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-   -   Fortune Auto 510 (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/136019-fortune-auto-510-a.html)

justin_boy 05-13-2021 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan (Post 3994972)
315* ;)

Bc, fortune, feal etc I don't think it matters too much. As long as what you get is serviceable (preferably in the USA) and allows you to change spring rate, it's fine. The only reason I went with fortune was because of the wide range of spring tolerance. I'm sure there are pros to the other brands but that's why I chose mine.

Yeesh that’s beefy

I’ll be calling bc tomorrow and fortune auto

Gonna weigh out some options, liking the er series and 510’s are also looking good

I think I’m going to go with the 16/14 combo but my mind changes back and forth. Main concern is I don’t want to induce understeer, and have a hotchkis up front

ConekillerZ34 05-13-2021 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy (Post 3994989)
Yeesh that’s beefy

I’ll be calling bc tomorrow and fortune auto

Gonna weigh out some options, liking the er series and 510’s are also looking good

I think I’m going to go with the 16/14 combo but my mind changes back and forth. Main concern is I don’t want to induce understeer, and have a hotchkis up front

Inducing too much understeer isn't too easy to do. I run 1000lb/800lb (not exactly 18k/14k but close), and I have Hotchkis front and rear. I run my rear bar on the softest setting and the rear shocks cranked pretty far down (autocross setup). Even then there is plenty of room for oversteer left.

FWIW, I had Fortune Auto 510s on my last Z, and was quite satisfied for the price. The current owner just sent the dampers in for their first service, 5 years in, at a cost of $300.
On that car I ran only about 60% of the spring rates that I do now, but FA should be able to set it up however you like.

justin_boy 05-13-2021 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConekillerZ34 (Post 3995039)
Inducing too much understeer isn't too easy to do. I run 1000lb/800lb (not exactly 18k/14k but close), and I have Hotchkis front and rear. I run my rear bar on the softest setting and the rear shocks cranked pretty far down (autocross setup). Even then there is plenty of room for oversteer left.

FWIW, I had Fortune Auto 510s on my last Z, and was quite satisfied for the price. The current owner just sent the dampers in for their first service, 5 years in, at a cost of $300.
On that car I ran only about 60% of the spring rates that I do now, but FA should be able to set it up however you like.

ah gotcha, thank you for that info. I misunderstood that going too stiff in the front can cause understeer.

still in between bc's and fortune autos

justin_boy 05-13-2021 05:49 PM

alrighty boys

ordered the fortune auto's. 510 16k front/14k rear hyperco springs, aluminum dampers and heim joint upgrade. now i wait !!

hit up cygnus auto if you need anything, geoff is great

ConekillerZ34 05-13-2021 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy (Post 3995058)
ah gotcha, thank you for that info. I misunderstood that going too stiff in the front can cause understeer.

still in between bc's and fortune autos

Technically speaking, too stiff in the front relative to the rear does induce undertsteer. My point is just that these cars rotate pretty happily, so that shouldn't be a major concern when deciding between differences in springrates, as long as you're in a reasonable range. 16k/18k fronts would need a really really low rear number to be problematic in that sense beyond what you can just fix with shock adjustments, and you can always change spring rates later.

justin_boy 05-13-2021 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ConekillerZ34 (Post 3995076)
Technically speaking, too stiff in the front relative to the rear does induce undertsteer. My point is just that these cars rotate pretty happily, so that shouldn't be a major concern when deciding between differences in springrates, as long as you're in a reasonable range. 16k/18k fronts would need a really really low rear number to be problematic in that sense beyond what you can just fix with shock adjustments, and you can always change spring rates later.

gotcha, good to know!

justin_boy 05-13-2021 08:32 PM

should i be worried that the aluminum dampers wouldnt be as durable as the steel ones? i understand our cars are double wish bone so there isnt that much stress on the shock anyways, is that correct?

Rusty 05-13-2021 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy (Post 3995087)
should i be worried that the aluminum dampers wouldnt be as durable as the steel ones? i understand our cars are double wish bone so there isnt that much stress on the shock anyways, is that correct?

The coilovers are not load bearing per say. Just have the springs on them. Just make sure the double nuts on the bottom of the springs are tight.

justin_boy 05-13-2021 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3995098)
The coilovers are not load bearing per say. Just have the springs on them. Just make sure the double nuts on the bottom of the springs are tight.

I won’t be installing, I’ll have the shop install them. Making sure the double nuts on the bottom are tight don’t have anything to do with the dampers being aluminum right?

Rusty 05-13-2021 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy (Post 3995100)
I won’t be installing, I’ll have the shop install them. Making sure the double nuts on the bottom are tight don’t have anything to do with the dampers being aluminum right?

Well the tubes are threaded for the spring adjustment. If the lock nut is tight. You don't have anything to worry about. You will have more than enough threads for contact for the load.

justin_boy 05-13-2021 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3995102)
Well the tubes are threaded for the spring adjustment. If the lock nut is tight. You don't have anything to worry about. You will have more than enough threads for contact for the load.

That is right. What I’m asking is the aluminum as durable as the steel in terms of bending?

also even if I got the steel dampers I would have to make sure the double nut at the bottom is tight right?

i have the choice to switch still

Brendan 05-13-2021 10:44 PM

Probably not but not in any way that would be appreciable. The main reason other dampers are made of steel is for cost.

Rusty 05-13-2021 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justin_boy (Post 3995112)
That is right. What I’m asking is the aluminum as durable as the steel in terms of bending?

also even if I got the steel dampers I would have to make sure the double nut at the bottom is tight right?

i have the choice to switch still

You're not going to bend them. They're not a MacPherson strut, which is load bearing.

Rusty 05-13-2021 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan (Post 3995117)
Probably not but not in any way that would be appreciable. The main reason other dampers are made of steel is for cost.

Not really. My 3" custom valved King shocks on my Power Wagon are steel. I picked steel over aluminum for strength. The remote reservoirs are aluminum on them. Those shocks are over $5,000 for 4.

justin_boy 05-14-2021 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3995121)
Not really. My 3" custom valved King shocks on my Power Wagon are steel. I picked steel over aluminum for strength. The remote reservoirs are aluminum on them. Those shocks are over $5,000 for 4.

lol so why is it not applicable on the 370z? is it because of the way our suspension is set up?


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