
Fair enough... :tup:

KamiSpeed has this on the forum, is it too much for whats needed?

http://www.the370z.com/suspension-br...-have-try.html

ChrisSlicks 09-22-2011 12:32 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1325223)
Fair enough... :tup:

KamiSpeed has this on the forum, is it too much for whats needed?

http://www.the370z.com/suspension-br...-have-try.html
Yes, it is too much. The ultra high-temp fluids need to be flushed on a regular basis because they don't absorb much moisture. Moisture build up leads to corrosion.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 12:35 PM
Hmm, maybe need them to stock the stuff you're referring to instead. :icon17:

sig11 09-22-2011 12:48 PM
You can get ATE Super Blue just about anywhere too... that is one big advantage to it over Motoul for example.

XwChriswX 09-22-2011 12:50 PM
Ok, so the Super Blue is good for a DD/occasionally pushed?

This one?

http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog...blue.image.jpg

Here's a quote from the website...

Quote:
Choose from the Blue Super Blue or the Clear Typ200. The only difference is the color. Typ200 is the typical brake fluid amber in color so you can tell when you have all the old brake fluid flushed out. They're both the same price. They are both good shit
:inoutroflpuke: :bowrofl: I guess that settles it.


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