Jshvr I really want this, could you tell why you never installed it and is the kit complete I don't see the parts that go on you actual rear/wheels of the car...

If I remember right Jmac told me that the taps for each abs sensor was only required for the no lift shift on the analog version. I believe GTM was the only one able to get no lift shift to work on the digital version and they went out of business. This just hooks up in the cabin to the CAN and the injector pulse wires.


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I didn't install it on the car because I switched to ecutek for turbo reasons and paid an extra 600 for the traction control option on ecutek. If I were to install this on the car I would buy the 370z wire extension online and send everything to Jmac and have him wire it up. He is the Canada ecutek dealer. No dealer in the US knew how to wire it up.


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Black boxes are digital (CAN models). They are not capable of no lift shifting. That is why we made an analog kit (silver box). That is how you tell the two apart.

But these are going cheap and are availiable so you have to ask how much more you want to pay for no lift

Hmm so what would I need Jmac to get this running for just CAN
for LC and TC?

How much would it cost to go for no lift roughly?

He can tell you what wires. It's just too many wires in a bundle for me to trust myself to do it.


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Did you happen to make sure Jeff uploaded the 370 Rom to the unit. I am pretty confident he would have but should probably ask.

As for the wiring, you are looking at (going off memory here) $300 for the patch harness from wiring specialties. Probably another $50 in misc supplies, and 3-4 hours for wiring. Lots of crimping and going off diagrams if you are doing it right. Otherwise soldiering would be a lot quicker.

Yea he did!


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JJ's370z just purchased my unit


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Well i got it and the patch harness thanks again Jshvr JMac88, i guess this means i cant use either of these anymore?

Or does it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_POLtPn8pqQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8waA5spAy4

And for the life of me I cant find the DIY RLTC installation thread I was reading the other day, can anyone provide a link?

Thanks again

And if anyone else is looking for one there's not many around

happy to help i should be able to find you one as a couple of people will soon be swapping them over for more advanced syvecs units but if you really cant wait get in contact with Mark he's the director at Performance Car Parts, Engine Tuning & Motorsport Chassis Engineering he told me they're about to pull one out of a racecar this weekend and put it up for sale

he's happy to take offers

man you'd really want these guys working on your car Performance Car Parts, Engine Tuning & Motorsport Chassis Engineering they could prob give HKS a run for their money

You could have the RLTC in the center console if you don't want to take out your tablet!


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I put mine in the heat seats location since i took my seats out. I will take a look for the thread later, but keep in mind that was for the analog. You can reference the injector wires. I will take a look later and see which pins I used for power and ground on the patch harness. This made it true plug and play :)

I would also recommend using the included connectors. Since you are getting a patch harness, I used mine for hooking up to the knock sensors and other signals for my boost controller. Using the connectors will allow you to remove the RL without removing the patch harness if you are ever having any issues.

Also, do you have factory tire sizes? If not, you might have to contact jordan inovations to see if they can flash the software. You can send it up to me (I am in Canada), but that will be more expensive. Only the analog works with the public RL software.

ok thanks - running te37 sl in 19's slightly wider 9.0 to 9.5 front 245-255 rear 10 to 10.5 275 to 285. Did this matter? the 2014 oem's were 19's

ANd when you say "removing the RL if you have any issues" what issues do yo mean

Its the sidewall width that matters. There is a 5mm difference between the front and rears from the factory. If you increase or decrease this amount, the system with think its slipping. You can also increase the amount of slip to fool the system but this is the lazy way to do it, especially if you plan on tracking your car in wet weather (you won't be able to use the wet weather setting). The system is highly accurate, so the settings need to be precise. If you are at the drag strip and you drop your rear psi, you would need to adjust the slip or drop pressure in your fronts as well.

What I mean by issues is if the system ever fails. Lets say you spill coffee on your adjuster and it fails, ect...its a slim chance but you never know what might happen. I like things to be easily removable for emergencies.