The YellowStuff's is head and shoulders above stock. The Carbotech's are above the YellowStuff's. The YellowStuff's lasted for about 18 trackdays, and about 18,000 miles. I'm still on the Carbotech's. They will sequel at low speeds. Like coming up to a stop sigh or red light. I also run Racing Brake 2 piece rotors. They are a different grade of cast iron then the Z1's and stock.

XP10/XP8 combo is way too much bite for autox (I ran them for most of a season). I'm running Ferrodo DS2500's on my SP car now.

What? You don't like your eyeballs stuck in the windshield? :rofl2: Autocross is not my forte'. I was hoping you would jump in with your experience on this. :tup:

Most likely all around. I will probably use the stock pads and see how it goes.

I'm on oem pads all around

My co-drivers and I have always been more than happy with the stock pads. I recently tried Hawk HP+ on my C5 and they are far too aggressive for autox.

Started the removal of the factory vlsd this week. I plan to take the rear end to a buddy to have him install the diff and transfer over the ring gear. I plan to fill the the diff back up with Castrol 75w90 for no reason other than its what I had. I plan to leave it in for the 1000 mile break in then switch to something heavier if I get too much chatter. I will have the opportunity to run the car with a local club in late October once the diff is in so it will be fun to see what kind of change it will make in an otherwise all stock z.

If you want to get into some Carbotech pads and not brake the bank :tiphat: I have a set of F+R AX6 pads I'd let go for $150 that only have two ax events on them. They have pretty high cold bite.

Which LSD you going with?

Is the stock VLSD that bad for track use?

The stock VLSD. Once it gets hot. It starts to act like an open diff. That's the why of diff coolers. After a while with repeated abuse from the track. The VLSD just fades away and doesn't come back. It becomes a one wheel peeler.

The gear driven LSD's are great until you lift an inside tire in a corner. Then all of the power goes to the lifted tire. Use any gear lube you like. Doesn't need the LSD additive.

The clutch type LSD, OS Giken and others. If you lift an inside tire. They will still send power to both tires. They are tune-able. 1, 1.5, and 2 Way. Plus percent of lock-up. You have to know what you are doing! But you have to drop the diff and pull the LSD to open it up and change things around. The Giken takes it'sown gear lube which is $70.00 per liter. And you need 2 liters. If you have a diff cooler. Then it's 3.5 liters. $$$$ The clutch type LSD's are more money too.

Good to know!

osg

:tup:
Use their gear lube. If not. It will act weird. Just ask Spooler. :rofl2: Mine has been smooth as butter with the OSG lube.

I don't doubt it. The instructions say to drain the fluid after 1000 miles and I don't plan on giving them $120 twice so quickly. If I die I die