best floor jack for working on front and rear of 370z
 

I just got around to doing a little maintanance on the 370z where it required me to remove the front and rear wheels.

Basically the rear of the car is easy to jack up with just about any floor jack, under the rear differential.

But the problem comes when you do the front, neither my craftsman 3 ton floor jack or cheap small floor jacks will allow access to the hard points, either behind the front wheels or under the engine with out hitting the cars body etc.

Even a low profile $129 goodyear alloy jack was low enough to get under the car , but it wasn't long enough for the jack to gain access to lifting points.

My question , have any of the you found a low profile , long reach floor jack that will allow access to the jack points on the front of the Z.

So far I was forced to use to factory jack to lift the front.

Mine is a low profile jack (5" tall). Perfect for working on the Z, front and rear. Although, I don't own the Z anymore.

You can drive the car on a piece of wood that's 2 or so inches tall and that will let you get the jack under there np.

The wood plank idea is a great idea!

If you have jack stands, you could jack up either side and put the jack stands in that way.

It takes a little longer, but it's an alternative.

yeah with our cars you need to drive up on the wood planks, then any low profile jack that is weight/length capable will work.

I have an Omega Jack with a long arm and only 2.5 inch saddle height. Bottom-line pricing on Omega 29023 at ToolTopia.com

I picked up a long reach low profile floor jack from harbor freight for $129 , must weigh 150lbs. and I'm making 2 cheap wood ramps from home depot.

Actully a small scissor jack modified with a small 3" diameter steel plate on top and a larger base plate attached , would do the best lift for the front as you wouldn't need the ramps.

I found a larger scissor jack that only has a 4.75" folded height that would work great, with a large top and bottom plate, but sadly, it was only meant for height adjustment on RV's and Mobile Homes, the problem was the screw or gear reduction , didn't allow it to be used as a jack, you could only use it once the trailer was jacked up by a real jack.

It sicks that you can't get a large quality scissor jack anymore, my brother has one from the 80's that is a exactly what you need for lifting a car like the Z

Because they are down right dangerous. They have a very small base & can be tipped over too easy, especially when raised to it's limit. OP has the right idea with the listed jack. Low profile, high lift & very stable. Always use jack stands or ramps once lifted to desired height.
:tiphat:

This is the jack I thought was being talked about.
It is very good with the attributes I stated earlier

Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_12170.jpg

I use these after driving on a piece of wood.

RakJak™ 2-Ton Car Air Jack - GEMPLER'S

:icon18:

i like woopie copuishions too but i thought we were talking about jacks...:stirthepot:

^This.

I have this jack as well, and it is absolutely the best money spent on a jack, bar none. Yes, it is a harbor freight jack, but I have had one for over a year, and it works as smooth as butter. I have not seen a lower profile jack than this one, nor one that lifts as high. Pair this jack with a hockey puck for jack point protection, and you are perfect.

:icon23::roflpuke2:

The older heavy duty scissor jacks had very large bases and at least a 3" x 5"
saddle for secure lifting, also if your lifting by the frame you only need lift the car high enough to get the wheels off etc. Then support if with jack stands or wood solid blocks, we used to use old railroad ties, when the railroads upgraded the tracks.

I have this jack and its great! Its been solid through many projects on multiple cars. Ordered from Harbor Freight.

Also an owner of this jack and it does a great job.

If you have buckets of money just sitting around you could always get this:
Dannmar: MaxJax

Hmmm, liking that low profile jack...maybe when I move and have an nice garage.

Right now I have some regular Goodyear hydraulic jack, I need to use the stock jack first to get the car up a bit, then I can slide the other jack under

I just got done making the wooden ramps, from 2 x 10 planks, pretty simple and they work great, I can even slide my standard 3 ton craftsmen floor jack under the front cross member now and I may not even need the new low profile jack.

Ramps are made from 1 qty - 2 x 10 x 50" long with one beveled edge and 1 qty. 2 x 10 x 36" long with one beveled edge and 1 qty 2 x 10 x 4" wide piece as a wheel stopper.

Place 36 " plank on top of the 50" plank leaving 14 inches for the front wheel to engage the first level and place the 4" wide wheel stop at 36 inches from the start of the ramp, then simply screw everything together with 2 1/2 " wood screws.

Repeat the same steps for the second ramp and materials list.

Will post pics sunday.

Very nice thread!!! Where's the best place to put the OEM jack in front to lift the car? Thanks

Your supposed to use the notches on the frame rail for proper placement of the oem jack pic 1 front , pic 2 rear

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/n...-picture-3.jpg

Thanks Triple.:tup:

Bringing this back up.....

For ppl with the HF jack....do you still need to use woork plank before you jack the car up from front and rear?? The jack is on sale now for 79.99. Looking to get one if I don't need to put the car on ramp before jacking the car up.

Even the HF low profile jack can't get the front of my Nismo without some additional assistance. Sides and rear though the jack is all I need.

I think you are looking at the wrong Jack, This jack never goes cheaper than $129 normally $150 The one I'm Talking about Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack & the one your thinking of Floor Jack With Rapid Pump®, 2.5 Ton Heavy Duty Steel Get the lower longer more expensive one & you will have no trouble if you use the side jack points. I am lowered on Swifts & have no problem with this jack. I also use this with the jack.
http://protechproducts.com/image/cac...ad-210x165.jpg Sidelift Jack Pad - MODEL #1006

Wooden ramps and my milwaukee hydraulics 40 work fine. :confused:

Bringing this back...I am looking for a new jack.

What is the different between the one mertioned on top and Floor Jack With Rapid Pump®, 2.5 Ton Heavy Duty Steel

The 2.5 ton one looks cheaper and better

That's what I do then use jack stands.

Read 2 post up ;)

I have the 2.5 ton jack. I am lowered on Swifts and it easily clears the side skirts.

Watch your junk mail or advertisements in various magazines for Harbor Freight ads too. They often have coupons for 20% off which helps on a $140 jack.

Unfortunately, the fine print on those coupons state that floor jacks & numerous other items are exempt from the discount :shakes head:

I have this very one got it with the discount and it works perfectly.

Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton, Rapid Pump® Jack

This jack has by far the longest neck at the harbor freight store. I love this jack!!!

:iagree: Anyone looking to get it though be warned, it's heavy as hell.

I AGREEE! The jack barely fit in the back of the z lol.

I just bought a "race jack" from Harbor Freight" and Jack Point Jack Stands. They are expensive, but are well worth it. Only takes a few minutes to get the car in the air.