I have a 2009 auto and it makes a beautiful sound like yours when I am coming at a complete stop from almost any speed... ESPECIALLY if I am in manual mode, when it shifts down to 1st, I feel/hear a loud clunk

At the three above posters... REALLY? I always have used shims in my past cars and my dad NEVER does (on the same cars), and I have never had an issue either way...

REALLY??? Maybe I'll check that?

If they blow you off and you need someone higher up at corporate in consumer affairs, shoot me a PM... I had a problem with my 09 Maxima's brakes not working and they KINDA sucked, but the guy I finally got too was AMAZING, and I even became friends with him... (Just be amped up when you talk to him, he's a fast talker)

DEpointfiveO, thanks - I'm supposed the hear back from Consumer Affairs by this Thursday, so I'll know more then.

Everybody, I appreciate your feedback. Hopefully this ends on good terms with Nissan. I really love the Z, so it's been quite frustrating.

Not normal at all... Good luck! In for the resulting cause....

Really..... It all depends on the calipers and the type of brake pads used. Mine was the lack of shims and I know that for a fact. Install new thick pads with no shims, no sound. Wear down pads with no shims, got sound. Install shims (no other changes), no more sound.

Update - I heard back from Nissan Consumer Affairs today and was told that there's nothing they can do. Apparently they really do not stand behind their products.

I've seen posts here regarding brake pads/shims. I only have 4500 miles on the car and the brakes/pads are the OEM.

Anybody have any suggestions on how I can proceed?

My car doesnot but used to. What I did was took it to a repair shop, in New York sissions auto body is great but not from other states and they had the car for a few weeks and they took the whole rear end off and replaced it with a newer models rear end. I advise u do this.

i'm also going to vote something with the brakes.

if those are the OEM pads, that's not how the rotor surface should look.
if it's possible, do a full bed-in and see if that helps.
just dont come to a complete stop during or after the procedure. instead, head for the motorway and drive for 5-10mins to cool down the brakes.
You will need to predict the lights and brake very gradually to avoid coming to a stop. if you must stop, use the handbrake to hold the car.

secondly, if i roll (forwards or backwards) and yank the handbrake up, it will make that sound in the video.

thirdly, OEM pads shouldnt vibrate or groan when you let go of the pedal slightly. they release quite smoothly and without noise.
to me, it looks like some material on the rotor surface that is affecting the performance of the brakes. similar to when you wash your car and hose the wheels, create brown rusty deposits on the rotors and back your car out. the brakes are super sensitive for the first couple of light applications, then return to normal.

My 2010 doesn't make that noise.

are you guys braking hard? i always hear a distinct clunk when i press the brakes pretty hard. its just the ABS doing its thing i've always assumed. only happens when i brake quickly to a stop. ive taken apart most of my suspension/brakes and theres absolutely nothing wrong, and therefore doesnt even bother me anymore

woops, didnt realize this thread was a year old haha

I have a 2010 Z and it makes the same sound when i shift from park or if i speed up slow down. it is very annoying nice looking car but a lot of clicks, clanks and rattles.

that sounds more like symptoms of the dreaded axle click since it occurs to you when you load/unload the rear axles.
it sounds most like a metallic clicking noise but that's the most i can say without hearing it.

if it's really bad, it will click every time you accelerate and let go of the pedal, and also going from a forward gear to reverse and vice versa.
should be able to hear it driving next to a kerb with the windows down

i've eliminated all my cabin rattles.
i have tried to fix my axle click problem, even following the FSM but i think the torque spec for the nut is insufficient. currently have the right side done up to 115nm, left side is on the factory spec 105nm.

dude take off ur wheel, start tighening all the nuts and bolt, do not over tighten them just look for the one that is loose check all of em, on brakes on knuckles, on suspension might be undder tencion but it should be farely loose, and look for bad bushings that are worn also must be changed am shure u will find something. Gl:tup:

I also with a 2010 have a noise as this started at about 30,000 does it also by engaging and disengaging the clutch at low speeds I am bringing it in on Monday.
I believe it is from play in the splines