![]() |
No issues after sitting for 4 days!:-)
|
I would like to know if this delay issue has affected anyone with an auto transmission... might just be a manual glitch.
|
Mines a 7at
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
I think people are just being paranoid.
ive had this happen before i pulled the fuse out too. Just didnt push the button well enough sometimes, or sometimes i tapped it too fast. I just started my car after last driving it on monday. no issues. |
+1 on the paranoid.
|
Nice find!
|
Quote:
"Just cause i'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not after me!" :roflpuke2: |
I tend to agree. If there is any possibility this is related... who cares! A slight delay occasionally at startup is worth the peace of mind knowing your car will not lock you out!
|
Quote:
|
Its funny people are willing to put on aftermarket intakes and everything else, but are scared to pull a fuse!
|
I don't see anyone saying that.
|
I had a delay and had to push the start button again today. But I don't attribute it to pulling a fuse. I think I either pushed the start button too fast or didn't have the clutch flat. Can't see how a missing or blown fuse would cause a random, intermittent start fault. I've had to push the start button again plenty of times in the past while that little fuse was right where it should be.
|
Yup, happens to me once or twice per week when I don't have the clutch all the way in (and I haven't removed the fuse yet).
|
Yeah, I'm pretty sure that's happened to me as well. Sometimes if you do everything too fast or simultaneously (clutch down + press at the same time) it won't register.
|
So those of you that have pulled it already, and are having delay issues, can you just do it slowly/normally/as designed and report back please? I have a feeling it's the clutch pedal not in all the way or too quick on the button press. I've had both happen and I have the fuse in place so far (and under warranty). :)
As soon as my warranty expires, I'm doing this mod. Thanks guys. Reps coming. |
I should be pulling my fuse tomorrow. I have a 7AT and have never had issues with a delayed startup so I'll report anything I find afterwards :tiphat:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Just take the fuse out and try it,if you don't like it put it back in. this is no different than removing your dome light fuse. |
Quote:
the thing is meant to blow and be replaced... blown fuse = same thing as pulled fuse. cuts the circuit. |
Quote:
|
I noticed last night when I went to start the car that:
1) car was sitting for about 4 hours in the garage 2) Clutch was FULLY depressed 3) Car was in neutral and upon pushing the start button there was no response. Pushed it again after releasing and redepressing the clutch and it started. Again, nothing to worry about, just wondering if there is a gremlin in the ECU looking for a completed signal from the steering lock.... Still worth pulling the fuse regardless! |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Mod done to my 09.
On initial startup after pulling the fuse, I did get the delay, but who cares? I'm at 55K miles and have been waiting for my lock to fail at any time. |
i need to do this ASAP :)
|
[Would be interesting to see if the wire harness causes the same issue or not although this would still be the better solution for me.[/QUOTE]
Installed harness today since I bought it before fuse pull solution. I see no delay with harness. |
Quote:
My 7at with fuse in has a delay once in a while so what would that mean, Nothing. |
Hi,
Euphoria pervades this thread! I (equally self-congratulatory) think "for real" is misleading and was already done by me. It's better done well away from electrical HQ which takes a lot of time to get at with care...and is slightly risky. Hence my original thread starter "Steering lock cut the wire/switch optional" Do not regret the harness ... a fifty very well spent. (not on me!) The harness or cut the wire: either seems the best solution by far. rhd has an excellent photoset on the thread "Cutting the brownie". Either way is lightning fast and involves no removal of plastics and IPDM. Add a switch and you have complete flexibility (especially for testing engine problems, and also have security better than Nissan's OE) [Pressing the brake pedal on an M/6 in neutral, OKs an engine start-up too] The fuse is a little obvious. I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses. Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, (all the wiring is so short) can cost a fortune as in locating the problem(s) and passing blame. "fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at this heart of your electrical systems.....and blame you for everything anywhere. Further you can not change a switched mode without much work and Interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness. Whatever works, works. Fritz |
I pulled the fuse last week, I had the delay thing happen to me this morning, Ummmmmmmm. Someone needs to figure this out.
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
The way to pull this fuse is the same way any dealer person would by removal of the box and pulling it out. There is no interference and no issues unless you decide to cut all the wires coming out of it... If you pull the box and see for yourself maybe you'd actually understand. Also the entire idea of worry over a dealer looking at a missing fuse.. i hope to god you haven't otherwise modified anything on your car because they would definitely look at those more than a missing fuse.. Seriously? Getting to a fuse is easy btw, if you think its difficult, please never modify anything on your car other than applying a removable sticker to the window. Even then, please consult the manual... as it may prove difficult for you. |
I would advise for everyone chatting back and forth on the pros and con's to stop diluting this thread or the other thread!
Both accomplish the same thing and to each his own. I'm happy with either approach though I went the harness way but nonetheless both work in the end so we need to just keep the focus on that. |
Quote:
Thanks Triple for getting involved:tiphat: |
i have not noticed anything different.
no delay! |
I feel like I have to clear some things up after reading last couple pages...first of all, I never meant to raise all this unrest over the start up delay. I think it's a minor issue but still felt it should be brought up to inform everyone and to have some help analyzing. Your car isn't going to blow up because there's a start up delay.
Second point I need to clear up with MY issue is that I have definitely had start up issues when the clutch hasn't been pressed all the way and in those cases the car usually does not start until the start button is pressed AGAIN. I had that issue before pulling the fuse and this delay is definitely NOT that issue. When I press the button I never change the position of the clutch NOR do I ever press the button again. I press the button once and keep the clutch pressed in. The car starts 3-5 seconds later. Also important to note, this does NOT happen all the time but seems like it happens more often when the car has been off for a little while. Baer, I think you now realize that there may be a delay but you were really defensive in the beginning without really reading and understanding my facts. Just realize that I'm not here arguing with you I actually am really appreciative of what you guys discovered and want what's best for the community. The obvious reason that this start up delay would exist is from the CPU waiting for confirmation/communication of the steering lock but not getting one in a timely manner and "timing out" and starting the car anyway. This doesn't explain why it doesn't happen every single time though, that's what's weird to me at this point. |
i have not noticed anything different either. The time it takes for the car to start is the same as with the lock. It just does not have the sound of the lock before the car starting.
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
I get defensive b/c I know that if it was a electrical issue like waiting for a signal then yes it would do it EVERY time but I have had this issue with my 7AT with the fuse in (b/c I have the upgraded "D" lock) I took a look at the wiring diagrams to see what role the steering lock relay has in this,now on the other thread there have been comments that this is the cause and bad things will happen b/c you Fvcked with the IDPM even though this is there opinion I still think it is reckless to post it on the net b/c everybody reads into it,I'm reading the wiring diagram plus I'm going to go to Nissan and have him read it with the fuse out the Consult 3 ( I know people there personally )so I should get a straight answer. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:26 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2