Does oil temp affacts to performance?
 

My temp gauge usually hits 250F while i'm pusing my Z to limit, and i think the Horse power is decreasing as oil temp is gets hotter and hotter.:shakes head:
Do you guys feel as what i feel? Did anyone noticed it before? I really think i need to find a Z tuner for oil cooler...
i couldn't find any experienced Z tuner so far.... got some cash tho....

Unless you hit limp mode you shouldn't be feeling any performance loss.

Higher oil temps = more heat soaking all the metal in the engine/bay = higher IATs = thinner intake air = less HP.

Also at some point (I don't know when it would begin, possibly beyond the limp mode threshold anyways), high oil temps would also make detonation easier, which might cause a timing retard as well.

I definitely feel a drop in power as the temps come up, whether it is just the heat soak affecting the intake temperatures or there are other factors I'm not sure.

me too, there's a drop in power when it gets hot. I think its a combination of heatsoak and engine management trying to keep temps safe by retarding timing. The more likely culprit is just heatsoak though...kills my car here in FL.

Heat definitly affects timing and consequently, Performance. Most modern ECU's take their cue from the IAT's and retard timing as those temps rise as a protective measure against detonation. They sample water temps to, but they stay pretty well regulated in general. My old Corvette would start to pull Timing at 86 degrees which shows you how low the performance hit starts.. On my turbo'd Audi TT I installed an intake manifold insulator (1/4" Phenolic spacer) which ultimately dropped the IATs 20%, You can see the graphic timing changes in this before/after plot..

http://images25.fotki.com/v950/photo.../timing-vi.jpg

Here's an example of an '08 Corvette Timing Map showing the retard as IAT's rise..

http://images38.fotki.com/v1212/phot...586/iat-vi.jpg

wow...
 

THX for brief explanation and valuable information.
i might be sound little bit selfish but, i'm so glad that
i'm not the only one who experiencing HP loss... :p

So, the bigger intake can suck thicker air = prevents HP loss problem?
According to "Modshacks", i think aftermarket mods are "must" to 370z...:eek:
I think "Stock" 370z is fail...:shakes head:

Leepeen, before jumping into the whole aftermarket mod game, get some good synthetic oil in your Z. With stock oil I used to hit 240s easily. With high quality synthetics like Redline (which I have) or Motul, you'll get better engine protection. I can now only hit 220s (where I used to hit 240s easily with regular oil) with my current oil. If it still doesn't help, oil cooler is your only friend! :tup:

P.S. You must wait 3000 miles before switching to synthetic.

I already put pennzoil platinum full synthetic oil at approxi 600 miles...
With stock oil, i used to hit 240F even if i drove like a grandma...
Now, i only hit above 250F when i rev until 7000~7500rpm for sport driving.

Therefore, :iagree:

Anyway, i got few questions....

1. Why should i wait until i hit 3000 miles for synthetic?

2. Why people recommend redline synthetic oil for 370Z?

Thx for reply... :tiphat:

Hey Leepeen, I have just walked outside my house (it's 2:55 AM) to get to my shed to get the Redline bottle :) so that I can show you the pic! :tiphat:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/DSC01858.jpg

As you can see, they want you to wait at least 3,000 miles (I did around 3800. Semtex, wstar I believe did the same 4-5K miles). Even though few will say that the rings will seal properly within 20 miles of driving, but some still believe you should use factory oil to seal the rings properly and drive 3-5K miles. But there were members who changed/switched to synthetic within 1200 miles (if that makes you feel better). I am still an old school follower who follows everything by book.

I like redline because it's a good oil. They use good stuff just like Motul. But I didn't pick Motul because I don't track my car. Motul is labeled as racing oil where Redline has two different oil - one is regular synthetic (which is what I have) and the other is Racing Synthetic. Racing oils tend to lack the important detergents to keep the engine clean on daily driven cars. If you'll be tracking your car (like Semtex, RCZ or Travis) go with Motul. If you are going to drive street/highway 90% of the time go Redline or Amsoil.

Check out this post here http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...html#post75262 also watch the video if you have time:
http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...om/redline.png

:iagree:

The rationale for using conventional oil for at least 3000 miles is to allow all your piston rings to seal properly. If your rings do not seal properly, you will end up with oil blowback. A lot of people will argue that waiting 3000 miles isn't necessary with the tolerances built into modern engines, but I prefer to play it safe. Why take an unnecessary risk?

I think a lot of people saw their oil temperatures drop after a couple of thousand miles. I think this is an indicative indicator that the break-in is complete and that the tight parts (rings etc) are no longer generating as much friction and subsequently, heat. Redline is a good oil no doubt, just saying it may not be the sole reason you saw a temperature drop. My temperatures have dropped and I'm on my second batch of Nissan Ester.

:iagree: Totally agree Chris. I bought my car in end February and temparature outside was a lot colder (50s) than it is now. Despise the cold temparature, I had noticed oil temp climbed very easily during my break in period (upto 2500 miles IMO). Then, as everything was broken in, car was a lot stable and oil temp would not rise as quickly. Some of the other members also seen this behavior.

Motul is not that good in the VQ.

Motul is bad oil for the VQ. This was from my350z.

Many other results like this I found on the VQ. They say stay away from it. This was 300v and the other 8100 didn't do any better.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...ikiary/oil.jpg

Good Oils: Amsoil, Redline, Penzoil Plat, Castrol Edge.

Castrol edge virgin results from lab..

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A guy on another forum got some results back from a virgin sample of castrol edge sent to blackstone...he compares it to amsoil to show the results. Just thought i'd share for those that are curious..

"OK so for $8 bucks a quart let's see what we are getting here......I'll compare it to a $8 Amsoil (retail no PC discount)....

Castrol Edge..............Amsoil.....What it is used for
Silicon 3.1.................2.3.........anti foaming agent
Potassium 0...............0............background residual
Boron 66...................19..detergents, dispersant, extreme pressure add
Barium 0...................0.3..........same as above
Magnesium 12...........12............same as above
Moly 129..................220..........friction modifier
Calcium 3509.............3468..detergents, dispersant, extreme pressure add
Phosphorus 823.........810..detergents, dispersant, extreme pressure add
Zinc 941..................848...detergents, dispersant, extreme pressure add
Vis@40C 61.8...........62.0
Vis@100C 10.4.........10.7

This is one stout add pack and has the Lubrizol signature all over it. Looks like a GRPIII for sure...far better numbers than Mobil1 for sure...so bottom line is this is one serious oil guys.......now of course we have to see it perform.....UOA's forthcoming......by the way this is the Edge 10-30 that was run through the lab....." From Sarge

:iagree:

Very good results with Redline in my previously modded cars.