Drag Racing Launch set up and times for Manual Transmissions
 

Lets hear everyone's launch set up for manual transmission? :driving:

Tire
RPM
Gear
Clutch method (dump, ease into, etc.)
ETC.

0-60 time or 60 foot time

I wish this topic was discussed more on this forum but it seems like not to many people on here talk about drag racing tire setups. But if anybody runs 15 or 17 inch drag radials or slicks I would really like to hear about your setup please.

285/35/19 kumho V12 ventus
2600
1st
Ease into
60ft avg 2.1
Ever since I put the 4.08s in I have to baby it off the line if not it will just spin the tires

You may want to PM or contact Blueranger as he is killin it with his setup!

Do a search on member Phunk. He has posted a good bit of info on this and the car he setup has the record 1/4 mile time for the 370z.

305/30/19 RE-11
1st gear
no rpm launch. just full gas on last yellow.
1.95 60ft

well.........with 7AT :wtf2:

Phunk does seem to be the most knowledgeable about the drag setups but he also has a high horsepower car. But what I wanna hear about is the people with not so much power and still cracking like 1.8 60ft without crazy wheel hop..

You need to switch to a Bias ply drag slick.

Ok I understand the bias ply is for standard cars and helps with wheel hop but is anybody actually running any and can give us some feedback?

Do a search on here for user name Phunk. You should be able to find the info you are looking for. I don't have
time to search for it for you. I have read many of his contributions to drag racing setups.

The search here sucks Monkey Balls!

I have always found what I was looking for. Works for me. I have spent hours upon hours reading old threads.

So I have read every thread with drag in the title and the best info I came across for drag setup was by PHUNK. He seems to be the ONLY person on this entire forum with good knowledge about it. But what we are asking for here is for more feed back on what people are running and how well it works. It seems like only a hand full of people actually drag the 6sp Z on here or something.

I've run M&H 275/50r17 drag radials on some R33 17x9 wheels. Unfortunately that was before we got the timing system so I don't have any numbers or data to share.

I had them at 16psi and they did hook quite well when I was just NA as well as with the 110hp shot of nitrous. I only got wheel hop when I launched too high (4250rpm on the launch control was the sweet spot for me) or came off the clutch too hard.

http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...9-img-0626.jpg

I'll be back at the track end of October but with alot more power to try out some MT ET Street's in the same size, I know they are a downgrade compared to the M&H but it's what I have at the moment. I'll report back then

Ive run 15s before. You have to switch to early 350z base model rear brakes. Youll need calipers, pads, rotors, and I think the lines IIRC. Light modifications to the backing plate.

You can run a 26x10.5 tire if you want to stay stockish diameter. If you have lots of power you may want to step up to a 28x10.5. One thing to note is that I found my brake bias to behave a little funny with the 28" tire and small rear brake combo. I cant say whether it was due to the proportioning system disliking the larger diameter or if it was just due to the change in rear piston surface area. I never really thought much about it, merely observed that it was occurring (over heating the rear brakes and compromising stability under hard braking).

Getting a 370z to hook up can be futile if you're stubborn about stance or ride height. If hooking up becomes a greater priority, it suddenly hooks up about as well as anything else IRS RWD.

Put on stock springs and shocks. You want the higher center of gravity because you want body roll (rear weight transfer). You want the lighter spring rates that accommodate weight transfer more. Get rid of as much negative camber as you are willing. More sidewall and lower tire pressure will allow you to maintain decent contact patch during suspension stroke when the camber gets real excited.

I have been using zero rear toe the last few years in my personal cars... I have no comment about that as far as how toe effects traction. I did it because I believe I was ruining drag compound street radials with excessive heat cycling from high speed highways runs; and getting rid of the toe to reduce friction/heat at least appears to have fixed the problem for me so far or at least extend the functional life of the tires.

Rolling on lowering springs, my best 60', using a 28x10.5 radial, was a 1.71. It was in a sea of crappier 60s and I dont imagine ever getting enough practice to replicate it on command. Using a setup more like I described above, Justins Z (on 28x10.5 bias ply slicks) could pound out 1.5 after 1.5, and occasional 1.4s, each and every one of them while babying the 100% stock driveline. There was probably 1.3s in there with an actually aggressive launch.

Hey Phunk how do you feel about running a 17 inch wheel with a 28x11.5 bias ply drag radial like the mickey Thompson ET street R. Do you think that will have enough side wall for a more cushioned launch? Or do you have any recommendations for just a FBO 370z setup besides going to a 15 inch wheel and slicks? I just feel converting to a 15 inch for a good size slick just might be a little over kill for FBOs and gearing but please let me know what you think....BTW I really appreciate your info on all this you seem to be the only one on this forum that has done serious drag racing in the Z

I was about to say that the ET Street R is a radial rather than a bias ply, but I just went to their website and see that the ET Street R is offered in both now, and both DOT... interesting.

I went through a set of 17" ET Street R (radial) on my SC'd Mustang. When they were NEW, they gripped like crazy. It would dead hook second gear at 815whp when they were fresh on nice concrete. Never tried them at low pressure with a burnout to see if first could hook. I'd imagine the Bias version will probably do a little better.

If I had to guess, that tire might be able to hold anything a FBO Z throws at it. So long as your suspension is setup decent enough, your tire pressure is dialed in, and your burnouts are good... Its probably plenty.

I wouldn't call my drag racing serious! I merely showed up with a twin turbo Z to a drag strip 2-3 times, and its been 5 years since I last did that. A lot of people tried taking a Z like mine to the strip over the years, and the crappy results seems to keep most from trying it again. The only extra step I took was to try the small brakes and big tires thing, and I had a little extra success with that (got the 1/4 record at the time, 5 years ago). I started to wake up about what had to change after that, but never tried it again. A couple years later when we were experimenting with Justins car was when we realized that the 370z really can hook decent if we stopped ignoring what the rest of the world always knew about slamming cars and trying to drag race them.

Well I did figure out that my camber is -4% in the rear :inoutroflpuke: after putting my coilovers on. So, I'm sure that was a huge part of my 6 second 0-60 runs.

I have been planning to bring it to the race shop so he can corner balance and we can talk over my set up for drag racing and normal driving. But, I am finishing up my build first! The intercooler and turbo set up add a lot of weight to the front. So, I need that done before we corner balance.

My R888r's come in tomorrow for my stock Nismo Rims (putting 305s in the back)(hope they fit:icon14:). I will be ordering some rims and tires for a drag set up after I talk to the race shop.

The tires will fit fine. I have RE11's: 325/30/19 on my stock wheels for the rear.

I forgot I said I would update this.

http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...5748251750.jpg

1.68 60ft
28x10r17 M&H bias ply slicks @ 13psi
1" lower than stock on Fortunauto 500 coilovers set to full soft
Launching at 5krpm with 4psi off the line, I had the rear suspension preloaded with the hand brake. I also have a line lock for the burn outs

The next race is on the 23rd. I have resigned myself to 4x4 status and will be raising the car up to stock height, taking it to the alignment shop and have them ratchet strap down the rear of the car to simulate the launch and go of as little negative camber as I can get away with while trying to keep the ride height camber below 0. I am hoping this, more boost and a psi or so less in the slicks can get me consistently in the 1.5's

Do you have sport brakes and if so what 17 inch rim worked for you?

Yep, sport brakes all around. I am using some Forgestars meant for the newer mustangs. 17x9.5 I think and 44mm offset. They clear everything just fine.