Issues
 

I have a 40th Anniversary Z that typically is a garage queen (it has less than 3,000 miles on it). I normally start the car every few months if I don't drive it for an extended period of time. A couple days ago I tried to start the car and nothing. I decided to purchase a battery tender to keep the battery charged in the future, but now I can not get the car to jump start when hooking it up to another vehicle (2010 Mazda 3 and 2008 VW R32). The car just won't turn over and the driver side window will not respond at all. I have attempted jumping the car back to back days and no luck. Any thoughts? Is there some safety override that maybe I am missing...?

Does anything happen at all when you push the ignition button? Are there any warnindg lights (like the "key") on?

It barely acts like it wants to turn. The red key was on at one point on the dash. The little screen also shows that the clutch needs pushed (which I am doing).

So you are getting some kind of reaction from the engine when you push the start button, right?

This is correct.

This is starting to sound like a bad battery.

Any chance at charging a bad battery or is it hopeless?

I assume batteries are a non-warranty item as well.

Batteries are absolutely warranty items.

:confused:

What is confusing? Failed batteries in the warranty period are covered.

When you say "absolutely"... I believe that the battery falls under a different warranty term like the tires, unless is made by Nissan.

Remember the car is 2 yrs old so the warranty of the battery might not be 3 yrs like the car.

I see where you are going with this, but I have never heard of a battery not being replaced, if bad, during the warranty period.

Looks like under 24 months is 0% owner cost.

https://owners.nissanusa.com/content...ty-booklet.pdf - page 43

There you go.

Well some items on the car like battery, tires, brakes, etc. can fall under the Wear and Tear Terms...

It will also depend on the dealer.

Just what I said, not the same as the car warranty. Under 24 mths and the car depending on the month that was bought could be close. Hopefully he get it replace.

Thanks.

I bought it July 3rd, 2010... So we will see what the dealer says.

I think the reason you cant jump it because of

A: the battery is dead (which is a given)

B: it is so dead it is not helping the other car out with the jump. You need someone to be in the other car reving up ever so slightly, like to around 2k if not barely higher then trying to crank yours. If I was a gamblin man I would bet on that that it will crank then. Once cranked if it does, let it run for a long long time to see if it will hold a charge from the alternator. I am thinking since you dont run it long enough to charge up what you take from the battery on the initial start you have drained it unknowingly.


Try B and report back. I have had to do this more times then I got fingers and toes to get a car to start.

A battery that has been badly discharged may not come back. Have you left the Tender on the car for 24 hours? It should be a low amp charger (about 1-1.5a) which, if the battery will take a charge, should get it up to 100% in a 12-24 hours. I have a Batter Tender brand trickle that I use on a motorcycle in the winter, and have also used it on cars that have sat (or had interior lights left on for a few days which nukes the battery nicely :)

Agreed on a deep discharge jump: typically can't just let it idle (unless it happens to have a really strong alternator). Load the car a bit to provide more jumping juice and see if that helps.

- b

I should have mentioned while jumping the car there is someone in the other car revving it to 3,000 RPM or so.

The charger is 1.25 Amps. I hooked it up again last night after unsuccessfully trying to jump it again after getting back home.

I learned about this when I bought mine. There is an extended storage switch that could save you the headache. Find this switch in your fuse box and pull it out about 1/4 of an inch when it is garaged.

Don't take this the wrong way but letting such a car just sit is blasphemes IMHO :p

Thank you so much!

I agree with you.

Battery tender showed 100% charged and my father brought over his HD truck and it started right away. Driver side window will not roll up though.

Remove the battery and take it to most any auto parts store and have them test/charge it. If it is good, you are back on the road again in an hour. If it is bad, then take it to the dealer, but the kicker is, it may have to be in the car and towed back to the dealer. I tried taking just the battery back for warranty to a GM dealer and was told that I needed to have my vehicle towed in, so they could check the charging system to find what was at fault. Just the clock and preset memory will kill a battery cell in time. Especially when the summer heat comes into play too.

:iagree:

Charge It!
 

A battery "tender" is meant to keep a charged battery topped up with a trickle charge. You may need a full charge from a real battery charger. I have had a perfectly good battery run out of juice from sitting idle for a few weeks. After a few hours charge...bingo! it starts and runs with no further problems.

Try that before buying a new battery.

Is there a window reset? When I open the door in drops down the normal inch or so...but it doesn't go back up when the door is closed.

Here is the reset procedure, you need to do it for each window.

http://www.the370z.com/exterior-inte...procedure.html

Service Manual page PWC-7
 

INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect battery negative terminal or power window switch connector. Reconnect it after a minute or
more.
2. Door switch is OFF (close).
3. Turn ignition switch ON.
4. Operate power window switch to fully open the window. (This operation is unnecessary if the window is
already fully open.)
5. Continue pulling the power window switch AUTO-UP. Even after glass stops at the fully closed position,
keep pulling the switch for 3 seconds or more.
6. Initializing procedure is completed.
7. Inspect anti-pinch function.
CAUTION:
When initialization is not complete, power window UP does not operate while door is open.
CHECK ANTI-PINCH FUNCTION
1. Fully open the door window.
2. Place a piece of wood near the fully closed position.
3. Close door glass completely with AUTO-UP.
• Check that glass lowers for approximately 150 mm (5.9 in) without pinching piece of wood and stops.
• Check that glass does not rise when operating the power window main switch while lowering.
CAUTION:
• Never check with hands and other part of body because they may be pinched. Never get pinched.
• Check that AUTO-UP operates before inspection when system initialization is performed.
• Perform initial setting when auto-up operation or anti-pinch function does not operate normally.
• Finish initial setting. Otherwise, next operation cannot be performed.
1. Auto-up operation
2. Anti-pinch function
3. Key cylinder switch power window function
4. Automatic window adjusting function
5. Auto-up, manual-up does not operate when door is open

PO, Did you resolved the battery issue?

I have not. I am now trying to get the battery out.

Well I got the battery out and took it to the dealer last week. They tested the battery and stated it looked fine, but couldn't tell with out the car present. I put it in the car and it was still completely dead. Looks like it will be going to the dealer anyways.