Will do.

So I guess that's a "no". A multimeter can verify the BTJr is maintaining voltage according to their float curves. It could be you perceive the BTJr to be working but really leaving it off would make no difference. Do you start your car during storage or do you rely solely on the tender? And if you don't start your car at all during storage, how long is it stored for? I'm not trying to prove you wrong/be antagonistic here, I'm trying to figure out the answer.

Good advice right there. I have never used a JR, always the Tender Plus on a number of vehicles without any trouble.

As someone said, I would first verify the parasitic draw with nothing attached, put a digital MM between positive lead of battery and the positive battery cable with the amps on meter set to highest scale then work your way down till you find a readable range. Don't use a clamp on meter unless it has range in the 100's of milliamps. Usually quiescent draw is in the low milliamps. This will tell you the quiescent current draw at rest.
Then I would measure the voltage at the battery terminals after the 'lil tyke charger has been connected say, overnight. If the voltage is within tolerance, I would have to assume some other problem exists.
Lets face facts here, you need voltage and amps to crank the car. If the car doesn't crank easily either you have not enough volts or amps, it's that simple.
(Considering your statement that the car cranks normally after a period of time).
If you were feeling REALLY energetic you could measure the current draw of the 'lil tyke battery charger into the battery when first connected, and then after overnight. See if the current draw is over the device rating.

Take your battery out of the car or just disconnect the negative terminal.

Could be a combination of the JR and your older battery/parasitic draw. The JR's lower amperage design isn't really intended to charge a battery, but rather "top it off" and keep it that way. Give the Tender Plus a shot, or try one of the many other brands with at least 1amp or more. I personally run a 1.5amp Schumacher maintainer.

Nothing is an option. I've done it every year. Mustang GT for years, S2000 for 6 years, Z for 2 years. I haven't had to charge the battery once. Never replaced the mustang battery, replaced S2000 battery in year 4 or 5, still on factory Z battery.

Don't start the car for a few minutes, it won't do any good. Either let it sit the entire 4-6 months or start it and drive it enough for all fluids to come up to operating temps.

well the battery is showing a healthy 12v+ at all times. it's really the cca that tells if a battery is good or not. for that, you can't just use your multi-meter.

i dont start the car at all during the 4-6month hibernation. :)

Hibernating
 

I would think it might be better to drive them around (if possible) to keep the tires round and the gaskets good at least once every 6 weeks even if you can't get out of 2nd gear.

Plenty of people in this very thread seem to disagree.

:icon18:

you have to do it in reverse for full effect. otherwise, tires dont round completely going forward in the cold.

btw troyz- disclaimer is that, that was a joke. (just wanted to make sure)

To sum up........ the Z is ingenious. It's quality work. And there are simply too many "electronics", that's all. Just cut a few and it will be perfect.

So I ran my little experiment. Jr was red for a couple hours, then blinked green, now steady state green (see pic 1). I think you may just have a bad Battery Tender. Can you try it on another battery?

Refer to pic 2 for a properly stored winter Z :)