Nissan 370Z Forum - Those of you who have had Steering Lock Failure

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- - Those of you who have had Steering Lock Failure (http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-general-discussions/48442-those-you-who-have-had-steering-lock-failure.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnsZ (Post 2071383)

...what is the process of locating/pulling the fuse or is it just wise to bring it in to Nissan dealership soon? BTW....golf lover here :tup:

It's easy - there's a huge thread in the DIY section on this topic. Been there for months, and it contains step-by-step instructions (even some pictures): Full thread, Instructions (quoted below)

Quote:

For those of you who haven't done this yet, here are the steps I followed (I'm not sure that they've been put in one place):

Remove the battery compartment cover (two tabs at the front end of the cover).
Remove the four clips from the perimeter of the battery compartment surround. To remove each clip, use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry up the center round "head" of the clip, then pull out the entire clip.
Remove the battery compartment surround; note the section at the front driver side that goes under the support bar.
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl's rubber hood seal just to the rear of the battery compartment - there are four clips embedded in the seal, just put your fingers around them from between the firewall and the seal and pull up
Remove the passenger side windshield cowl (two clips that are the same as the battery compartment surround). Note that there is a tab (but no clip) where the cowl goes underneath the windshield seal - pull this up slightly, then pull the cowl out.
The fuse box will now be fully visible and accessible. There are two tabs at the top of the fuse box that go into the steel frame that the box is sitting in. Simultaneously push the two tabs towards the driver side of the car, and then pull the fuse box up and out.
There are two tabs on the bottom of the fuse box (where the harness enters) - push the two tabs and pull the cover open.
Put the car in ACC - do not start the car.
Remove the steering lock 10A fuse (top fuse in the lower lefthand block of four fuses - see the pictures in other posts in this thread, or just look at the diagram that is silkscreened into the top of the fuse box). To remove the fuse, I just used the same flat blade screwdriver that I used on the clips to partially pry up the fuse, then I used my fingers to pull it the rest of the way out. No fuse puller or needle-nose pliers needed.
Change the car from ACC to OFF.
Put the cover back on the fuse box.
Put the fuse box back into the steel frame - make sure (a) to align the slots at the center of the box with the tabs in the frame; (b) that the harness will fold under the box and slide down into the area underneath the box; and (c) that the two locking tabs at the top of the box are fully engaged and the box is locked into place when you are done.
If you wish, now is a good time to start the car and make sure that all is well. Before you start the car, make sure that no trim pieces, clips, or tools are loose in the engine compartment.
If you did start the car, turn it OFF.
Re-install the windshield cowl. To reinsert the two clips, push the center portion of the clip all of the way up, then insert the clip, then push the center portion of the clip all of the way down (you should hear a click when it engages). If the clip that goes into the passenger fender side of the cowl does not engage (or if the cowl does not lay flat on the fender), you most likely do not have the fuse box fully seated in the steel frame - remove the cowl and go back to step 12.
Re-install the winshield cowl rubber seal.
Re-install the battery surround trim (remember the portion that goes under the bar), re-inserting the four clips the same way as with the windshield cowl.
Re-install the battery compartment cover.
Pop open a tall frosty can of refreshment, stand back, and admire your $500 savings!

I believe that's it! If I forgot anything, I'm sure someone will let us know.

So, in summary: 15-20 minutes of your time and one flat blade screwdriver to save $500 - not a bad deal at all!

Advice: Put the 10A fuse you removed in a ziplock baggie in the car ("just in case"). In fact, next time I visit the auto parts store I'm going to purchase a few spare 10A and 15A fuses and leave them in the same baggie. Also carry a small flat blade screwdriver in the car in case one of the other fuses blows while you're on the road.

HTH!

DISCLAIMER: Perform this procedure at your own risk - I accept no responsibility for any damage to you or your car!

Quote:

Originally Posted by yakz (Post 2077884)

Steering wheel lock just failed at 36,000 on the dot in a grocery store parking lot.

Got a rental car, drove home, called the dealership. Told me $280 for the cutaway bolts and $730 for the steering wheel lock.

Read some threads on here, grabbed a hammer, went back to the grocery.

Smacked the part with the hammer a few times and it unlocked (note: kicking it didn't work, and I had to give it a pretty good smack with the hammer). Popped the hood, pulled the plastic **** off, yanked the fuse box and pulled the fuse. Put everything back together, shut it off, started back up just fine (whirrr of the lock working notably absent).

Taking the rental car back tomorrow annoyed but without the expensive tow and repair thanks the forum. :tup:

I'm glad I could help you save money:tiphat:

Our 2010 40th anniversary failed last nite on my wife after work @1:30 am in a bad part of town 40 mi away. Car only has 22k mi and I was pissed. I have cars with up to 185k with no issues so a relatively new car should not have any. Anyways jumped on the forum did a little research. Got the z to get power by hitting the silver box under the steering column. Drove it home and just pulled the 48 fuse this morning. Glad I didn't have to deal with the damn dealership.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Semper Fi (Post 2081875)

I'm glad everything worked out well for you and your wife

I don't need any money for my research but Ill take REP points instead :tiphat:

What a bunch of crap.

09' 370z. Got home today (12/31/12), pulled into the driveway, shut her off. Wife poked her head out of the garage and told me she needed to get her car out because she unexpectedly needed to go into work and that I needed to move my car. Tried to start it up, no go literally seconds after it just worked before. Rage ensues. I call my dealership (I'm 3 months out of warranty but only have 17k miles on it) and Nissan consumer affairs and they basically tell me to politely eff off since I'm out of warranty.

I come on the internet, see that this is a widespread issue, and call Nissan Consumer Affairs back telling them I know exactly what the problem is and that it's a joke this hasn't been recalled. They tell me that it's possible they could maybe help me out cost wise for getting the part replaced, but I'd need to pay to get it towed to a dealership and possibly pay for the diagnosis despite knowing exactly what the problem is.

Instead, I decide to hit it with a hammer (worked, yay!) and cut the stupid brown wire. Never thought I'd fix a $500+ repair problem on my car by hitting it with a hammer and cutting wires, but hey, for once I'm not going to complain.

Thanks internet, as usual you are infinitely more useful than useless customer service and repair from corporations.

P.S. Government recall complaint issued as well.

P.P.S. If this is any indication of the level of quality and customer service provided by Nissan for known issues, it will be my last. I love my car, but this is complete and total crap.

o9 48,000 12/30/12
cut the brown wire no probs since then

Quote:

Originally Posted by Portlis (Post 2086927)

I decide to hit it with a hammer (worked, yay!) and cut the stupid brown wire. Never thought I'd fix a $500+ repair problem on my car by hitting it with a hammer and cutting wires, but hey, for once I'm not going to complain.

Thanks internet, as usual you are infinitely more useful than useless customer service and repair from corporations.

P.S. Government recall complaint issued as well.

Awesome bro!! Good to hear that hitting it unseize it and she gave you a 2nd chance before coming out of pocket. I believe the other option would have been to pull the fuse once on in acc mode. Don’t quote me on that.

:confused: Why are people cutting the brown wire instead of just removing the fuse? I don't get it...

Baer383's fix (removing the fuse) is super easy and non-permanent...

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 2087775)

:confused: Why are people cutting the brown wire instead of just removing the fuse? I don't get it...

:iagree:

Quote:

Originally Posted by VCuomo (Post 2087775)

:confused: Why are people cutting the brown wire instead of just removing the fuse? I don't get it...

Baer383's fix (removing the fuse) is super easy and non-permanent...

Pulling the fuse is pretty easy, but still not as easy as snipping the wire. If you have no reason to ever reactivate the SLU, why not snip the wire? It's out of sight and can be repaired if necessary (although that's a job I wouldn't want to do in such cramped quarters). Personally, I don't like taking such drastic measures as cutting wires on a new car so I pulled the fuse, but that's just me.

Cutting the wire is not the best fix, IMNSHO, but I find it difficult to argue with success.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Portlis (Post 2086927)

What a bunch of crap.

Nissan consumer affairs and they basically tell me to politely eff off since I'm out of warranty.

I come on the internet, see that this is a widespread issue, and call Nissan Consumer Affairs back telling them I know exactly what the problem is and that it's a joke this hasn't been recalled. They tell me that it's possible they could maybe help me out cost wise for getting the part replaced, but I'd need to pay to get it towed to a dealership and possibly pay for the diagnosis despite knowing exactly what the problem is.

provided by Nissan for known issues, it will be my last. I love my car, but this is complete and total crap.

Glad you got it fixed, but as my son taught me with ATT customer service, if you do not like the person who answer call again, I did this with Nissan with my front bumper, because the dealer screwed holes into it, thou it took 11 months to get the bumper replaced. Now I have to work on the lousy paint they used.

Mine failed in the unlocked position on 12/24/12. It is a 09 RevA with 29000 miles. I luckily still have the bumper to bumper warranty and the dealer said its covered under it and they will pay for the tow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stealth36 (Post 2090270)

Mine failed in the unlocked position on 12/24/12. It is a 09 RevA with 29000 miles. I lucky still have any bumper to bumper warranty and the dealer said its covered under it and they will pay for the tow.

:tup:

My steering lock never failed and is probably still good as new (for now), but I pulled the fuse as a preventative measure. No issues, no worries and if I ever want a steering lock, I will wait for the recall (eventually) that will replace it N/C...

Mine failed for the 3rd and last time at 22,500 miles. Once I got it started by moving the steering column aggressively up and down, I drove it to my Nissan Dealer which I have a great rapport with. I'm one of the lucky ones as the part was still under warranty. Would have cost $1,500 to fix. Yikes! Ridiculous why this was not a recall by Nissan. My guess it's because of the low number (comparatively) of Zs made in '09 and '10. If it was an Altima, it probably would have been recalled. I guess they also figure that us Z owners have lots of money...:shakes head: