Crush Washer?
 

So I finally did my first oil change today at 1775 mi. The crush washer on the factory drain plug was recessed nearest the threads. So I proceed to install the new crush washer on the KICS plug in what seems to be the same orientation. Is this right or does it matter? Of course I start thinking about this after I've put the new oil in and reinstalled the 900+ screws in the plastic cover. :icon14:

http://www.the370z.com/members/needf...-dsc-0507a.jpg

Thats right. Larger radius side to the block and smaller to the bolt. You should be able to look at it from the top and still see the flange of the smaller radius side as the OEM one is in your picture.

That drain plug looks awefully aluminumy - if that's the case I'd put the flatish side on the face of the bolt.....

The way you have it is correct. There's a little notch on one side -- you thread the plug into the side with the notch. It's kinda idiot proof, actually. Hard to tell from the pic, but the way these washers are designed, it 'naturally' goes on one way. I'm curious though -- why didn't you use the washer that came with the plug? The KICS washers ship with its own crush washer.

The KICS washers looked like ordinary flat washers. The crush washer I ended up using came straight from the dealership. Here's a pic of everything I used.


http://www.the370z.com/members/needf...-dsc-0493a.jpg

^haha just like AK :P

... so is that drain plug aluminum then?

It didn't feel light weight when I installed it. But then again I'm sure the magnet insert is heavy. Can anyone on this board read the Japanese writing on the package?

It looks anodized and as far as I know you can only anodize Aluminum... so if it is I wonder how much you can crush the copper washer before you strip the aluminum threads

So, as semtex asked, why not just use the washer that comes with the plug?

In fact, even if you don't use the magnetic plug, why not just switch to a flat nylon washer (like many cars have) that can be re-used at each oil change? Is there anything that sacred about the copper crush washer?

Copper O-Ring
 

For those that DIY oil changes, whenever you replace the copper o-ring on the drain plug, do you have a hard time getting it to go all the way down? Most of the time, it will go down to the second to last thread, but not completely down to the bottom of the bolt? :ugh2:

Sounds like you need a bigger hammer.

that's fine. once you tighten the bolt and oring washer would be crushed and sit flush. make sure you put in the oring washer correctly.

yup everytime...it will crush into place

How are you placing the copper wash on the drain plug?

I used the nylon washer and have had NO issues. I don't see what the big deal is that washer must be copper. It's ironic that Nissan would insist on a copper washer but yet still uses failure prone Clutch Slave Cylinders on their Manual transmissions.

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I don't use any washer and have no issues. Awhile back I just installed a valve and was done with it. Also a side note magnets don't seem to do much, from the start I did UOA for all my oil changes and over the course of 7 changes iron levels did not drop off any more quickly then the norm.

i rather re-use the old washer vs not using any. no need to add unnecessary wear from friction.

You can reuse them for years. The issue comes when the copper washer get's scared from dirt or the friction over the years. You just need to inspect it and be very clean at every oil change with the plug and pan surface. The copper washer acutally goes face up on the drain plug. Twist it on the wrong way and it will not bottom out on the plug.

If you remove enough metal to make a difference in 100 oil changes (300,000 miles) to weaken the structure......:wtf2:

yah, i just replace it each time. why not, i have a bunch of them already.

i suppose you can go commando if u want. i prefer to do it the normal way...especially knowing that surface should not be scratched by the plug.
hell go ahead and use ur pliers to remove your lug nuts. im sure it can be done.

It's visegrips on the oil drain plug. God I have seen a many.

yeah.. same here. they are very cheap.

I think the real purpose is that the washer would crush and provide proper seal when torque to factory spec. You may have to tighten down more with an already crushed washer and I have heard people stripping the oil pan from too much torque on the drain bolt.

what am i looking at here?

Looks like a Fumoto oil drain valve.

aka a Qwik Valve. Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™

wow!! fumoto vavle! how come i never knew!

+1 rep when im not daydrinking and using tapatalk. Or however that goes. Just got an instant answer while performing first oil change on new Z.

If ur reading dis pray i dont regret this greddy magnetic drain plug

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If you twist it on you can get it right to the bottom..but it yea second to last thread is pretty much right there. :tup:

There is the right way and then there's the service manual way. ;) Note Image at top left. *1 and note C. Where 'C' is stated as oil pan side.

Attachment 121466

So what's the torque on the Titek Magnetic plug? and Can I use the Nissan Copper washer with it?

Z1 says 17 Ft.lb for theirs, so I think that's probably be good for Titek. (since both are aluminum) I'm thinking even 19 Ft.lb would be ok.