That is right. What I’m asking is the aluminum as durable as the steel in terms of bending?

also even if I got the steel dampers I would have to make sure the double nut at the bottom is tight right?

i have the choice to switch still

Probably not but not in any way that would be appreciable. The main reason other dampers are made of steel is for cost.

You're not going to bend them. They're not a MacPherson strut, which is load bearing.

Not really. My 3" custom valved King shocks on my Power Wagon are steel. I picked steel over aluminum for strength. The remote reservoirs are aluminum on them. Those shocks are over $5,000 for 4.

lol so why is it not applicable on the 370z? is it because of the way our suspension is set up?

The Z is not experiencing the same forces as my truck offroad. I got around 16" of suspension travel. The shaft diameter is close to 3/4".

Gotcha! Thank you for taking the time and explaining it to me like I’m
6. Okay so now I have peace of mind. I’ll stick with the aluminum damper body. Saves a pound each corner of unsprung weight and dissipates heat much quicker which apparently is important in double wishbone suspension

been thinking about changing the order to 18k front 16k rear, but im worried transitioning will be compromised. what do you guys think about that

You need to consider that auto cross and circuit setups are different. Springs are easy items to change out. You have no aero. You also need to consider the track surfaces you run on. Bumpy and uneven surface are unforgiving if you spung too stiff. Smooth surfaces you can go stiffer. Do you like running curbs or not. Little things to consider. I would start were the majority do and then make adjustments as you get better and have a better idea of what might work best for you.

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yes i see. I mostly run streets of willow and button willow but mostly 80% towards buttonwillow. Button willow is an amazing track, pretty smooth as you know yourself im sure lol. only bad part on the track is riverside and you have to avoid a couple curbs cause the car gets squirrelly over some curbs anyways. but i feel like there are some curbs (bus stop, phil hill, the esses) that love being eaten even with high spring rates. correct me if im wrong. also want to eventually do auto club fontana which is pretty smooth and chuckwalla i heard is great as well

i made the change to 18k front/16k rear, just cause i have the personality to always be like "shoot, shoulda went more" , and i can always get the 16k/14k if i find these too aggressive like you've said before

Your ride, your money and you get to do whatever you want!

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You might want to order set of helper springs for the fortunes as well. When I went that high a rate I lost a bunch of droop since the springs don't compress as much. Having more droop allows the car to stay better composed over rough surfaces. I needed to go to a 5 inch rear spring to make space but you can use the 7 inch front. Fortune should be able to sell you the helpers you need on their site but if not dm me and I can show you my setup.

Flat rock skipping across a pond comes to mind.

haha i messed up didnt i

lol glad you guys are having fun at my expense

btw forgot to mention ill only be running r compound 100 tw tires as well

Not making fun of you and there is no messing up. You get to make your own choice as in picking a flat stone to skip across the pond. Some skip some don't and then you get to make another choice. We have been around a little while and we are still skipping stones across the pond. :tiphat:

Trial and error is always part of suspension setup. Have fun with it!

I wish it’s as easy as changing settings on a video game, or have a full crew to do the adjustment in an instant (air jacks built into the chassis, center locks, real time data, blah blah).

Just let me dream on….

.....on the fly adjustability :rofl2:

Get everything dialed in for one track. The faster you go, the slower it feels. :driving: Go to a different track, and think of what an evil handling car you have. It wants to put you into the first fence you see. :eek: Everything feels like it's in hyper speed. Back to square one.

haha okay! so I did 16k/14k and left it at that. i also bought the 18k's because as cygnus told me, they are interchangeable on the fortunes. they use a 7" 60mm with an adapter in the rear for a 65 to 60. correct me if im wrong

alrighty boys

i canceled the 510's. wait time was becoming insane and some other stuff came up.

decided to go with mcs tt1 true type

figuring out rates but i think ill start with 14k front 6k rear.

i know its been discussed before but last time was a couple years ago.

just curious as to anyone having issues with the shock tower holding up?

if you guys have done any reinforcing what kind?

At first I though you was going to say fudge it. Went out a got JRZ 4 ways with remotes.

Haha don’t tempt me I’m feeling nutty

You got about $12,000 laying around?

LOL, yep their 1 ways are 4k.

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I run 7k rear without reinforcing the shock tower. Now running rear aero with the NLR wing. Towers are still in good shape after a few years and a dozen plus track days with the true rear.
Several offs and lots of rumbles, too.

This a case of if it ain't broke don't fix it! It easy enough to fix if does go bad over time.

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haha i barely had what it took to get the mcs

sweet i appreciate it

thank you

youre right, ill just check it often