hmmmm crank and cam angle sensors eh?

i've taken all 3 out and cleaned them before - but this was a while before i was having this 3500rpm ceiling issue. I took out the crank sensor as i was having issues with my syncrorev-match being a bit sloppy (felt like i could rev match better). At the time, I cleaned off some black particles on the sensor tip which i believe is clutch dust. SRM definitely became more accurate after that, but i have to emphasise that it wasn't a huge caked on amount of dust but more like a few splatters.

Both cam sensors appeared visually fine. Wiped down with a rag and refitted.

Wiring loom for crank sensor appeared fine without any excessive strain or tension on the cables. My only concern noted was proximity to the RHS cat and the heat affecting the wiring and sensor. At the time, i wrapped the wiring with exhaust wrap and a bit around the sensor also

Wiring going to both my cam angle sensors appears to be under quite a bit of stress. No idea why Nissan made the looms so short. A few other sensors' looms are stretched on my engine too (one MAF and the left side throttle body loom. Both of which i relieved by unclipping them from the nearby component).

elia_ebyss - get that joiner replaced ASAP. That's a lot of unfiltered air entering your engine. I bet you would have idling instability because of that leak. It would most definitely throw off your tune and afr. quick fix is a long suitable hose connecting the rocker cover to the intake pipe.

i have pretty much the same problem, except i dont experience a hard fuel cut. I just get an extremely sloooowwwww ramp up. It will redline but i'm more likely to run out of road before i reach 7500rpm. But it does feel dead around 3500rpm so getting it beyond that takes effort. This is with my foot to the floor. It's like having a fat passenger in summer with the a/c blazing, heatsoaked engine and trying to take off quickly.

I do have datalogs during my most recent experience of the issue - it's in my own post. Something stood out to me today - intake valve timing solenoid duty is normal vs a log when the engine was normal, but cam angle in relation to crank angle was very different. Still no code was thrown. I thought the ecu had the ability to detect incorrect cam angle vs expected angle?

Could it be my intake valve timing solenoids? Since the duty requested was fine but the cam angle shift was not.....

So I finally took my car back after 1000k miles of driving. The prognosis is I need an engine.
:eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:

Luckily this is covered under warranty. Phew!

what were your symptoms?

For those who r wondering what these codes represent ill explain their trouble;

P0451 Evaporative emission control system pressure sensor range/performance.

P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected.

P0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction.

Good luck resolving ur issue.

This happened to me once, within a month or two or purchasing the Z. It was so random I really didn't know what was going on. I was at a light, slowly turned left when the light turned green, then it happened. I tried to accelerate quickly but the engine just wouldn't rev. Luckily the speed limit in Guam is 35 (yes, 35) so I was still moving with the flow of traffic. I drove the car to my destination, about 10 miles away, then parked it. A half hour later, I started it up and it seemed like it never even happened. It wasn't particularly hot that day, just the normal/average temperature for the island. It didn't happen for another 6 months. I'll get the CPS checked on my next oil change.

My symptoms were not being able to rev pass 3500rpm on a cold start. Once the car was warmed up it ran fine 90% of the time.

I finally got my car back the engine was replaced. The short block was replaced to be precise. The service tech told me that the problem I had was common with G37's this was the first he had seen it with a 370.

Now I have to drive another 1k miles to break it in.
:driving::driving::driving::driving::driving:

i have the same problem with my 09 370z. This started two weeks ago when i was leaving work and getting on the highway, all of sudden it wouldnt let me rev pass 2500 rpm and the check engine light turned on. My car was towed to the dealership that night and they changed the valve timing control solenoid. I got my car back the next day, drove it for one day and the problem came right back the day after. Took the car to a shop and the mechanic scanned the car and got the P0021 code( camshaft variable timing control). He suggested that i bring my car back to stock(my car was uprev tuned) if the problem comes back then take it back. Any suggestion for me guys greatly appreciated.

Holy thread resurrection Batman!!!

Looks like limp mode. Mine was a dirty MAF sensor. Dealer wanted $100 to replace but I just bought MAF cleaner for $3 and used a can. Good as new.

This is a shaft sensor problem, it's dirty, it's moving around, connection loose or bad, or faulty, which one I dunno, take em off one by one and inspect it under good light to see if anything broke has a crack in it or dirty, also check each pin on the connection wire pull on it see if it comes out, reconnect and check all the connections for cracks or looseness. Look inside the hole where the sensor goes and check to make sure you see metal is clean that it's reading. Also make sure everything is tight.

Check the TB as well
GL

Not so fast my friend!

I have the same issue now. Going to start with mass airflow sensors and work my way up to camshaft position sensors.


Very very annoying. Just got her the way I want and now shes all tempermental.

Could be one of the fuses for the brake lights.

I’m having the same problem with mine. I cleaned my throttle bodies and replaced both MAF and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The car still won’t start. It’ll try to crank but won’t actually fire up. I have no idea what the problem is. Any of you guys have any thoughts? My next step is to take it to Nissan but I know they’ll come back with some stupid price.