Did you over tighten lug nuts or not tighten evenly when you were at the track?

Its the pad deposits, I get them too. the session starts out smooth and deteriorates. after some easy street driving to and from the gas station, and cooling, they start out smooth again on the next session and get rougher. These cars just generate a ton of brake heat. I've had it with XP12, RP2, and Ferodo 2500 pads.

We really need cooling ducts.

Also, I recently switched to the carbotech RP2 endurance pads, and in three days at Road Atlanta, the rear pads are already halfway gone. Granted they have about a third of the surface area of the front brembo pads, which look like new, other than the paint burned off of them, but come on!

They were all tightened to 85, from the beginning, and rechecked throughout the weekend. These were with aftermarket wheels.

Okay cool, that's good to know. I was worried about it and skipped the final session, doh! I think for my next HPDE (in the Fall), I'm definitely going to try to get some duct work for my brakes.

That isn't good news about the RP2's, I was really hoping they would prove to be much longer lasting than the XP's. Although as of right now, I'm pretty happy with the life of the XP's. I'm at about half pad life for all of them, with 3 HPDE days. However, my threshold braking needs work, so I bet that if I was to get another set, they would only last for 4 HPDE days.

How brutal is Road Atlanta on brakes? I've only been to Sebring so far. I'd hope to at least get 30% more life out of those compared to the XP's since they are specifically for endurance.

Road Atlanta isn't really that hard on brakes. I used to track the 350z with brembos and the C6 with Z06 calipers there and run on hawk HP+ pads with no issues at all, and a set of pads would last me a whole season with those cars.

So are you just going to stick with the RP2's then, or try something else out?

I've got a Stoptech trophy BBK on order. 14" front and rear, switching everything up, and going to be running XP12s front and rear for now on Sharif @ Forged's suggestion.

Ah, very nice. Looking forward to hearing how that solution works for you.

You need to have the rotors machined or sand off the pad deposits with garnet (not aluminum oxide) sandpaper. According to StopTech, the aluminum oxide actually binds with the rotor and can make things worse.

Keep in mind you just can't find this stuff in the stores. Here is a link.

3M? Paper 110N Sheets

Hmm, yeah I noticed today that I'm still getting some feedback in the steering wheel when braking with the stock pads. I'll see if the wheel/tire shop can machine the rotors when I bring in my car to get the rear tires replaced.

rotors are heat sinks, not sure if shaving material is a great idea, especially on a track car. if they have some miles on it, just replace it, make sure you get them cryo treated

cryo?

No chance if these are just deposits on the rotors that they will just wear off over time?

not with the oem pads, you need super abrasive pads. i thought xp10 might work, but then they were the ones that left the deposit. do a search on how to remove rotor deposit on centriparts' website

cryo is a process that the shop freezes the rotor, it helps the rotor to dispense heat and wont wrap it as easily

Is it possible that my rotors are warped and it isn't from deposits? I looked them over and didn't see anything, but if it's subtle, I doubt I would of.

edit: I meant that I looked them over for any warp-age.