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-   -   Steering lock problem solved (for real) (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/55315-steering-lock-problem-solved-real.html)

jetguy 06-01-2012 03:40 PM

No issues after sitting for 4 days!:-)

wheee! 06-01-2012 03:47 PM

I would like to know if this delay issue has affected anyone with an auto transmission... might just be a manual glitch.

jetguy 06-01-2012 03:50 PM

Mines a 7at

KingZee 06-01-2012 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1749205)
If Chris(SPOHN)had this problem he would have called me.

Lol he said he did a few posts back

Baer383 06-01-2012 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingZee (Post 1749418)
Lol he said he did a few posts back

I just talk to him on the phone he said it happened when he hit the start button fast and it only happened once.

daisuke149 06-01-2012 05:11 PM

I think people are just being paranoid.

ive had this happen before i pulled the fuse out too.

Just didnt push the button well enough sometimes, or sometimes i tapped it too fast.

I just started my car after last driving it on monday. no issues.

SPOHN 06-01-2012 05:15 PM

+1 on the paranoid.

Thechidz 06-01-2012 05:25 PM

Nice find!

KaienZ34 06-01-2012 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1749508)
I think people are just being paranoid.

ive had this happen before i pulled the fuse out too.

Just didnt push the button well enough sometimes, or sometimes i tapped it too fast.

I just started my car after last driving it on monday. no issues.


"Just cause i'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not after me!"


:roflpuke2:

wheee! 06-01-2012 05:36 PM

I tend to agree. If there is any possibility this is related... who cares! A slight delay occasionally at startup is worth the peace of mind knowing your car will not lock you out!

b1adesofcha0s 06-01-2012 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 1749556)
I tend to agree. If there is any possibility this is related... who cares! A slight delay occasionally at startup is worth the peace of mind knowing your car will not lock you out!

And you won't have to spend $500 on a new steering lock!

jetguy 06-01-2012 06:56 PM

Its funny people are willing to put on aftermarket intakes and everything else, but are scared to pull a fuse!

KaienZ34 06-01-2012 07:07 PM

I don't see anyone saying that.

spearfish25 06-01-2012 09:11 PM

I had a delay and had to push the start button again today. But I don't attribute it to pulling a fuse. I think I either pushed the start button too fast or didn't have the clutch flat. Can't see how a missing or blown fuse would cause a random, intermittent start fault. I've had to push the start button again plenty of times in the past while that little fuse was right where it should be.

happytheman 06-01-2012 09:18 PM

Yup, happens to me once or twice per week when I don't have the clutch all the way in (and I haven't removed the fuse yet).

AlphaSnacks 06-01-2012 11:54 PM

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's happened to me as well. Sometimes if you do everything too fast or simultaneously (clutch down + press at the same time) it won't register.

Vbp6US 06-02-2012 12:52 AM

So those of you that have pulled it already, and are having delay issues, can you just do it slowly/normally/as designed and report back please? I have a feeling it's the clutch pedal not in all the way or too quick on the button press. I've had both happen and I have the fuse in place so far (and under warranty). :)

As soon as my warranty expires, I'm doing this mod. Thanks guys. Reps coming.

b1adesofcha0s 06-02-2012 12:02 PM

I should be pulling my fuse tomorrow. I have a 7AT and have never had issues with a delayed startup so I'll report anything I find afterwards :tiphat:

Baer383 06-02-2012 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b1adesofcha0s (Post 1750502)
I should be pulling my fuse tomorrow. I have a 7AT and have never had issues with a delayed startup so I'll report anything I find afterwards :tiphat:

If you push the button too fast then you will have this issue.

Baer383 06-02-2012 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vbp6US (Post 1750117)
So those of you that have pulled it already, and are having delay issues, can you just do it slowly/normally/as designed and report back please? I have a feeling it's the clutch pedal not in all the way or too quick on the button press. I've had both happen and I have the fuse in place so far (and under warranty). :)

As soon as my warranty expires, I'm doing this mod. Thanks guys. Reps coming.

Why wait till your warranty exp.:icon14:

Just take the fuse out and try it,if you don't like it put it back in.
this is no different than removing your dome light fuse.

daisuke149 06-02-2012 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1750535)
Why wait till your warranty exp.:icon14:

Just take the fuse out and try it,if you don't like it put it back in.
this is no different than removing your dome light fuse.

yeah.. its a fuse..
the thing is meant to blow and be replaced...
blown fuse = same thing as pulled fuse. cuts the circuit.

Baer383 06-02-2012 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daisuke149 (Post 1750536)
yeah.. its a fuse..
the thing is meant to blow and be replaced...
blown fuse = same thing as pulled fuse. cuts the circuit.

Paranoia at it's best.:ugh2:

wheee! 06-02-2012 12:22 PM

I noticed last night when I went to start the car that:
1) car was sitting for about 4 hours in the garage
2) Clutch was FULLY depressed
3) Car was in neutral

and upon pushing the start button there was no response. Pushed it again after releasing and redepressing the clutch and it started.

Again, nothing to worry about, just wondering if there is a gremlin in the ECU looking for a completed signal from the steering lock....

Still worth pulling the fuse regardless!

b1adesofcha0s 06-02-2012 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Baer383 (Post 1750529)
If you push the button too fast then you will have this issue.

After owning this car for about 18 months I have never once pushed the button too fast, so it shouldn't be an issue :p

Baer383 06-02-2012 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 1750549)
I noticed last night when I went to start the car that:
1) car was sitting for about 4 hours in the garage
2) Clutch was FULLY depressed
3) Car was in neutral

and upon pushing the start button there was no response. Pushed it again after releasing and redepressing the clutch and it started.

Again, nothing to worry about, just wondering if there is a gremlin in the ECU looking for a completed signal from the steering lock....

Still worth pulling the fuse regardless!

It's not a gremlin in the edu mine does it and it's a 7at with the fuse in b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock plus my wife Altima does it to.

creellimit 06-02-2012 01:28 PM

Mod done to my 09.
On initial startup after pulling the fuse, I did get the delay, but who cares? I'm at 55K miles and have been waiting for my lock to fail at any time.

Ni55anPat 06-02-2012 01:33 PM

i need to do this ASAP :)

Ridgerunner 06-02-2012 02:42 PM

[Would be interesting to see if the wire harness causes the same issue or not although this would still be the better solution for me.[/QUOTE]

Installed harness today since I bought it before fuse pull solution. I see no delay with harness.

Baer383 06-02-2012 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ridgerunner (Post 1750739)
[Would be interesting to see if the wire harness causes the same issue or not although this would still be the better solution for me.


My 7at with fuse in has a delay once in a while so what would that mean,

Nothing.

fritz 06-02-2012 03:03 PM

Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz

geddy lee 06-02-2012 03:11 PM

I pulled the fuse last week, I had the delay thing happen to me this morning, Ummmmmmmm. Someone needs to figure this out.

Baer383 06-02-2012 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fritz (Post 1750779)
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz

I already understand what you wrote in the other thread,but the diagram has a different opinion that's why I said go back and read it and post it on this thread by posting your opinion doesn't help people reading this, if I'm wrong(and I doubt it)then show me and I'll admit I'm wrong till then buying a $50 harness is insane.:icon14:

daisuke149 06-02-2012 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fritz (Post 1750779)
Hi,

Euphoria pervades this thread!

I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky.

Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional"

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!)

The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie".

Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE)

[Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too]

The fuse is a little obvious.
I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere.

Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Whatever works, works.

Fritz

you really don't seem to understand the idea behind a fuse then or a fuse box...

The way to pull this fuse is the same way any dealer person would by removal of the box and pulling it out. There is no interference and no issues unless you decide to cut all the wires coming out of it... If you pull the box and see for yourself maybe you'd actually understand.

Also the entire idea of worry over a dealer looking at a missing fuse.. i hope to god you haven't otherwise modified anything on your car because they would definitely look at those more than a missing fuse.. Seriously?

Getting to a fuse is easy btw, if you think its difficult, please never modify anything on your car other than applying a removable sticker to the window. Even then, please consult the manual... as it may prove difficult for you.

Trips 06-02-2012 04:08 PM

I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.

Baer383 06-02-2012 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Triple's (Post 1750858)
I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!

Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own.

I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that.

That is exactly what I want Trip,I was simply asking Fritz if he could go back and reread the wiring diagram to see that fuse 48 does nothing but power the S/L ,I already have an idea what the delay is it is no big deal but I have to reread the diagram myself.

Thanks Triple for getting involved:tiphat:

Huckleberry 06-02-2012 04:18 PM

i have not noticed anything different.

no delay!

KingZee 06-02-2012 09:35 PM

I feel like I have to clear some things up after reading last couple pages...first of all, I never meant to raise all this unrest over the start up delay. I think it's a minor issue but still felt it should be brought up to inform everyone and to have some help analyzing. Your car isn't going to blow up because there's a start up delay.

Second point I need to clear up with MY issue is that I have definitely had start up issues when the clutch hasn't been pressed all the way and in those cases the car usually does not start until the start button is pressed AGAIN. I had that issue before pulling the fuse and this delay is definitely NOT that issue.

When I press the button I never change the position of the clutch NOR do I ever press the button again. I press the button once and keep the clutch pressed in. The car starts 3-5 seconds later.

Also important to note, this does NOT happen all the time but seems like it happens more often when the car has been off for a little while.

Baer, I think you now realize that there may be a delay but you were really defensive in the beginning without really reading and understanding my facts. Just realize that I'm not here arguing with you I actually am really appreciative of what you guys discovered and want what's best for the community.

The obvious reason that this start up delay would exist is from the CPU waiting for confirmation/communication of the steering lock but not getting one in a timely manner and "timing out" and starting the car anyway. This doesn't explain why it doesn't happen every single time though, that's what's weird to me at this point.

zero 06-02-2012 09:51 PM

i have not noticed anything different either. The time it takes for the car to start is the same as with the lock. It just does not have the sound of the lock before the car starting.

KingZee 06-02-2012 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zero (Post 1751244)
i have not noticed anything different either. The time it takes for the car to start is the same as with the lock. It just does not have the sound of the lock before the car starting.

Nice Paul :tup: I didn't have it today after car had been off for a day and a half...hopefully I was just dreaming :) I'll keep you guys posted

Baer383 06-03-2012 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingZee (Post 1751235)
I feel like I have to clear some things up after reading last couple pages...first of all, I never meant to raise all this unrest over the start up delay. I think it's a minor issue but still felt it should be brought up to inform everyone and to have some help analyzing. Your car isn't going to blow up because there's a start up delay.

Second point I need to clear up with MY issue is that I have definitely had start up issues when the clutch hasn't been pressed all the way and in those cases the car usually does not start until the start button is pressed AGAIN. I had that issue before pulling the fuse and this delay is definitely NOT that issue.

When I press the button I never change the position of the clutch NOR do I ever press the button again. I press the button once and keep the clutch pressed in. The car starts 3-5 seconds later.

Also important to note, this does NOT happen all the time but seems like it happens more often when the car has been off for a little while.

Baer, I think you now realize that there may be a delay but you were really defensive in the beginning without really reading and understanding my facts. Just realize that I'm not here arguing with you I actually am really appreciative of what you guys discovered and want what's best for the community.

The obvious reason that this start up delay would exist is from the CPU waiting for confirmation/communication of the steering lock but not getting one in a timely manner and "timing out" and starting the car anyway. This doesn't explain why it doesn't happen every single time though, that's what's weird to me at this point.



I get defensive b/c I know that if it was a electrical issue like waiting for a signal then yes it would do it EVERY time but I have had this issue with my 7AT with the fuse in (b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock) I took a look at the wiring diagrams to see what role the steering lock relay has in this,now on the other thread there have been comments that this is the cause and bad things will happen b/c you Fvcked with the IDPM even though this is there opinion I still think it is reckless to post it on the net b/c everybody reads into it,I'm reading the wiring diagram plus I'm going to go to Nissan and have him read it with the fuse out the Consult 3 ( I know people there personally )so I should get a straight answer.


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