Tie down points for trailering?
 

Figured the track guys would probably know best. When trailering the 370, where should I be connecting the tie down straps to the car? Plan on trailering the car for the first time in a week and just don't want to make any stupid mistakes.

We use tire straps and set the brake, haven't had any problems on either the Z, crossfire or any of the hundreds customer cars we move.

Look for oblong slots about 2-2.5" in length in the undercarriage. These can be used with T-hook straps (insert the T and twist 90 degrees). These slots are used by an array of vehicle manufacturers including GM and BMW during transport. Straps need to be very tight, any slack will create an impact loading which will bust the strap. With a manual transmission, leave the shifter in neutral and engage parking brake.

Did you just get this trailer? What kind of trailer?

It's an open Trailex aluminum trailer I'm borrowing from a buddy in order to get the car out to Solo Nationals in Lincoln. Unfortunately, I live in a condo so getting one of my own presents problems with where to store it when not in use.

I do that Same thing.

I normally do 4 points on the car, 2 around each subframe front and rear, then cross the straps.

Pretty much have what is in this kit:
http://pitstopusa.com/images/F57990384.jpg

Noob question, but why would you leave it in neutral instead of a gear?

That's how you ruin the tranny and engine if it falls off. Same reason why our cars should be towed on a flat bed instead of the other types of tow trucks.

Just plan to give yourself a solid hour to get it tied down the first time. There are a pair of hook points up front but the holes are tiny and your strap ends may not securely fit them. There's a single spot in the left rear but nothing in the right rear.

It is believed that there is a tiny movement (even with very tight straps and parking brake engaged) which translates to a minute back and forth movement of the pistons eventually creating a groove on the cylinder walls.

Leaving MT in gear or AT in Park puts hella-pressure on the gearbox teeth that are engaged or the locking pin in the AT the the extent even slightly slack tie-downs with a large enough jolt will fracture a gear tooth or snap the park-pin in an AT.

I do not even bother with leaving p-brake on.

I use a custom strap I had made on the front with the factory tow hook. It has a snap hook on each end, and then one other one that is in between the two, that can slide along the strap. I hook the front of the car up on the trailer, then let it roll backward to take up the slack. With the sliding hook, the car doesn't need to be exactly centered in the same place every time to have equal tension on both sides like two fixed length straps would.

On the rear, I use those j hooks in the factory tie down slots mentioned above. Takes me about 5 minutes to secure the car on the trailer.

Thanks for the input everyone. Hopefully once I pick the trailer up on Thurs. everything goes smoothly.

How did trailering go?

I had the same question before I went up to Wilmington. Up front, I ended up using the slots in the chassis and crossed the straps. On the rear I went through the wheel -- this didn't seem ideal. :eek: Two friends with tons of trailering experience assured me this was ok.

The straps you use work great, only issue is with the strap tight on the wheel and the car moving slightly it may take the finish off the rims, we use these for both autocross, 370z and crossfire.. as well as our business, which we transport every type of vehicle and truck.. just food for thought

Wheel Nets with a Heavy Duty 3,000 lb Break Strength / 1,000 lb Working Load