I wouldn't bother getting an oil cooler unless you plan on tracking the car. Especially since you said you didn't have any temperature issues last summer. It'd be a waste of money. Occasionally hitting 260 or even 280 isn't a big deal. Normal operating temperature is around 220 degrees.

I'd mostly agree with the above, but I'd perhaps back it off to "If you're occasionally hitting 260 for brief moments, but mostly averaging 240-250 or under on the hot days, that's ok". IMHO if the needle ever goes past 260, you're probably in a situation that needs some additional cooling, ideally. I believe 280 is when you hit the first, partial ECU rev limit ("limp mode"), with 300 being when it severely restricts you.

I suspect the 2011 model's additional oil:water cooler interface is probably the most ideal fix if the car is mostly street driven and only has mild oil temp issues in really bad weather (or on a rare short track/auto-x run), and can probably be retro-fitted fairly easily on the 2009-2010 models and provide less overall maintenance/risk/hassle than other options. It probably won't be enough for longer track sessions in hot weather though.

The best bang for the buck/effort on the intakes is without a doubt straight post-MAF replacement tubes and K&N panel filters, but the Gen3 will open things up a bit more and is the "ultimate" readily-available commercial intake mod on this car so far in absolute terms. It's also one of the most expensive options, is a pain to install, and involves cutting/drilling on your radiator core support, so it might not be worth it for everyone.

Here in Canada I have yet to have issues with oil heat. I haven't tracked my car but do like to do the odd sprint with it. I would say just wait and buy both so you can do the instal all at the same time. Ya it will be longer wait but you save time on instal. I will probably eventually do an oil cooler but it's a little further down my list right now same as the gen 3 CAI. Probably late to end of this summer season or over the next winter I will be getting both of these.

IMO though if you do go with one at a time do the CAI it will be satisfying the first time you step on the gas and hear that baby suck it in! It's definitely noticeable.

For decent gains, low cost, and ease of installation, you can't beat tubes+high flow panel filters (< $210).

The G3's appear to make an extra 6 +2 whp over the tubes + high flow filters at various points in the rev range (but not at EVERY point in the rev range -- most of the gains are at the top)... but it also costs over $500 bucks new.

To me, it comes down to how much extra cash/effort the 4-8 whp is worth to you.

I think if you can find them used for between $350 and $250 (or if price is no object, and every whp is critical to you, buy them new and enjoy) it is worth it over the tubes + panel filters.

However, for simplicity and bang for the buck the tubes + panel filters win, IMO.

CC_370z I'm selling my Gen 3 in a couple of weeks to make way for a Supercharger keep a eye out in the for sale section.:tup:

I say intake for a logistical reason... the intake cannot vary at all how you run it.. the oil cooler can. You might find that if you do the oil cooler first, you will have to re-run oil lines if they interfere with the intake. I ran mine high to avoid cutting the car apart.

It's hard to decide right now, but I'm leading toward the intake. I have enough money to get both right now. I just sold my Z1 post MAF tubes here last week and K&N Drop-ins will be up for sale as well if I decide to get the intake.

if you plan on doing any hpde days or autox, then yes the oil cooler is necessary. If you arent going to race, its not needed. I live in Edmonton and with 40*C days, driving in the city i had no problems...even drag racing no problems. Soon as i did some hpde days, i kept going into limp mode.

So it boils down to...

hpde/autox = oil cooler first

daily driving/drag racing = intakes first.

op- send your money else where, i think. you already have k&n drop-ins (per your sig).

unless you're canyon carving or tracking you most-likely wont see limp mode.

even in canyon carving i have never seen limp mode, my Z always maxes out at about 240* and never goes beyond that. Kinda makes me wonder what it would be like out on the track and also makes me wonder if i ever will need an oil cooler, but then again i decided i would work on the handling of my Z first and then move on to the power/cooling mods.

The stock intake set up is really good. Use the 500$ somewhere else.

Easy one, oil cooler first. Intake only if you're going to reflash ECU.

Anybody on here who never sees oil temps higher than 240* F -- pick up three sets of those ARC cool fins and plaster the bottom of your oil pan with them. Sounds ghetto, but the principle is sound: Add metal and surface area and you will disperse heat. Good for a 10* F or more drop

Behold:

http://www.the370z.com/members/jordo...40606-0000.jpg

I also have two stuck on my diff cover :tup:

where would you be able to buy these at? tried doing a google search , but didnt really turn up anything.

Heres a write up on them...
Coolin' Down With ARC - Turbo Magazine

....and heres where you can buy them.
Amazon.com: ARC Cooling FIN Tranny / Engine/ Intercooler / Intercooler Kit / Exhaust / Header JDM Made in Japan Universal Fit: Automotive