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sorry for my ignorance guys but whats up with the so happy to hit 1200 and change oil soon break her in and etc... ???
reason why i ask is bc i am novice with this (I'm sure y'all noticed already) and i just got my Z i only have 240 miles not 2K 40, but really only just 240 miles. I'm dying to speed but I'm trying to get the hang of switching gears first.... anyways whats up with all of that? thank you for the explanations in advance. thank you. |
at 400 miles i was already redlining 2/3/4...and my z is running a lot harder than other z's who waited 1500 miles before getting on it...break it in like a b*tch and itll drive like a b*tch
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slowpoke break-in
the '08 350 enth. felt broken in to me around 45k, noticed pressure drop of several psi (about 3+ @2k rpm) at that time. traded @ 50k though .. articles like this one made me think it was worth it;
Nissan 370Z Review; Engine (VQ37VHR) > 370z.com > 370z.com - Magazine for '12 370+sp, as I got 2 free oil changes, so I changed after 300m, though wanted to do at 20; micro-debris flush was idea. @ 700m now, but daily 20 - 30 mile commute has nice rpm variation built in. 2 or more min warm up, stay under 2k for first 1.5 mile, take it up to 3k for next 7 miles with 5 traffic lights up to highway. then vary up to 4k and down over some 15 - 25min. will see how oil temps go w/ re: to oil cooler option but doubt it'll be an issue around city hi-way loops. 1200m break-in seems good 'nuff, then work in 4 - 5k range for a few hundred, then 5 -6k, etc.. No hurry. 2nd oil change around 1000, synth blend after that; 'should' do pre-10k say some. |
A look at a new vehicle uoa will explain the early first change. At no other time should the oil be as dirty as what comes out at the first change.
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800 left for mine!
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This is what I have been saying about break in procedure driving it hard seals the piston rings in faster with less oil comsumpsion,my car has about 5000 miles on it and has been driven hard and I also put up better dyno numbers than my friends who drive it like a baby and I haven't used any oil since the day I got it.:tup: |
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174 miles left... can..not..wait!! :happydance:
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My Z is about 500miles away to break in period. Today I checked my oil level its down by about 1/4 from the upper dot level of the dip stick. Read the manual It says its normal to loose some oil during the interval maintenance period or break-in period. This is the first time I encountered that in a new engine. Does all sports car do eat oil no matter what?
I remember the BMW M5 E39 would eat oil on a regular basis. |
break-in = sealing rings and flushing initial metal wear
if you're picking up new car soon, these two articles might help plan out approach.
First 20m & 1000mile, essentially, change oil. One can do too little, and too much. Always get it hot first, 212F ideal temp where viscosity is optimum. the reasonable approach: New Car Care How to Take Care of a New Car - Popular Mechanics note transmission comments. more detailed, and rigorous: New Engine Break-in Procedure note re: bikes, but same principles, explained well, with diagram. |
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I wish I have read this before I bought my Z....I hope its not to late and have not glazed the cylinder walls. |
I have no telling how the first 400 miles or so were handled on mine. I drove it from Dayton to Atlanta in one go, with frequent bursts from 2k to 4k. and some times 4-5k, with lots of passing and taking it up to 120 a few times in 7th gear. I'm a little worried myself that I glazed the walls, or that they already were cos it was a Nissan dealer car. It was about 8 hours of driving total, and as of now I'm at 1300+ and ready to change the oil. I'm hoping they had a little fun with it and took into high RPMs a bit when the dealer guys took it out. All 400 initial miles could have been test drives and lunch runs for all I know.
My biggest concern was running it for so long in 7th gear right at 4k RPMs for most of the trip (after reading that article). Does anyone know of a relatively simple way to figure out if the walls have been glazed? |
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