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To qualify for a government student loan you need to have two things 1. No BAD BAD BAD credit IE Collections/Bankruptcies 2. A pulse |
what are the rates at banks now??...like TD
you have like no credit history....it's always going to be hard to get the 1st loan for a car or house....the 1st one always sucks big time.....check the banks or just get one of ur parents then...not a big deal !!...or save up the cash and then buy it. |
Hell I have 1 paid off house on my record, 8 cars, 1 current house, and 2 credit cards all with perfect records and Nissan almost denied me. The only bad mark I have on my credit is from Pacific Palisades which is a fraud company and I am currently disputing the mark. The reason I was almost denied is because of my credit score which is about 640. The reason my score is low is because of my American Express card and AMEXs reporting habits. THey seem to always report the high on my AMEX but they never report that its paid off every month. I use my AMEX for business and sometimes I put over $50k a month on the card so it makes my score low because it looks like I have high debt when in fact the card is paid off every month. But if you look at my credit history you see it is stellar.
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Thats strange that the bank wouldn't accept due to your lack of credit history alone given you have a good job and down payment. When I was 23 (I'm 26 now) I bought a house with barely any history at all and got a good rate. All they required me to do was to put more than 20% down for the house. A car should be even easier.
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^^ Nissan Finance denied him....not the banks
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their decision to deny you makes COMPLETE sense. would you loan someone with no history of paying back large sums of money (student loans DON'T count in terms of credit history) tens of thousands of dollars? i certainly wouldn't. having said that, don't give up on a great car like the Z just b/c you're pissed that your app was rejected. look for alternate financing and pick up the Z!! :tup: |
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(added this after I read what I said.... This was not to sound mean just the way you can read it) That’s wrong. A House (Mortgage) is probably the EASIEST form of credit to get especially in Canada and even more before the credit "crunch" Reason = Mortgage is fully secured to an assets that will not depreciate but will increase in value. A bank is more guaranteed because the home value will not decrease 25% the first time its "driven" |
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Revolving credit (credit cards) Non-revolving credit (bank loans, payment history w/ bills) With credit cards, they look for revolving credit history first, then non-revolving, then compare that with debt-income ratio, how much available/approved debt percentage you're using, and current assets you have in the bank. Then they determine how much they'll approve you for, and the APR. With a car, primarily they look at non-revolving credit history, if that's favorable they look at your debt to income ratio - combined they come up with an APR to insure they get their money's worth for loaning you the money to get the car, JUST IN CASE you default - so they can cover the expenses of collecting the car. The higher the APR, the more likely/earlier they think you'll default. In addition to those checks, they also do the ones mentioned with credit cards, however, since cars are a titled asset, and the title itself is securing the loan, tyically it's easier to get approved, and will typically have a lower rate than a credit card. |
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I bought my car on my credit card! You should have seen their eyebrows and eyes rolling. Quite funny if you ask me.
Now I have an additional 31,000 points with AX for more toys. ;) |
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:bowrofl: :bowrofl: i hope you can pay it all off on the 1st invoice received...lol
19% or whatever gangster rate they charge will rape...:stirthepot: Quote:
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Debt Servicing Ratio (TDS) This number takes your Gross income then divides it by your debt. The general approval is 40% and under. Sooo Simple numbers... I have a $10,000 a month income and a loan that I pay $1,000 per month. My TDS will be 10%. However I can afford a payment of up to $4,000 per month. You can break it down yearly, monthly whatever... |
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Don't feel so bad. That's just the way the economy is these days. Congrats on being a pharmacist though. Maybe if you offer to down a significant portion that would help you out. I was in the same situation you are at now a couple months back. I'm a new physician, with 200k worth of student loans. Checked credit score on all 3 branches and the lowest was 730. Other's were around 760-770. Still got something insane like 8% because of lack of work history and all the other mess they spit at you. I also had to bring in the good ol pops to cosign. I say if you really want the car, just bite the bullet and either: 1. down something like 30-40%, or 2. just get someone to cosign. I'm thinking banks would try to rape you, they sure tried to with me. Good luck
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R u fkng serious?
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What kind of info did you give to Nissan Motor Acceptance? You say that your bank pre-approved you for 18K without even knowing your monthly financial situation. You had to have provided Nissan with your monthly earnings and indebtedness in order for them to do a complete inquirey for you. You make it seem as though your bank will give you the keys to the vault, and all you have to do is give them a little info. Whats the problem with going through your bank?
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I have no idea how much information my bank has, but I did deposit a lot of money in that account, and I do a lot of business with them. No, I didn't provide nissan with my income. They never asked for it. Besides, I thought it would show up in a credit check anyway. My student loan does show on the credit history, it shows the maximum I owed and what I owe now. It does not appear to show the timeframe in which I paid it off however. If I do provide nissan with proof of income will they cut me some slack? Anyway, I just had an idea. I need some advice. What about leasing the car and then buying it out? I mean, if I dont get a good finance rate, why not lease? The equivalent apr for lease at nissan is 6.9% (or do I need a good credit history for that too?). Additionally, interest is only on the depreciation, and not the whole cost, unlike a loan. And by the time the lease is up I would have saved much more than enough money to buy it out. Unless there are hidden costs or something else I missed? I really don't know much about leasing |
why lease and then 6.9%...unless you want to return it at end of lease...
check the banks 1st for a loan...u're already pre-approved for 18K....just try to get approved for some more |
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I'd be glad to get a finance rate at 6.9 |
truth is, i am financing at 6.9 % with Nissan Finance...lol
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