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Get some aggressive gears, it won't add any power but you'll get into the powerband a lot sooner and it will definitely help 1/4 miles. I should note that your HP estimates are a little high. When compounding bolt ons you won't get as much HP typically advertised numbers are compared to stock cars.
Headers, exhaust (true dual), intake, gears, manifold for more mid range grunt and tune. I would guess on a dynojet this puts you somewhere around 320whp which is just about the peak of what you can squeeze out of an NA Z. |
Did someone give the OP a magic ball that will tell him exact hp's he will get with parts? 1+1 does not equal 2 in the mod world. Some mods don't increase power but makes your car faster. 2 piece rotors, light weight forged alloy rims, flywheel, pulley's, they all make power the same way... A diff will put power down better on any road, straight or curved. An M370 intake manifold will not give you a pretty hp number, it doesn't make more than stock. It makes more power under the curve. Stop focusing on a pretty number and focus on the delta. It's the only number that will speak the truth, not some random dyno a manufacturer posted. Shoot for 50whp over your baseline if your looking for a realistic number. If you don't understand, there is a wealth of information on the forums and on the Google...
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If you read everyone's posts, your logic is the butt of jokes. At least a few of us tried to help. I'm all for your motivation to mod, but it would be in your best interest to not insult people who give you accurate advice. You think all those mods and numbers are going to equal a 100+whp improvement? So I say again, 1+1 does not equal 2. And to save yourself some time, nearly all aftermarket exhausts will make similar power as the other. Same for cold air intakes. HFC's come in 200 and 300 CEL count, 200 is less restrictive. PPE and Fast Intentions are the only Long tube headers available. Every shorty header isn't worth it except the Momentum headers. Motordyne intake manifold only gives mid range power with minimal loss up top. No need for ignition amplifier, the car uses direct ignition. No need to grounding kit, you car is new. Pulley's make 5-7whp. And buy yourself an oil cooler. Looking at your previous posts, Whiteline sway bars are preferred over the hotchkis by most, The twin supercharger kit is going to cost you $14,000+ install not including supporting mods. The stock LSD sucks. SS lines, new pads, rotors, and fluid, your brakes will be boss. Unless your building the bottom end and/or getting exhaust cams, there is not much else to know about NA mods. Welcome to the money pit. |
For the most part Firehawk is right. The reality is that the vq37 is pretty much forced to the limits out of the box. You can get some power out of losing the stock cats and exhaust and a tune will help assuming you have all the bolt ons for maximum gains.
An oil cooler IMO was the best mod I did after the GTHaus Exhaust because it allowed me to drive the car hard without going into limp mode. Good luck OP but don't be surprised when the gains are far less than you're projecting in this thread, your numbers are overstated. |
also as firewark started, this starts getting expensive pretty damn quick AKA "welcome to the money pit"
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Increase quantity of oxygen per unit time consumed
Or Increase the efficiency of the combustion |
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Agreed with firehawk. Your numbers are waaaaaaaay optimistic/unrealistic
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and their just numbers. AUC and rotational mass are going to matter more.
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with all that being said, is TT the way to go? how much TT add weight to the car? thanks!
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