This was quite possibly one of the worst movies I've ever seen.

waiting on parts to come in.. sucks.

:icon18: that was for Steve and his new hair care products. :bowrofl:

I agree, Anger Management sucked donkey balls.

Having a productive little day. So far I've mowed the lawn, fertilized the lawn, over seeded, did some preparation for the brick walkway I'm installing, then it rained a little (perfect timing), met the UPS guy with a nice box of goodies from Auto Finesse :yum: . Ate lunch, now time to head to the basement to start taping drywall in another room. Then later I'm getting new tires put on the G...6... no, I did not get PSS's for it. After that, pickup Mini GaleForce and make supper... :tup:

Hopefully I'll have enough energy after my little guy goes to sleep to try out my new products on the Z. :icon14:

Oh, and I hit 2000 posts today! Everything's coming up GaleForce today :tup:

There appeared to be something wrong with your post...but I have taken care of it for you! :tup:

pintsize- as with any DIY, do at your own risk. :)

First go to your local AceHardware. they seem to have the best selection of loose
metric screws and washers.

You want to get:
a. 2pcs: metric screw M10x40 or M10x50 1.25pitch (10mm diameter, 40~50mm length)
b. 2pcs: 1" thick wide collars that your M10 screws can fit through.
Make sure these are wide collars (spacers) as your seat rails will sit on them.

c. 2pcs: Large washers that your screw can fit through.
d. Assortment of large diameter spacers that your M10 screw can fit through for backup.

Now onto your car's driver seat:
1) Seat rail mounting bolts are hidden under black plastic caps. Just pop them off with a
small flathead screwdriver or pick-tool. There are 4 of them (2 front, 2 rear).

2) Then loosen the front 2 bolts (dont remove the screws, just loosen real good).

3)Then side seat forward, remove the 2 black caps and the 2 rear bolts completely.
Keep an eye on how much thread went into the floor so that
when you put your new M10x40 screw in, you dont go in too deep.
store factory bolts in safe place for when you want to sell the car.

4) Raise the back of the seat and rail off the floor (seat isn't that heavy), and place your
two thick 1" collars(spacers) between the seat rail and the floor. you can easily
do different heights ranging anywhere from 1/2" to about 1-1/4". align the screw
holes so that you can thread your M10x40 bolt through.

5)Then take the M10x40 screws you bought, place washers (and spacers if bolt is
too long) and thread it from above the seat rail into the floor. tighten to 36lbs.
if you dont have a torque wrench, it's tight but not super tight.

6) Then side your seat back, torque down the 2 front rail bolts to 36lbs.

7) leave the black caps off for now as you will need to retorque all 4 bolts after a few
drives. retorque 3-4 times until they do not loosen anymore.

8) place black caps on the rail bolts and you're done. :p

Oh yeah, I forgot that I did get my cardio in. I'm a machine! :bowrofl:

Brantly! FTW! :roflpuke2:

:roflpuke2:

,
Okay. I am on the train now. Waiting for departure.

i posted above but i also made a DIY since there were other folks asking about this mod.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post1701813

i think the total cost was like $20-25 for the screws and assortment of collars and washers i bought. GL with the project. :tup:

how is train food? :ugh2: (been asking, but no response from noone... :icon17: )

have a safe trip!! :tup:

Make choo-choo noises as the train starts to pull away :tup:

I suspect they won't have any trouble doing it in two hours (which I assume it what that quote is based on). Better than $400 but still meh...

Ken, wish I could give you another rep for that helpful post to pintsize....but I've got to spread more around again! :)