Is getting a '13 Nismo Z over a '12 really worth it?
 

The new '13 Nismo Z comes with red calipers (which are available separately), satin/black finished wheels (power coating solves this problem), new sound system (who gives a **** about sound when driving), and GT-R brake lines (negligible IMO).

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy a 2012 and just get the calipers put on and get my rims power coated black? I mean, what else do you get that makes it worth paying closer to sticker for the car and not being able to take advantage of the 0% APR?

red calipers... money
powder coating wheels... money
sound system... some people care?
brake lines... an upgrade is an upgrade

I guess the question of whether it's worth it falls on the buyer.

The 0% will lower your monthly payments but the car will be more expensive overall. Tough choice but if you can get a decent rate and price on a 2012, go that route, imo.

No, the 0% is only available on the '12's and you can get a '12 Nismo for invoice. This would be cheaper than getting a '13 since dealers will not sell a '13 for invoice and Nissan is not offering the 0% for '13 models.

Full set of red calipers will cost $1000 and a good powder coat job won't exceed $750.

So do it. Who are you trying to convince? Once the 2012's are off the lots, you won't be able to get this deal. But I bet you'll get the same deal on 2013's around this time next year.

Only thing I'd consider is that a '13 will be more attractive than a '12 when you eventually sell/trade it. If I saw a 08 car w 50k and an 09 with 55k I'd choice the 09 under the assumption of additional model year features and bugs worked out.

Otherwise go with the cheaper one.

The Nismo is not worth it anyways.

:stirthepot:

:drama:

true. And there is no 43rd anniversary.

:stirthepot::stirthepot:

I like the wheels on the '13. If you're on the fence and like the stuff on the '13, then get the '13. You'll just end up wanting it later and probably spend more...not to mention the time involved.

:iagree: for the most part... It's a base sport with a body kit/rims and a worse ride quality. (yeah I know it also has chassis dampeners) (I'd mention the catback, but you usually change that anyways...)

Really depends on the price difference. Stainless steel brakelines will still be an upgrade and would only cost a lil over $100.
Brake and wheel color is purely cosmetic, although I do think more people are wowed by red calipers and gunmetal gray wheels. But you don't see those when you are driving, so is the sound system upgrade worth it?

Depending on what rate you would qualify for on a 2013, you'll save $2000+ on finance charges buying a 2012. I'd expect to be able to buy a 2013 within $1500 of a 2012 by September..

So it is almost even money in my book. The savings on a 2012 are offset by the 1 model year depreciation on the 2012.

U shouldn't have any issues buying a 2013 at invoice or very close, when I bought my 2012 (first one on shore vin#1) it wasn't spoken for or someone backed out. Bought it right under invoice since they paid off my lease, 370z are flying off the lots, for 2-5k just get what you want.

Lol! Few more bits than that. And Nismos are usually more heavily discounted than Sports. I picked up my Nismo for 36k. You'd be hard pressed to do all upgrades Nismo has on a Sport and pay less. Heck I sold most of my Nismo stuff and made over $4000. Still have the Nismo body and paid for lot of my aftermarket upgrades! I'd argue the "worse ride quality". The sport is a lumbering sloppy car on country back roads compared to nismo. But even nismo is underspung wallowing pig that needs far more spring and damper up front. Don't forget you'd pay a pretty penny for that ECU tune and once you crack ECU your gambling on warranty coverage.

I picked up a 2012 Z Sports for $30,400 last week with 0%. I would say go with 2012's before the deal ends...

Placing a value on what's worth it between both these cars is subjectivity on its most extreme value. You are saying that powdercoating the car and adding tidbits will make it equal to the 2013 but remember. Once you start adding your own to a car. It begins losing value. Like powdercoating original wheels is a quick way to lose an extra $3grand in value. So what you saved in money by DIYing this stuff. You also lost money in its original value.

In the end...

Does the nismo look better to you in its 2013 Nismo guise?
Do you want to effect your cars value by powdercoating and painting OEM parts?
Is better brake safety and pedal feel negligible when considering its factory OG?


My advice would be... configure the Nismo of your dreams. If it turns out to be a 2013? Make an offer on it that you think is fair, considering . Then compare your accepted offer to a potential deal on the 12.

My guess is the 12 will be $40k with 0% vs around 41k with 3.9% from a bank on a 13. You. save about $1000 over the set years of financing + 1600 cash sticking with the 12.
Throw in powdercoating your12 nismo. You lose $3000 altering the cars OEM appearance. So after saving 2k; now you're down a 1k in value from altering the car. Now factor in your car is a year older off the bat, so you can strike off another $1500 in natural depreciation. So with your investment

2012
$40k x 0% + ($3000+$1500 dep val from being older model) (-$3000 in dep val powdercoating.)

You're instant 12 Nismo value =$32,500 after first mods to look like a 13.

2013
$41k x3.9% (-3000 instant dep) (+$1600 in interest)
Your 2013 NISMO value is $35000 plus a stronger appreciation over time for not disturbing the OEM look..

The only way to really save money is to buy the 12 and leave it stock. And just the fact your buying a 12 in a 13 model year cycle makes your 12 instantly worth less in resale. So either way you cut it... your gonna spend the cash.

Buy what you like.

Much of this argument is balanced with finance charges included in the equation vs outright purchase. Fair. Yet some may be struggling in their heads about this, mixed with current value and resale in the future.

I keep thinking how long do you (OP) plan on owning it. So many factors. Good luck.

Just remember, you can not track either safely, without some modification first.

Lots of fuzzy math there. First this $3000 depreciation you pulled out your *** - nope. If the OP changed it only to the smoked color of the 2013, which will be highly desirable, he could actually see the value go slightly up. If he takes a major hit because of changing the rim color then he changed it to something that no one wants.

Also, you better check that math on what 3.9% costs over 5 years on $40k. You are a million miles off. $40,000 at 3.9% for 5 years is $4091 in interest. How does that work into your calculation?

Maybe the math isn't perfect. I'm not going to back track a math error right now since you seem to have that shyt in a smash. But, you're telling me, I can improve the value on my car by altering its OEM state if I powedercoat to an unoriginal color "if" that rim color is in fashion??? That's a first.

Sketchy math or not. The reality is you lose some value buying the 12. There's no way around that. And I stick by buying with what you want because you pay out somewhere regardless when you buy on the cusp of 2 model years. The best deal is the one you can make on the car you really want. Cuz if you regret later? You will lose regardless... that was my real point in the math.

Probably best not to use math to prove a sentimental point. :icon17:

I agree he should get what he wants. OP's the one that's going to be stuck with the car for X amount of years he might as well like. You can't really put a price on buyer's remorse. Be honest with yourself and know what you're willing to live with and give up on vs. the cost saving benefits.

3 weeks ago i bought a 2012 sport with touring and nav for $43,000 and dumped almost $20k on the engine.

Why not have your current calipers painted $50 for paint. Wheels Powdercoated, get the gtr brake lines or similar ss break lines, and if you feel the need to buy a new stereo, speakers, amp, sub. All this could be had for well under the difference in price from the 12-13

That was my thinking, initially. However, valid points have been made about the depreciation hit for the '12 and the desirability for the '13's. I normally don't keep cars longer than 2 years, so I think it will be easier to get out of a '13 versus the '12.

??? Troll much??