Brake Pad Compound - Same or different Front and Back
 

For track pads...is there consensus on using the same pad compound F/R or using stronger up front and less on back? I have run XP10/8 and see most run different compounds; however, several seem to run the same compound F/R.

The reason for my ask is that I am looking to switch away from CarboTech as I seem to continuously get brake deposits leading to heavy vibration. It was recommend that I try Hawk DTC-60....but not sure if I should determine a different compound for the rear.

I am also installing Stillen's 2" Brake Duct kit in hopes to reduce the deposits.

I welcome recommendations for track only pads and if they should be same or different compounds F/R.

I used both setup, I am thinking of going back to having same compound F/R, I think it will offer more balanced brake bias.

I think most people use different compound to trick the ebc so they will not get ice mode, specially if they didn't do yaw delete mod, don't know if this is the exact reason.

Friends don't let friends run Hawk Pads....gar.bage.

Raybestos here. ST47/45 combo. That is probably a lot more pad than you would want to run. Try ST43 (or 45) and 42 rear.

Same pad front and rear. I've never had a problem with the dreaded ICE Mode on a setup that isn't staggered except for one time and that was on the OEM sport pads. I've noticed that a lot of the drivers experiencing ICE mode run staggered compounds, I think that's no coincidence.

Got feedback from Sonny at 949 Racing on this, he says this isn't generally a problem for cars that don't have ABS systems. But running the staggered pads changes the brake bias and throws off the ECU.

Their fix was to either run the same compound all around, disable/remove ABS or play around with different compounds till you get something that won't trigger the Ice mode.

The Nissan ABS is a special breed of terrible. If you are not having ABS issues you are not pushing particularly hard. And when it fails, it does it with no warning and sends you flying off. I've had three abs units fail. If you touch the pedal after the module fails it will instantly lock the rears. You can't even pedal it because any pressure on the pedal locks em up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwbeT63mUnk - In case you are wondering why I kept my hands on the wheel. It rained 13" the day before and I wanted the car pointed straight so it wouldn't dig in from the side and roll.

...and the first time it happened. You can see the rear pass side locks up before you even see brake lights.

https://youtu.be/hu_25EPL6CE?t=176

I am not just getting ice mode, I am getting inconsistent braking at this point. I am going to replace everything and hope for the best

Not pushing particularly hard he says...lol

Now, I'm playing devil's advocate here but maybe...just maybe it's also possible that I'm doing a couple things different that is preventing Ice mode from engaging.

OR maybe im slow but am still managing to magically put down laptimes that are very respectable for an NA Z34 with coilovers, Nexen SUR4's, exhaust, test pipes, a diff and an uprev tune...oh and square brake pads .

Overwhelming any system in a car is not something any driver should strive for, but you make it sound like if I'm not doing that then I must not be driving hard at all.
I'm on the west coast so I havent run any tracks you've most likely been at to compare lap times, which I would totally be willing to do...assuming you have that data. If you have an Aim Solo Data logger you could always send me what you have from your fastest laps at Buttonwillow or say Willow Springs and we could certainly compare that way.

Look I could say the same thing about you if you've never caused your car to hit limp mode or fuel starve. Does that mean you're not driving hard?

Being smooth matters and so does conserving the car.


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No data from those tracks, but a different level of car prep so it wouldn't be that comparable. Car has aero, hoosier A's, Penske's, etc. Not an attempt to be mean, but the tires alone would make the data a moot point.

Also I would have kept my hands on the wheel too. You never let go unless you're about to hit a wall otherwise you're leaving it up to Jesus, right? No offense to anyone religious here but, I've got a bad track record with him and I don't think driving is his forte lol

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If I were going into a wall or the tires...I would pull my hands off. Seen too many broken thumbs and wrists from people holding on. Grass....nah. Just ride it out!

Agreed. Our cars are fairly different, not to mention a different chassis. I've got friends here running Z33s that are less built than yours but are running aero and race compounds and they don't have ice mode issues either.

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There is a reason that myself, Valkyrie, and some of the AER enduro teams have moved to the Teves Mk. 60 ABS stuff...it is a profound difference. And all of us basically had to weigh the cost of writing the cars off (replacing and running factory ABS), deleting ABS and spending or two getting the pad, prop valve, etc set-up (and be slower in the wet even when figured out), or spending the money on the Teves stuff....it is a no brainer after a while. The real ballers move to the Bosch Motorsport ABS. Big money there....

Going back to the original question. No on Hawk Pads Yes on staggered compounds in my years of trial and error.

Also...Eagle. Enter your lap times into the stickied lap time post. More lap data and times the better....

Some of my laps are already up there but they're mostly old and out of date. Sadly, I also think Osbornsm is no longer updating the thread.

I had a little pet project going before that sort of fell apart. It was called FAF or fastasf.com. It was basically a lap time database and we were beginning to grow and had collected a large amount of data from speedventures, POC and GTA. I'm thinking of bringing it back sometime this year and hopefully everybody can start taking advantage of that, to have a searchable and usable site for finding out who's the fastest.

Also I had no idea you are running alongside Valkyrie in enduros. That's awesome, I figured you were most likely a time attack or perhaps a spec z driver.

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I live on the other coast. I don't run with them. In fact, though the car is legal to run in those series, it doesn't. Mostly just TA/TT, but it rained every single event this year...so some added piece of mind in the wet is a bonus. Was just using Valkyrie as a similar west coast build for reference...;)

Eagle....are you running same or different compounds? I see Endless MX72 in your signature...

Both you guys are out of my league...but welcome your guidance on my next pad(s) to purchase for an Intermediate aspiring to Advanced group.

I'm running the same compounds. I've done that with the MX72, MX72+ and Winmax W5 on the Sport Akebono calipers. So far everything has gone well with that setup for me.

For intermediate to Advanced, the Endless pads are pricey but offer long life for pads/rotors, handle the heat well and stop nicely.

The W5's bite harder and as such you can rotate the car under braking pretty well (with good modulation of the pedal), are inexpensive but will not last as long and will eat up your rotors faster than the Endless pads.

My recommendation is to start with the Endless pads if you can afford it. If not maybe start with something like a Winmax W4 or something similar. Also don't skimp on the brake fluid, I've been running Brembo LCF and HTC64 and really like them. They handle high temps, dont boil over and seem to last a good while.

Can’t wAit yo try my winmax’s

The original post mention heavy brake vibration from break deposits. Personally, I chased a mystery brake vibration that would slowly start on The first day of a track day and just get worse. After years of chasing the problem I realized I just needed to change my hubs.

I just picked up some EBC red stuff for my fronts and rears. Heard good things about them. I'll be testing them out april 14th. I'm running z1 front rotors and oem rear rotors.

Maestro...where are you running on April 14th?

Gingerman Raceway, South Haven Michigan

Grid life?

3 balls racing April 14th and gridlife the weekend of May 30th