Weird clanking noise from exhaust i think please help
 

Just got Stillen exhaust put in and I hear a clanking noise please help o yea the instruction said move silent damper from oem to new Stillen exhaust and the instruction mentioned that there is 4 silent damper but the mechainc said only 2 where found? does anyone have a picture of the silent damper. and also when i was parking my car i look out the passenger window and saw smoke is this normal?

Your passenger side window was smoking???

no not the window i just saw white smoke coming from that side out side the car

People have talked about a weird burning smell from non broken in engines, and most claim that its normal not sure about smoke though. Could be it, not sure.

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...ing-smell.html

maybe well ima see later ima go drive it again

I wonder if the exhaust is hitting the crossmember and making your clanking sound.

is it not suppose to? im not sure wat a cross member is ill ask the mechanic tom

just got back from the mechanic he didnt have time to see me today to many ppl does anyone have a picture of the cross member so i know wat im looking for. if it is hitting the cross member how do u fix it

If it's hitting the crossmember, you'll need to show this to your mechanic, see what he says, maybe have him call Stillen as well for further information about it, they may have recommendations on getting it to fit right.

The smoking thing is normal for newly-installed exhaust components for a brief time. You use an anti-seize paste on the bolts in the exhaust, and there will be some of it leftover exposed (on the exposed end-threads of the bolts, or on the bolt heads and flanges, etc), and it will slowly burn off and give a bit of smoke off. Should be gone after one good long drive, or a couple days of very short trips.

do u have a picture of the crossmember

which one is the cross member so i can point it out to the mechanic thats its not suppose to hit it http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../under370z.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...under370z2.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...under370z3.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...under370z4.jpg

can someone draw an arrow on the picture and point out to me sorry im still learning parts and stuff

The wide black slightly shiny piece of metal going across on the left side of the 3rd picture. The exhaust makes a Y-shape just above and behind it.

the burning smell could be from a not yet broken in engine but the smoke i have no idea. i never had any smoke, just the smell

okay i took it back looks like im either gonna hit the cross member or the sway bar. to low i hit the cross member to high i hit the sway in back? what do i do

okay i fix the problem myself. i rented out a lift and did all the adjusting myself stupid exhaust shop rushed everything so it wasnt set right. only cost me 3 dollars to rent the lift and tools

o quick question to anyone is it possible to over tighten the bolt that with a torque gun. i think i might of gotten carried away with using it and paranoid that the bolts wasnt tight enough. should i try and losen these alittle or dont worry about it. im wondering if i crush the metal peice where the exhaust is adjustable in the front near the cat i kept torqing the **** out of it

Yes, you can in theory over-torque an exhaust flange, especially with an air wrench (which what I assume you mean by torque gun). The primary concern would be that you overtorqued one side before the other side was sufficiently torqued, which might warp or bend the flange. Stillen's instructions should have the correct torque values, I don't recall them offhand. In general this stuff should be done by hand (as should all tightening, and then use a torque wrench to get the correct value if necessary. You really only use an air wrench for loosening things in most car applications).

All of that said, unless you went really crazy with the air wrench, you're probably ok. If it's not leaking, just leave the bolts as they are. Loosening and retightening could make things worse if you've already overtorqued (like cause gasket failure). You did use anti-seize compound on the bolt threads right?

no i didnt i dont even know wat that is(anti-seize compound). only thing i use the air wrench on is the 2 bolts in the very front holding the exhaust up. the bolts that u can adjust. im worried now i might of went alittle crazy on the air wrench. heres instruction on which bolt
10. Tighten the bolts and clamps from the
front to the back making sure the
system is straight and clear of the sway bar
and cross member. The front bolt holes at the
catalytic converters allow for some adjustment
for this. The flanges on the mufflers should be
tightened last AFTER checking alignment of
the exhaust tips to the rear valance.

i wonder if im gonna be able to take those nutz off or if it warp the metal. its been 4 days now. i wont be able to barrow a lift till the week end cause thats only time there open

Anti-seize compound is available at any auto parts store. If you don't use it, eventually (many miles later) the exhaust bolts will pretty much weld/rust themselves into place and will be very difficult or impossible to remove without cutting them.

Also, the gaskets burn in to some degree, getting thinner and sticking to the flange metal as they get heated by the exhaust. In my experience, the type of gaskets the aftermarket companies are using (Berk, Stillen) can't really be re-used once they've burned in. By that I mean, if you go and loosen those flanges again, the gasket may not reseal when you tighten it back down, so you need to have a new set of gaskets on hand if you do that.

Well like said only thing I'm worried about is the front bolts holding the exhaust up cause of the air wrench.

how will i know if my sway bar is hitting my exhaust? i look under neat and theres about half an inch space in between them. will they hit each other if i hit a bump or pot hole? i move the exhaust up more so the exhaust dont hit the crossmember but now im worried about the sway bar

Has anyone wrap the crossmember with heat shield to stop the clanking