Nissan 370Z Forum - Who's making the move to STU?

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- - Who's making the move to STU? (http://www.the370z.com/track-autocross-drifting-dragstrip/126272-whos-making-move-stu.html)

For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gomer_110 (Post 3848644)

For the record, mine are the slotted only rotors. I've heard too many stories regarding cracking from cross drilled rotors.

Mine are slotted as well for the same reason.

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Road course is a different animal. Z1 also makes blank replacements if you buy the rotors front and rear separate. For some reason the full kit only comes slotted, drilled or both

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan (Post 3848667)

Road course is a different animal. Z1 also makes blank replacements if you buy the rotors front and rear separate. For some reason the full kit only comes slotted, drilled or both

They added sprinkled!

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz (Post 3848668)

They added sprinkled!

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You're right! I forgot that is how they refer to it

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro (Post 3848462)

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.

I Just ran my car for the first time at Gingerman raceway. WOW! Love the way I have the car configured so far. Word of wisdom, don't use EBC Red Stuff for track use!! I made a huge mistake and they started glazing (melting) causing my car to shake. Car handled very well and after months of building, adjusting, tweaking...I think the car performed very well. The whiteline swaybar I added paired with my coilovers worked very well. I do need to stiffen my front coilovers a bit as I was rubbing in hard cornering. I think I will get an OS Giken diff next season (over winter) along with some racing bucket seats and a roll cage.

As for my pad issue, I spoke to a few people, I'll be making the switch over to G-LOC pads.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

Once the stock VLSD gets hot. It's done for until it cools down. Repeated high temps will cook the silicone fluid inside of it. Mine would go open after about 10 minutes of track use.

If you get the OS Giken diff. only use the OS Giken gear lube for it unless you like noise and strange behavior.

I have the RacingBrake 2 peice rotors. They are $$ but are worth it so far. On the 3rd set of pads and the rotors have never been cut or trued. :tup:

Quote:

Originally Posted by ///maestro (Post 3848462)

I'd say the right suspension setup would make more of a difference than the VLSD. From what I've read, the VLSD isn't "terrible" until it starts going, then eventually only 1 wheels spins at all times.

ALSO! I learned that my buddy went through TWO sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a year due to hairline cracking. Keep this in mind when purchasing new rotors, I'd steer clear of z1 2piece!

Even though my car only has 33k miles, my VLSD is likely 100% toast. If feels like a wide open diff on all my runs, even on really cold days.

I'm currently on Z1 two piece, as well, drilled+slotted. If I end up with issues with the drilled, I'll probably just swap to slotted or sprinkled, only.

Finally got to corner weight the car. I taught myself how to do it so i will most likely need to try it again.

Here is where I started:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/azgKwD21DfU5tjWR8

and where I ended up:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fSPqzW1wdasT7Apy9

On my next attempt I think I will try to have the fuel closer to race wight which is usually a half tank or less. I did it this time with a full tank since I saw multiple sources saying that you want to avoid corner balancing the car with the possibility of the fuel settling on one side or another. Feedback from you guys is appreciated. Everyone has been really helpful on the build so far.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zewerr (Post 3848732)

My buddy, Austin Hertel, went through two sets of z1 2-piece rotors in a matter of a few months (like 3 track days). Both cracked in the exact same spot. Z1 refused to replace the second set. He literally used up .011mm of the rotor when it cracked. I’d steer clear of z1 2-piece rotors if you track your car. Z1s “excuse” is that he used them in very cold temperatures lol.....

Video

In addition to data and a corner balance, I also removed the rear sway bar. I love it. The car has more rear end grip on deceleration and lift while still being able to rotate on throttle. It really makes me more confident in the car during higher speed maneuvers which should come in handy later this month at spring nats.:happydance:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan (Post 3851785)

Video

"**** yeah."

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zewerr (Post 3852274)

"**** yeah."

censored version unavailable*

It's okay. I had a similar reaction at the Pro Finale a couple years ago.

I just installed a wavetrac lsd in mine, I was a victim of overcooking the vlsd too many times. I have my ride height set at 26.75" floor to fender arch. Running square 285s re71s on 19x10.5 konigs, I had to roll front fenders for clearance/rubbing issues and I run a 15mm spacer in the rear.
What camber to you guys recommend, currently at about 3.3 degrees front and 2 degrees rear?