The CMC and CSC are separate elements within the clutch system. Replacing the CMC has no impact on the condition of the CSC. Your CSC and CMC currently have XXXXX miles. If you replace just the CMC, the CSC still has however many miles on it. It could last a while or it might fail the day after you replace the CMC. As has been mentioned, there is no real warning before the CSC fails.

If your CSC fails first, then it is smart to go ahead and replace the CMC at the same time. You are already having to spend a lot of money on CSC labor, so the extra cost for the CMC replacement is peanuts in comparison. It doesn't make as much sense the other way around (like your scenario). If the part is covered under warranty, they will only replace whatever part(s) has(have) failed.

Oh ok, that makes sense. Just sucks to think our cars are like ticking time bomb with these problems. I'm still a little paranoid about the steering lock mechanism failing on me one day, but I like that extra security since there have been cases of theft in my area in the past #becausenyc #newyorknewyork .

its really not. just go easy on the clutch pedal...and for you, stop messing with the engagement point would be a good start considering you know so little about the clutch system...? :confused: just point it out..

The ESCL is easy to disable. See link in my sig.

The ESCL is not going to stop (or even slow down) anyone that wants to steal your car. They'll bring a flatbed and winch. Joy riders are going to pick a car that can be hot-wired in a hurry.

That's why I replaced my CSC prior to it failing. I didn't want it to fail on me out in the middle of nowhere with no traffic and no cell service. Same with the ESCL - pull the fuse and no more worries. It probably wouldn't stop a good thief anyway. Do you actually engage it every time you park? If so, I bet it's getting more prone to failure each use.

If you put miles on the car, they are. I am easy on the clutch pedal. I probably could have gotten 60-80K miles on the CSC before it failed. But I have no idea when it might fail. So I just used that as a good excuse to upgrade :icon17:

if you track the car your rear diff bushing will also do a EW aka explode~! :icon17:

:rofl2:

My car has 6 total track laps on it from two years ago. Rear diff bushing just blew out last month at 55K miles :eekdance:

Oh... and the rear differential bushing is NOT part of the drive train in case anyone was wondering :icon14:

Stupid Nissan :shakes head:

yah, 6 hard track days will also accelerate your csc's life... i know i would be going for fast shifts on the track which will result in very high pressure for that tiny cylinder.

... this is about when FPenvy comes in to chime in about his slushbox superiority....:ugh:

lol not days... laps... as in like 15 minutes total on the track :icon17:

That's only drag strip threads :stirthepot: :icon17:

the hell were you doing 100000000000x shifts in 15min? :icon17:

he made sure to include roadcoarse, street, drag, yo mama :tup: :ugh2:

The engagement point was adjusted once only when I got the car by my mechanic friend. There are no issues from that. If you don't mind lifting the clutch half a foot between each shift then that's fortunate for you. Lower engagement is preferred by most people imo and makes it easier to feel for the engagement.

I take it easy most of the time on the clutch except for some hard pulls with power shifting, and clutch kicks when drifting here and there. No slippage yet, but I'm guessing there's maybe another 10-15k left in the clutch.

hint... i depress the clutch all the way in during a shift, but my foot is completely off the pedal after the shift.

i think you got some odd habit going on there...

as do i. what is weird about my "habit"?