It's internet information. Take everything with a big grain of salt. I did a Google search for him and posted the results with a link so he could come to his own conclusion.

Personally, I installed a 34 row thermostatic oil cooler because I don't wan't my oil to attempt to break down due to heat.

I use the "inferior" m1 5w30 with no oil cooler for the last 5yrs driving street.

No issue for me. I don't intend to change oils either.

While I don't consider those tests to be authoritative in any way, I think they do indicate that, in the real world, there's just not that much difference between high-quality lubes from a DD POV. Some test better on one factor but not so well for another. Your filter will probably make more difference than which high-quality oil you use.


FWIW, high-90s yesterday and I took a back road home. About 20 miles of S AR county road. Some spirited driving* but oil temp never got above 235. Temp back down to ~220 shortly after I turned cruise-control on. Back up to about 225-230 when I hit traffic. Stock '09 (no cooler). If I did that on a regular basis or for extended periods, I would have bought a cooler but it really doesn't seem to need one for the way I drive.

* Not that hard since IAT was over 100 - mine reads 6-7 high - and ECU was limiting things, but I'm selling the car this week and wanted to have some fun so I wasn't babying it.

"Inferior" oil, eh? I may try that next oil change instead of using 'thrifty".

I needed the oil cooler even before the track. Uphill seems to really work the engine at high rev.. I have still seen 260 degrees even after the oil cooler installed but I was at the track and it was nearly 100 degrees. Could not get it higher that day. I usually change the oil before it is time too.

All good info. Thanks to all of you! I feel better after reading that 220 is normal in city driving situations

based on UOA's m1 5w30 is pretty much an inferior oil nowadays. its on the thinner side of a 5w-30, and tends to shear down to a 20 weight relatively quickly. along with the shearing, the longevity of the oil is shortened. look at any of hte m1 UOA's and you'll see the TBN figure to be on the low side prior to the 5K mark.

although, as long as you change at the correct interval, and dont mind an oil that shears to a thinner weight, yes, most oil will be the same. if you want a better m1 5w30, go for the "extended performance" bottle, which has much better qualities

I see normal operating temp of 200 on my '13. It's got the stock oil coolant system and the larger pressurized radiator overflow tank. I see 220 with spirited driving on mountain roads. That's the highest I've seen it go so I have no need for an air to oil cooler. Nissan's fixes seem to work for me. Of course I don't track and live in the PNW where 85 is a hot summer day.

thanks for the info chops! :tup: ive used the extended performance in the past, but i could tell no difference... :eekdance:

my G's been running m1 silver cap since about 3k miles. 10yrs old, oil changed only once a year, 34k miles
she still sounds and runs like new. i only put like 3-4k miles tops each yr. same deal on my 15k 5yr old Z.

I just came back from Vegas about 2 weeks ago.

Cruising at 80mph,

With the AC off, I was able to maintain the temperature between 200-220.

With the AC on, it was reaching 240 [however, with the lowest AC setting, it didn't exceed 225-230].

As I posted here (this general topic comes up regularly):

2014 Z here, and driving like I stole it at every red light, I see 220 the most.
Highway driving, with hard pulls, I see no higher than 200.
Seems to me, Nissan fixed the problem.