Most tracks have air on hand, but definitely check it before AND after your first run. And get your instructor's opinion on how much air you should use. I had no complaints from anyone in my car that weekend about the air pressure and I just kept it at 35psi,with dry or wet driving.

My brakes held up well, although I was getting a little bit of feedback at one time (it wasn't the ABS) and they do get a little firm after a while. Pads and some 600 fluid are on my list before my next event.

There was another Z34 at my event and he experienced no problems. I probably drove a little harder than him, but he didn't complain about the oil temp or the brakes. His car still had dealer plates on it! Screw the break-in period :rofl2::rofl2:

You absolutely DO need the cooler for any type of HPDE event!!!!! If you try without, you'll just be frustrated as you will likely induce limp mode on the second or third lap. Also, race brake pads are a must. OEM pads won't survive one day of track use. I learned this the hard way in my 350Z using up 3 sets in one weekend. If your pads do survive the weekend, they'll probably be close to worn out. Invest in a set of Carbotech pads and you will atleast have a street and track set. If you decide on a cooler, I have Stillen cooler I don't need as I upraded to the larger core. Installing is really easy. The bumper comes right off... PM me if you are interested.

I agree. I tried a Road Atlanta track event without a cooler and aside from the very first morning session, I could only get 1.5 hot laps before going into limp, and I even tried shifting at 6500rpm with similar results. Sebring is a challenging track with lots of accel and decel and plenty going on. It's going to get hot.

Good luck.

I did Limerock the other weekend- 4 sessions 20 minutes each, usually about 1:20min+/-/ lap. NO Problems at all - drove it hard - typical lap RPM 4k- redline- - Z did great on the track- smoked the twisties. Stillen G3 & Stillen CAT Back all other 100% stock - No Oil Cooler BUT Fortunately it was very cold for late March- around 30 degrees in the morning and only got up to a high of 40 degrees in the afternooon. Oil did run 240ish and for short periods get up near 260 but dropped off pretty quick if I lightened up on the gas. NO limp mode at all. But I am sure June/July could not pull this off so reluctantly will install oil cooler (concern with reliability as noted elsewhere). Thinking of going with NISMO kit asumming they got the connections fittings and hose length right- more $$$ but thinking more reliable. All other stock parts did good- brakes did get real hot but still fealt ok but considering HPS pad upgrade and stainless lines- Z has lots o go and you don't even realize pushin 130+ no worries but gets your attention tryin to scrub off the speed so I'd do more brake before more HP. Oh yea- 7AT, sport, touring...yes 7AT and it was right at home on the track and excellent performance- I ain't no NASCAR driver and do this just for fun only and have driven many MT for decades and this 7AT holds it own. PS- drove it to work Monday

I'm very surprised you didn't encounter limp mode... On another note, are you running stock brake pads? If so, I'm also surprised you can get through 4 twenty minutes sessions on stock pads... I ran my 370Z at Nashville in January and was hitting 240+ with the Stillen "Race" cooler installed. We're you pushing your car to limit? There is no reason to spend the extra cash on the Nismo cooler. The Stillen is high quality, no leaks, and comes with most everything you need to install.

Well I have to think it was the cold ambient temp that helped me on oil temp ( i've been reading oil temp issue on this site for a year now so was keeping close eye) - I ran high RPM each session don't think i dropped below 3500 to often maybe 3000 low- hit the red line down the front straight most laps. Drove a bit beyond my skill sets but Z was forgiving & fun- so was pushing both to the limit. I did notice a fairly quick drop in oil temp if I eased up a bit- in the paddock after the race in about 5-8 minutes dropped to 180-190 F @idle

Yes stock pads- performed OK but did get a lot of heavy pulsing/grabbbing on hard brake at end of front straight was pulling down from ~ 130 to maybe 70ish mph in ~ 400ft before entering turn 1 (guess at speed as only see tach). Pulled the wheels today to check all pads- did wear a lot as I expected as tons of dust on the rims @ track- but they wern't scary or anything - found quick short hard brake worked best after a few laps- but want to improve braking and looking at SS lines and HPS pads. Want to get this all done in next month for next track day in NY- hope to get 3-4 track days in per season- this is just for fun for me.

I installed my Stillen G3 & Cat Back myself and will also do the cooler as well. Happy with Stillen and looked at their cooler as well. Are all the oil lines pre-cut & terminated with fittings- that is my main concern as that is what guys having problem with

Did you really shift at 4000RPM? If so, that's the primary reason why your oil didn't heat up that much. I can bet you just an extra 1000RPM will get you an extra 5-10F in oil temp.

Also it sounds like you were running fast enough to have fun, but there is no way your stock brakes can hold through a whole 20 minute session at full speed (Lap time should be around 58-1:05 on the 370). Lime Rock is notorious hard on brakes (lack of cooling), you are not going to do long with everything stock.

3500-4K was bottom RPM. typically shifted around 6K except on front straight ran it out. I am running the 7AT and they tend to see lower temps- i assume most trackers 6MT

Agree my lap time was not balls out (limited by my skills not car) and could see stock brakes having difficulty in taking 20 seconds off my Limerock lap time. Will have new brakes in time for Monticello and will be back at Limerock end of season- maybe by then will post a better time

I think the 7AT shifts at around 7200RPM right? 300RPM might not sound like a lot, but it is for oil temp, especially at that high of an RPM. I am waiting for a cooler myself before I track.

It looks like you have sports brakes, so you should be able to go a full 20 min, but you are just buying time as you go faster.

When in Auto mode I think it does shift just below the redline- don't know exact but probably around 7200-7300 as you said. I ran it with the paddles which work well - I've had the car a year now (daily driver except in winter) so second nature to use- usually shifted at 6K but did hit the 7500 a couple times on front straight-

Yes sport model- and brakes held up fine for the full 20 minutes just upgrade pads should be fine for what I am doing