:roflpuke2:

hi mt tam! :tup: yes, acehardware online sells them also amazon.

why california can have good things and not us? :confused: like in-n-out burger we dont have. :crying:

Yes, this was the case.

Actually, it reminded me of a video clip I saw one time where a guy built some crazy engine that ran on water, or just about any liquid you put in it. I'll see if I can dig it up.


Sent from my iPizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7ZZA...e_gdata_player


Sent from my iPizzle using magic and new fangled science stuff

Regualr gas (87Ron) + octane booster
 

That's what I have reviewed from my on-line research as well. That's why I am asking for other 370Z owners for there experience in adding octance booster to regular gas. Thus far frorm the responses, no one including myself, has added octane booster to regular gas.

37Z- find out the formula how to increase octane online. search toulene and formula or calculation etc.

then you will know why octane booster bottles dont do anything worth crap especially when mixed to 18+ gallons of gas. lol :rofl2:

:iagree:

:tup:

and another reason why i dont use Sta-bil in gas either for storage.

I don't use anything in my gas for storage, I just start everything once a week let it warm up to normal temps and that's it.

i dont even start the car. :tup: 3-3.5months for me usually with a full tank. :)

now back to our 'octane booster bottles dont work' program...:icon17:

I don't know how good it is to run a mixture of toulene regularly tho. Might facilitate corrosion of injector and fuel pump seals.

Seriously, anyone who bought the car and REALLY doesn't want to run 91+ AKI should spring for a "detune" using Osiris.

I'm sure you could have it tuned to run (with a lot less power) on regular or mid grade. As you can have more than one tune stored on the ECU, you could just toggle back and forth between the low octane DD tune and the higher octane performance tune.

Lot of money up front, but if you did it that way it would be safe and I guess eventually you'd make the money back.

Or... just buy premium and don't floor it so much. That will work too.

If people don't want to buy 91-93 octane, then you could always ride a bicycle.:bowrofl:

I have heard some dealership do not put premium in the cars that do require it. I know when I bought my G35 several yrs ago the sales guy said you do not need to put premium even though it says it. You will be fine with regular..... I was like WTF.

I took my mom's '11 Acura MDX to the Acura dealership yesterday for service. I started to talk to the guy that sold my parents the MDX & what fuel to use. He was like yeah it does say premium, but regular will work w/o any problems. He said he had a TL that he put 60k miles on it with regular & now has an MDX that has 20k miles with only putting regular gas. He has not have any issues or knocking noise from using regular instead of premium fuel.

I know my mom has had 2 TL's & is own her 3 MDX & only uses regular gas. She has never complained about any knocking noise from the use of regular gas. All Acura's require premium fuel as do BMW, Infiniti, Nissan, Lexus & etc. Oh my gf brother in-law has an Infiniti QX 56 that has 100-125k miles & he only uses regular gas. He has not had any problems of any sort from using regular gas.

I am not a mechanic and I have not done a study, or survey to find out how long would it take before a car that uses premium that is actually getting regular gas will last. I believe it really depends on how you drive the vehicle. If your vehicle has a supercharger or turbo charger, then you better put premium (maybe octane boosters if needed). If you are looking to take your vehicle to the track on the weekends, then you should put premium gas in your vehicle. If you are one of these people that like to go balls to the wall on the freeway, then you should use premium gas. If you are the type of person that only goes b/w 70-80 on freeways, then you could possibly get by with using regular gas (not sure how long).

In the end it is safer to just go with what is recommend (premium) for our vehicles, but it is also up to you as an individual.

You don't have to be a mechanic -- just read up on octane. Octane numbers indicate how likely it is to autoignite -- higher numbers are harder to ignite than lower numbers. Heat (from the air fuel mixture itself, or from lingering flame kernels from spark events) and cylinder pressure (either from piston characteristics or boost) can both cause fuel to auto ignite -- we only want the fuel to ignite when a timed spark event (i.e., when a spark plug fires) happens, not before and not after.

More ignition advance means less time for heat to dissipate from the piston head; higher CR's and or boost mean greater cylinder pressures. Therefore, octane requirements will depend on the CR of pistons, boost (if any) and ignition timing (other factors, such as atmospheric elevation, overall engine temps, etc. matter quite a bit too, but these are the key issues to keep in mind).

If the fuel ignites before or after the timed spark event, the pistons move out of time, creating stress on the engine internals, particularly the piston and rods. That phenomenon causes the "knock" sound you hear and it can result in cracked pistons or ruined rod bearings. Really bad autoignition events can create intense flame kernels that literally melt the piston head -- it will look like someone took an arc welder to it.

Anyway, the moral of the story is, you should use an octane no lower than recommended for the motor based on how it has been built and tuned. The requirements were determined empirically on an engine dyno when the motor was built and tested, and if you add forced induction, you pretty much have to once again determine octane requirements by observing power output and evidence of knock to determine new octane requirements to run safely.

Just saying "Ah, it'll be fine" is really taking an unnecessary risk.

It's worth reading up on so you know what you are doing and why it matters, and if you like cars, it's interesting stuff :tup:

Dealers are cheap and pinch every cent. Most dealers fill the vehicle with regular on new car fill ups and will even have the lot techs who fill it up watch the fill up till the gauge points to the F indicator and save a gallon or so....I would recommend a octane booster at purchase of a new car at least.