Nice set-up, I would suggest a wire mesh screen at the scoop to keep the rocks out.

That thought has crossed my mind a couple times.

Damn this thread lol

Got a couple of pieces for my gauges. A Z1 upper radiator hose piece for the water temp sensor, and a MPI piece for the oil pressure sensor. The threaded male end and the opposite end is metric. The 2 side ports are SAE.

My gauges came in. :D

Drilled the Z1 diff cover for the diff temp probe. The temp probe is a 1/8" NTP pipe tap. Used a "R" drill bit for the hole.

Couple of more pic's. :D

Have a question to those who have installed the SPL solid diff bushing kit with the Z1 cover. Does the bushings sit flush up against the cover or is there a small gap? Just eyeballing things up before the rest of my stuff comes. I installed the stud into the Z1 cover and sat the big SPL bushing on it. I have a gap of about 1/6".

Sorry guys. :( I'm going to have to mothball this thread until I recover from surgery on my torn bicep muscle. :shakes head: Figure about 3 months. Think it's going to end up a winter project.

Thanks Daelen, got the rest of my parts. :tiphat: OS Giken diff, Giken gear lube, carrier bearings and seals, stub axle, and AN-8 hose fitting. :tup: Now I just have to heal up to do this work. And that will take awhile. :shakes head:

Hurry up already. I need a guinea pig before I do mine. Better for you to learn the hard way and me have an easy time.

Couple more days and I will be done. Will post pic's too. :tup: What diff cover you using? Stock or Z1?

Z1 cover.


Reality is, it has been maintenance time for my truck. New front brake pads, rotors, driver's side unit bearing, and new Bilsteins all the way around again. They lasted 120k miles. Can't complain.

1st pic. The new OS Giken LSD is installed and the Z1 cover is installed. Ready to install in the Z.

2nd and 3rd pic's. Had to file down a section of the SpeedHut temp sensor plug for clearance on the sub-frame.

4th pic. Plug installed. If the boss in the Z1 cover was 3/16" towards the front more. I wouldn't had to modded the plug.

1st and 2nd pic's. Was told that I couldn't use the upper side port in the Z1 cover for the return line because of the sensor location. And would have to use the bottom, fill port for the return.

3rd and 4th pic's. Found a way to use the upper port. Used a banjo fitting. AN 08 x 18mm. x .150 with an elbow installed on it. The return line goes over the top of the sub-frame.

1st pic. you have to remove this heat shield. It's in the way of the plumping of the cooler and fan.

These next pic's are about making you own stainless hose. I got all of the fittings and hose from Jegs. The size is AN -8.

List of parts.
Need 1,
555-28012 | JEGS
Need 3,
555-110002 | JEGS
Need 1,
361-AT230308 | JEGS
Need 1. I got a 10ft lenght. 3ft would be more then enough.
361-410008 | JEGS
Need 1. This goes on the inlet side of the cooler.
361-AT812008 | JEGS
Need 3.
361-AT809008 | JEGS

The Banjo fitting come from Pegasus Auto Racing. These ain't cheap.
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=8754
Need 2,
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10034
Need 1 package, #3278-M18
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3278

I have extra hose and some fittings left over if anyone wants them cheap. :tiphat:



2nd pic. Making my own Stainless lines. Not hard to do. First measure your line. Tape up the area to be cut. The tape keeps the stainless from coming apart.

3rd pic. I use a die grinder with a 4" fiber cut off wheel. Makes for a fast straight cut.

4th pic. This is what your hose should look like after removing the tape.

5th pic. Installing the outer part. You have to use some force to get it where it has to be.

6th pic. Put hose lube inside the hose and on the inner piece.

7th pic. Starting to install the inner piece. This can be a bear to get started.

8th pic. Once the inner piece is started. Mark the hose with a Sharpie at the rear of the outer piece. This with let you know if the hose is moving out of position when you are screwing in the inner piece.

9th and 10th pic's. The end is finished, and the hose is finished. Ready for install.

1st pic. The diff cooler assy is installed. Here, you can see where the return line goes over the sub-frame from the pump.

2nd pic. Here's the return line going into the upper port of the Z1 cover.

3rd pic. Here's the inlet line from the bottom port of the Z1 cover to the cooler with an inline filter.

Gotta get the banjo fitting so I can plumb mine up the same way. I did get the kit from MA with all of the lines, relays, and a thermostat wired in. No switches for me, I am going to wire it to run the pump and fan when the temps hit the thermostat threshold.

I got one of the first kits MAM made. So, I'm in the dark on the plug and play wiring. They was talking about making the wiring kit.

Some more pic's.

1st pic. Diff cooler install finished.

2nd pic. The drain port banjo fitting. Here, you can see the 2 crush washers between the banjo fitting and the cover.

3rd pic. Hose clamp.

1st pic. The very top of the cooler.

2nd pic. Where I ran my grounds to. Still have to apply sealant over the area.

3rd. In the trunk, on the left side. There is a rubber grommet with a wire going throught it. This is where my wiring for the temp sensor and power wires for the pump and fan come through. This is the underside of that grommet.

4th, 5th and 6th pic's. Some pic's of my wiring. The wiring is in heat resistant wiring loom.

Notes on the install.

You have to use 2 crush washers on one side of the banjo fittings. The side against the cover. Because there is a relieved area around the ports. When you tighten down on the banjo's. The banjo body bottoms out on the raised area, not on the crush washer. Using 2 washers. The banjo body will seat on the crush washers now. If you don't do this. You WILL have leaks.

When turning on the pump for the first after filling the cover. The pump will be noisy until it starts to pump fluid. You can hear the pitch change.

The Z1 cover and diff cooler took about 2.5 liters of fluid. I had to go out and buy a new pump for the OS Giken fluid. That chit is thick. I broke my pump that screws onto the top of the container. So I bought a hand pump from the local Harbor Freight store for $7.00.



If someone is going to do this install the same. I have enough hose and fittings to make the lines for you, or you can buy the extras from me and make the lines yourself. You have to buy your own banjo' fittings and filter. I don't have them.

The pic is of the new hand pump.

This is a bit of a concern for me. I have bought 3 liters of OS Giken fluid for my diff also. It is 80w250. The first fill on my diff I used Motul 75w90. The diff operated normally. The 2nd fluid I used was Motul 75w140. I can say this, my car is stubborn as heck in the morning backing out of my carport. It didn't do that with the 75w90 fluid. Normally you would run thicker fluid if your diff is getting real hot. With a diff cooler, do we even need to do that? The diff cooler should take care of the diff/diff fluid running hot. Hmm, what to do. I am thinking about going back to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 diff fluid with an LSD modifier. I have been real happy with that diff fluid.

Starting at the 4:30 minute or so mark. The guy quickly talks about viscosity. With the cooler, yeah, I see why not to run a lighter lube. I'm going to do the break in with the Giken fluid. Then decide of what to use after that.

I talked with Dalean about it several weeks ago when buying my diff cooler. They always use 75w90 with a diff cooler. What sucks is I have 3 liters of OS Giken fluid at around 80 bucks a piece in the garage.

Don't feel bad. I bought 4 liters when starting this project. I didn't know how much the Z1 cover and MAM diff cooler would take. Still have 1.5 liters left.

I have the temp gauge installed. So I will know how hot the diff is running under different conditions.

I am going to use the OS Giken fluid. I have it, might as well give it a shot. I may like it. Who knows.

I shot Daelen an e-mail about it today. See what he says.

Also I ran into a little problem. When I went to mount my right exhaust can. Found out it was hitting the oil line from the bottom of the cover to the cooler at the front of the cooler bracket. So, I'm re routing the line. If I wasn't using the inline filter. It wouldn't be much of an issue. BUT since I'm using the inline filter. I have to do some more planning. Have some more fittings coming tomorrow. I'll post pic's when done.

Another thing Daelen mentioned in his e-mail. It's about using the banjo fittings. He said that they don't like to use them because they are more restrictive then a regular fitting. On the bottom of the Z1 cover. You have to use one because of ground clearance issues. On the side of the Z1 cover. If you use the bottom side port (fill hole). You can use a regular fitting. But if you want to use the top port. You either use a banjo fitting, or buy other wheel speed sensor for the left side and put it on the right side. This will put the position of the wires off of the sensor pointing down instead of up. Have to lengthen the wires for this to work. Doing this will let you use a regular AN fitting. I'm going to check into this at a later time. Just want the Z back on the road. It's been on jackstands since last July. :eek:

All done. Unless I get other ideas. :D

Other idea is to hard pipe the hose from the top down towards the bottom, and have the filter there.

To get the bottom hose away from the exhaust can. I had to reroute the line to the center.
1st pic. Shows the side with a hose strap to hold it in place.

2nd pic. Shows the top.

3rd and 4th pics. Shows the hose in the center.

5th pic. From the rear. All out of harms way.

Having a SpeedHut diff temp gauge installed. Watching the temps today. It's 40F outside. Diff temp went to 200F after about 20 miles and stabilize. Turned on the pump and watched the temps drop. Turned the fan on and the temps dropped even quicker. :tup: At an idle. You can hear the pump and fan. But soon as you get going. You don't hear them. My FI exhaust covers up their noise. :icon17:

The OS Giken diff is a bit clunky in operation at low speed. You know it's working.

Man that thing got hot quick.

It got hot quicker then I thought it would.

Where did you get your power from. I can't seem to locate it in the thread. Did you go straight to the battery or fuse box?

Main power from the battery to a relay. Control power. I spliced into the power acc port under the right side of the dash.

How did you go through the firewall? I am going to pick up my ACC power from the evap can wiring.

Through the big wiring grommet under the hood. After I ran the wiring through. I put rtv over the area to seal it.

I got my relay's in today. I am not sure I will have time to tackle it this weekend. The honey do list is long.

Up-date.

Getting ready to drop the sub-frame to install the SPL bushing in the sub-frame mounts. So I decided to drain the rear diff of fluid. Very pleased with what came out. No particles that I can see. The lube is dark, but not black. Pulled apart the screen filter that I installed in the line that goes from the diff to the cooler. Nothing in there either. :tup: Man.......that OS Giken lube is thick. :icon14: I'm going to leave it drain over night. Oh, there is about 2,000 miles on this lube since I installed the OS Giken diff and cooler. So it was over due for a change.

Can't wait to have mine installed for Zdayz this year.

Damn how often you changing the diff fluid?