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yah, especially if the tech lives 26miles from the dealership, round trip is like half of that 112 miles.
lessons learned... never trust the dealer. :ugh2: |
They went out doing errands on your car. As they are not allowed to use their courtesy cars I learned a while back. Instead they use customers cars. Next time install a GPS tracking devices which maps and logs distance and speed.
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Yeah most ppl here learn how to fix their own cars.
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I honestly would not go back to that dealer. Keep an eye on the car, and find another dealer for future service needs. |
Get UpRev and tune your car professionally:tup:
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This weekend i cleaned the MAF's and inspected for leaks on the aftermarket intakes. Did not find anything significant.
Drove the car yesterday both morning and afternoon with no limp mode. Drove the car this morning and afternoon with no limp mode. I finally ran the gas down to the point of -- range just to get a fresh start other than dealer filled gas. Topped off the tank with 93 from BP and left for home. After about 10 miles of highway and 2 miles of 45 mph the car went into limp mode. No CEL, no difference in my driving. It got me thinking that perhaps it has something to do with a full tank of gas. I know that shouldn't make a difference but it is the only consistent thing at the moment. I drove it two more times this evening and was not able to reproduce the limp mode. I will see how tomorrow goes as i'll be putting 50+ miles on the car. |
150 miles later and the car has not gone into limp mode. 65 miles ago the SES light came on and i read the code as the same P0300. The light has not gone out as it did the last time it came on. I'll be calling the Nissan service department tomorrow morning to see what they want to try next. The worst part about this is the car runs perfect other than the high idle associated with the P0300.
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Its your CAI causing the problem. Put back to stock or get it professionally tuned. Bringing it to Nissan won't do anything except destroy your car.
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Heading back to the office after lunch the car seemed to have no power. If i gave it more than 1/2 pedal, the SES light would blink. It felt like severely retarded timing. Hopefully when i get back in it to head home it won't be the same or my drive home will suck.
I bought the car with the short ram intakes so i do not have the stock pieces. Should i order stock parts or a name brand CAI? Any professional tuners around St. Louis, MO? |
Even with the best name brand CAI u will still need it tuned. Your Z is sucking more air than fuel ratio causing it to act up throwing CEL.
It will run fine most the time however your ecu will act up temporary at moments at a time. Im sure there is someone in St. Louis that can help with your tune. |
do a wtb for stock intake in the for sale section. no need to buy new.
im sure there are plenty of folks that dont use their stock intake boxes. |
Also if you want to go back to stock, buy from here in the used section. Do not buy full price from dealership:icon14:
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I will be getting rid of the short rams soon. I did some data logging on the drive home for work today to get a baseline before i make the change.
I don't have the ideal ranges handy for this car but if someone does please let me know. Ambient 82*F, 38% Humidity, 30.04" RPM Min = 0, Max = 5,275, Average = 2,234 Intake Air Temperature Min = 95*F, Max = 138*F, Average = 106*F Coolant Temperature Min = 183*F, Max = 214*F, Average = 192*F Catalyst Temperature Min = 651.2*F, Max = 1126.4*F, Average = 989.6*F MAP Min = 11.60kPa, Max = 181.37kPa, Average = 36.11kPa MAF Min = 1.91g/s, Max = 185.07g/s, Average = 22.68g/s The Max MAP seems wrong as i would actually be boosting at that pressure? I'm certainly not boosted. Would this be caused by the SRI's or is the sensor going bad? Also, as noted elsewhere on the forums, this is more evidence that SRI's suck hot air ALL of the time. |
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