Please help me with this 0-60 time (best 6.22)
 

Guys, I just cannot get my Z 0 to 60 any faster than 6.22 (average is about 6.35).

I am spinning the tires a good bit with the high rpm launches but....I think I should still see better than 6.22 as consistent as the take offs are.

I have tried dumping the clutch at low RPM and high RPM, I've tried feathering the clutch at low and high RPM.

The best times are coming from launching at about 5000-6000 RPM and not dumping the clutch....just letting off of it smoothly. But, I can smell that clutch burning pretty good doing that.

I want to start my turbo build this weekend, but I would really like to figure this out first. Any ideas? Is this normal?


Z info
2012 Nismo
61,000 miles
has an aftermarket flywheel that is pretty loud (don't know the brand or type)
Fresh fluids (all including CSC flush, diff, trans,engine)
Stillen short throw
Mtec springs
Z1 solid diff bushings
Z1 solid engine mounts
Z1 Urethane Trans mount
K&N short intakes and filters
GReady cat back exhaust
Tein FLex Z coil overs

All road tests, 85 degrees outside with about 80% Humidity at sea level

Running 285-40-19 F8000 Otshu

Gotta have good weight transfer for launching,,,stiff coils & minimal suspension travel doesn’t help...the base suspension is probably best for this & even some softer rear springs.
You may want to remove your rear swaybar (if you haven’t already).
I drive A/T’s so can’t help with stick...ran consistent 1.94,1.95 60’ times with street tires.

I was running 2.2 second 60 foot at the track. With the sock Nismo suspension. I didn't have any weight transfer with that set up! It was supper stiff!

Try these:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtt-3492/

285/40/19? Typo or for real?

I have some 305 R888r and new rims ordered with fittment industries

Yep 35 not 40

Sorry yes,

I actually run the 285/40/18 ET SS with good results.

The 18” gives a little more sidewall height which I like.

buy a 7AT.

problem solved.

You need to buy the SPL catalog so you can properly adjust your alignment for drag racing.

I am bringing it to a local race shop to go throw my suspension set up.

I was just expecting the stock set up to come close to the numbers I see online of 4.9-5.2 second 0-60. and the same with these coil overs. I wasn't expecting to be a whole second off.

For drag racing you need you camber to be 0 deg at the minimum. Not sure if you can get that with the stock eccentric bolts. They may slip anyway. I would recommend SPL camber arms and would consider the midlinks. Not sure what coilovers you are going to use, true type or the stock divorced setup. SPL subframe bushings, Bellworks diff brace (you may have to modify depending on your exhaust). I do see some of this on your existing list.

I got mine very close to zero camber by replacing the lower control arm with an adjustable style. Then the rear toe is way off, so I installed the SPC adjustable toe bolts.

When you move the wheel out get zero camber, the ride height increases. Car is nose heavy anyway, now its worse. Need to raise the nose some to get the weight back, or shorten the rear tire height.

These toe bolts required a little grinding of the hole with a pneumatic carbide burr tool, to get the rear alighment correct, but it worked out well.

I figured i would not be able to get my camber even close to zero with the stock set up. I will look into camber arms. I have the stock set up coil overs btw

That means you can do the SPL mid-links. This will eliminate the eccentric bolts for toe also. Just need a 6 in Swift spring at your desired rate.