Originally Posted by mcphelps (Post 2765143)

With my fuse gone, the car is sometimes slow to respond to the start button being pushed. I've read other posts claiming the same thing, so I wouldn't say it doesn't effect anything. Once it's started, everything is fine, though.

Originally Posted by 4r3s (Post 2765251)

I replaced the battery in my key fob and this symptom went away for me.

Originally Posted by saber (Post 2765256)

still happens to me every so often. put the key in the fobgina and that goes away.

Originally Posted by 4r3s (Post 2765251)

I replaced the battery in my key fob and this symptom went away for me.

Originally Posted by fountainhead (Post 2764926)

hi zack,
i've got an 09 also, and i pulled my fuse and no repercussions at all.
To post a reply to a persons answer hit "quote" in the message you want to reply to.
Welcome to the forum!

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 1775597)

:D Another satisfied customer here!

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

1. Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
2. Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
3. Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
4. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
5. Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
6. The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
7. There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
8. Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
9. Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
10. Change the car from ACC to OFF.
11. Put the cover back on the fuse box.
12. Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
13. If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
14. If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
15. Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
16. Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
17. Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
18. Re-install the battery compartment cover.
19. Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!

Originally Posted by mcphelps (Post 2765143)

With my fuse gone, the car is sometimes slow to respond to the start button being pushed. I've read other posts claiming the same thing, so I wouldn't say it doesn't effect anything. Once it's started, everything is fine, though.

Originally Posted by ZackMorris (Post 2766867)

thanks again to everyone for taking time to answer. pulled the fuse last night and everything went smooth. didnt notice anything different upon startup. WHats the point of the fobgina you all speak of if the car will start with the key in my pocket

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am (Post 2765998)

I pulled mine ages ago and just had it replaced under warranty. I have yet to re-pull the fuse, and the car is as slow as ever to start. It actually seems to not start on the first push more often. Odd.

Originally Posted by 4r3s (Post 2766924)

I wonder if it has more to do with the age/charge of the car battery? Not really sure that makes sense though as I am still on the oem battery and don't seem to have this delay.