To your weight point, most cars still run over a range fine and its buried in the manual. Fuel efficiency will go down a tad with heavier weight oils of course hence the push for 0/20 amongst the 4 banger fuel sippers of the world.

M-1, while blasted on BITOG.com for meh results by oil snobs, has been a solid product for a very long time. Reformulated? Sure a few times. But 350K+ combined miles on 3 cars I have owned in the last 17 and it did perfectly fine by me (including a dozen or so UOA's). Sure group 4/5 oils are very nice and if I really wanted to run 10K+ OCI's I would spend more for a PAO based oil. But I don't....and 6mo/7500 mile while in warranty means the 'cheap stuff' works just fine.

I am using the PU in the Z based off some good UOA's I have seen and to try something new. Honestly M1 0/40 Euro is one of the most well rounded blends out there as well and I would consider using that as well...and simplify my garage oil storage system (zee german car we recently got takes it).

Based on how I drive, I can use every MPG aide I can get...so 5/30 stays in the Z. :D

- b

IMNSHO
Take everything DEpointfive0 said and dial it back a notch for the average daily driver. Everything he said is spot-on if you want to squeeze every last bit of longevity out of your engine (or you are an obsessive Chemist heehee), but how many are going to keep their Z for 10-12 years?
I put it in the same category as the does-downshifting-wear-out-the-drivetrain-faster question - running less than perfect lubrication/driving habits decreases the life of the engine/drivetrain slightly, but it doesn't do enough damage to really matter (as long as you are reasonable about it).

Once the warranty runs out, I plan on using a full-synthetic and a high-quality filter with changes at 6000-7500 mile intervals. Just about any modern, name-brand oil will do a great job, but I think synthetic is cool. I wouldn't be afraid to run a top-quality petro-based oil, but would shorten the change interval to 4000-5000.
Probably overkill, but I can be a bit obsessive, too. :)

PS: I change the oil/filter in my pickup truck, but not the Z. The car is too close to the ground and I don't want to mess with that shield. Well worth the $20-30 just to avoid the aggravation and I don't have to buy ramps.

Still can't tell you how much. Went to pay and they said "It's on us". :happydance:

It's what's recommended by Nissan and I'd like to preserve my 8 year warranty with them. Is this good enough reason to continue using 5W30 ?

I posted that just for argument's sake, if you used 0W30 or even 5W40, I doubt Nissan will really deny a warranty claim, but I think it was designed for something, and that's what should be used...


I have an 8 year warranty and cherish having it, lol...

As long as you prove you have done oil changes, even at YOUR house (by showing receipts for buying oil/filters) they won't turn you down for warranty issues...

I think you only need to show receipts usually for the last 3 oil changes if you do them outside the dealershit

one year since last oil change and one thousand miles driven !!! Crazy winter (car was in the garage for 7 months) and I'm ready to get the Z on the road again. When I looked at my odometer I noticed I only put 1,000 mile this past year. So my question is should I change my oil ?? or should I clock another 2,500 miles which I will be doing this summer for sure. Thanks for your response

This fact make me nervous cause i buy the Z as an collection car. In my city the street is horrible so i also feel bad while the rock destroy my Z

run metal to metal just after leaving it 1 week ? Now i have another reason to start the loud engine everyday :roflpuke2::roflpuke2::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Im gonna try some 40W oil next time around.

i only put a few thousand miles on my Z as well each year. i only change the oil once a year in the Spring using mobil1 silver cap 5w30. :) you can get a 5qt jug at walmart for like $25.

sure beats paying $90 for the same oil in japan. :ugh2:

For those that do low miles per year. Be sure to get oil temp at optimum levels and get rpms high occasionally. We all know short hop driving is not good.

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I use PYB/Nissan Filter (Insane Moly levels) and change it at 3750 or earlier if my schedule forces me. I like changing the oil myself, I get under the car and really look at it. Mine is a DD in FL heat with many stop and go lights....in FL you spend a LOT of time at traffic lights. I realize I could use Synth tier 1 any brand but then I wouldn't get to change the oil as often!
I know, cheap thrill.

Same here . I drive mine just for the sake of it not DD. Put 4k miles since April 17th.

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Mobil 1, 5w-30, with a filtermag is the way to go.

Mobil 1, Wix or AC Delco filter, change at 5000 miles (as Nissan recommends).