1st pic. The very top of the cooler.

2nd pic. Where I ran my grounds to. Still have to apply sealant over the area.

3rd. In the trunk, on the left side. There is a rubber grommet with a wire going throught it. This is where my wiring for the temp sensor and power wires for the pump and fan come through. This is the underside of that grommet.

4th, 5th and 6th pic's. Some pic's of my wiring. The wiring is in heat resistant wiring loom.

Notes on the install.

You have to use 2 crush washers on one side of the banjo fittings. The side against the cover. Because there is a relieved area around the ports. When you tighten down on the banjo's. The banjo body bottoms out on the raised area, not on the crush washer. Using 2 washers. The banjo body will seat on the crush washers now. If you don't do this. You WILL have leaks.

When turning on the pump for the first after filling the cover. The pump will be noisy until it starts to pump fluid. You can hear the pitch change.

The Z1 cover and diff cooler took about 2.5 liters of fluid. I had to go out and buy a new pump for the OS Giken fluid. That chit is thick. I broke my pump that screws onto the top of the container. So I bought a hand pump from the local Harbor Freight store for $7.00.



If someone is going to do this install the same. I have enough hose and fittings to make the lines for you, or you can buy the extras from me and make the lines yourself. You have to buy your own banjo' fittings and filter. I don't have them.

The pic is of the new hand pump.

This is a bit of a concern for me. I have bought 3 liters of OS Giken fluid for my diff also. It is 80w250. The first fill on my diff I used Motul 75w90. The diff operated normally. The 2nd fluid I used was Motul 75w140. I can say this, my car is stubborn as heck in the morning backing out of my carport. It didn't do that with the 75w90 fluid. Normally you would run thicker fluid if your diff is getting real hot. With a diff cooler, do we even need to do that? The diff cooler should take care of the diff/diff fluid running hot. Hmm, what to do. I am thinking about going back to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 diff fluid with an LSD modifier. I have been real happy with that diff fluid.

Starting at the 4:30 minute or so mark. The guy quickly talks about viscosity. With the cooler, yeah, I see why not to run a lighter lube. I'm going to do the break in with the Giken fluid. Then decide of what to use after that.

I talked with Dalean about it several weeks ago when buying my diff cooler. They always use 75w90 with a diff cooler. What sucks is I have 3 liters of OS Giken fluid at around 80 bucks a piece in the garage.

Don't feel bad. I bought 4 liters when starting this project. I didn't know how much the Z1 cover and MAM diff cooler would take. Still have 1.5 liters left.

I have the temp gauge installed. So I will know how hot the diff is running under different conditions.

I am going to use the OS Giken fluid. I have it, might as well give it a shot. I may like it. Who knows.

I shot Daelen an e-mail about it today. See what he says.

Also I ran into a little problem. When I went to mount my right exhaust can. Found out it was hitting the oil line from the bottom of the cover to the cooler at the front of the cooler bracket. So, I'm re routing the line. If I wasn't using the inline filter. It wouldn't be much of an issue. BUT since I'm using the inline filter. I have to do some more planning. Have some more fittings coming tomorrow. I'll post pic's when done.

Another thing Daelen mentioned in his e-mail. It's about using the banjo fittings. He said that they don't like to use them because they are more restrictive then a regular fitting. On the bottom of the Z1 cover. You have to use one because of ground clearance issues. On the side of the Z1 cover. If you use the bottom side port (fill hole). You can use a regular fitting. But if you want to use the top port. You either use a banjo fitting, or buy other wheel speed sensor for the left side and put it on the right side. This will put the position of the wires off of the sensor pointing down instead of up. Have to lengthen the wires for this to work. Doing this will let you use a regular AN fitting. I'm going to check into this at a later time. Just want the Z back on the road. It's been on jackstands since last July. :eek:

All done. Unless I get other ideas. :D

Other idea is to hard pipe the hose from the top down towards the bottom, and have the filter there.

To get the bottom hose away from the exhaust can. I had to reroute the line to the center.
1st pic. Shows the side with a hose strap to hold it in place.

2nd pic. Shows the top.

3rd and 4th pics. Shows the hose in the center.

5th pic. From the rear. All out of harms way.

Having a SpeedHut diff temp gauge installed. Watching the temps today. It's 40F outside. Diff temp went to 200F after about 20 miles and stabilize. Turned on the pump and watched the temps drop. Turned the fan on and the temps dropped even quicker. :tup: At an idle. You can hear the pump and fan. But soon as you get going. You don't hear them. My FI exhaust covers up their noise. :icon17:

The OS Giken diff is a bit clunky in operation at low speed. You know it's working.

Man that thing got hot quick.

It got hot quicker then I thought it would.

Where did you get your power from. I can't seem to locate it in the thread. Did you go straight to the battery or fuse box?

Main power from the battery to a relay. Control power. I spliced into the power acc port under the right side of the dash.

How did you go through the firewall? I am going to pick up my ACC power from the evap can wiring.