Oil Cooler Install Thread
 

My engine temps are climbing with the warming weather and the oil cooler issue continues to be at the forefront of my thoughts.

That being said, finding the right kit is problematic. Can you guys post a few things to simplify this process for others? Here are some helpful ideas:

1) what kit did you install (brand, number of rows, size, etc)?
2) who did your install? how did you find your mechanic (if one was used)?
3) what temperature drop did you get with your respective cooler?
4) if you did it yourself, please post the steps either here or in the DIY forum
5) did you include a thermostat? If so, how did you install it?

With a little guidance from those of you who have pulled it off, hopefully it will be a bit easier for the rest of us when we try.

Thanks!

Stillen Upgraded oil cooler kit.

My two mechs and I. I found them online through forums.

I can't push it past 220 on the street (traffic). (and I've been trying)
Highway cruise at 180-190 regardless of outside temperature.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...-plenty-3.html

5) did you include a thermostat? If so, how did you install it?

Nope, but then again I live in Miami so I don't need one. You can get a thermostatic sandwich adapter.

This is something I was wondering about too, actually. I'm in Houston. Generally our weather ranges from hot and muggy to f*****g hot and muggy. However, we do get a few cold days in the winter (it might actually freeze 1 or 2 nights a year in the dead of winter), and that aside, even a 50 or 60 degree winter day is pretty damn cold compared to 180 degree oil.

So what's the scoop on the necessity of a thermostat? I would assume it basically boils down to: "you need one if you can't keep your oil up to 180 with the cooler due to cold weather", but how cold does the weather have to be to make that an issue?

Other than size, is there any real difference in quality between brands.

Any reason not to buy the least expensive alternative?

Oil coolers all do the same thing. The only real thing that varies is quality of the pieces and capacity.

The greater capacity you have, the better, but you will pay more for the part. The trick is to find the best balance between quality, capacity and price. Setrab makes some of the best cores available, so you want to have a setrab core. The lines and the fittings to attach the lines vary as well. Some of the best stuff you can get for the fittings is AN lines. As far as the lines go, the best thing you can do is get stainless lines. If you try to built a kit on your own, chances are you wont get as good a price even if you go directly to the manufacturers. Companies like stillen have the advantage that they can get bigger discounts on the parts and believe it or not, they are passing the savings over to us. I priced the same exact set as stillen offers and it came out to more if I got it directly on my own.

The other thing you have to take into account is that your engine is riding on this oil cooling kit. If something breaks then you are in trouble. So you want to get the best quality that you can afford. Personally, I think the Stillen is priced very well and it is made up of quality parts. You can't go wrong there.

I ordered the Stillen kit and it should ship on Monday. Josh from Stillen who routinely posts on this forum is looking into thermostats and should get back to me tomorrow as I plan to include one in the order. If things go as planned, I'll meet with my mechanic next Saturday to install the cooler.

This has been a double edged sword for me. I don't want my car running hot as it will shorten the engine life. However, if I install the cooler and the cooler fails, the engine damage may be severe. I finally figured that if I can get the cooler installed correctly, the overall result will be beneficial. If the engine oil warning light ever popped 'on', I'd pull over immediately and check the oil cooler system first.

I'd be down to ditch the voltage meter/clock for an oil pressure sensor.. that would be very useful.

Yeah... I'm going to be using Magden for digital gauges on a lot of the stuff our dash is missing, but oil pressure is something where I'd really like to have a hard real gauge hooked up. As I understand it, our cars have an oil pressure sensor already that feeds the ECU for a dummy light, but I don't see how you'd re-use that hole/sensor really. Has anyone looked into how to go about adding an independent oil pressure gauge (perhaps inline with one of the cooler fittings? where would be most appropriate? Post-cooler?) I think (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that with the standard sandwich plates, the basic flow is pan -> pump -> cooler -> filter -> top of engine -> drain back to pan, right?

It's not hard to put together a quality DIY Oil cooler for a reasonable amount of money.. I have the following parts on order to do one up. Went with a Tru-cool cooler...Very affordable, nice quality and good success on the last car I used one on. Also went with a Mocal 180 degree thermostatic sandwich plate that ran the price up about $50. Most of the prefabbed kits use a standard plate with no temp control which can be detrimental in cold climates as it takes a LONG time for the oil to get up to temp. Quality Aeroquip hoses and AN10 socketless fittings complete the package. Install should be a piece of cake.

Parts list:

10 AER-FBN1000 -10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black $43.70
2 AER-FCM2039 Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Aluminum - Aeroquip 90 Degree Male Elbow, Alum. -10 to 1/2" Adapter $22.48
2 AER-FCM1534 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting $33.36
2 AER-FCM1514 Aeroquip Straight Socketless Fitting - -10 Aeroquip Socketless Straight Fitting $14.50
1 MOC-2BM810A Mocal 1/2" x -10 ORB fitting $15.99
1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95
1 TRU-L7B TRU-Cool 24 Row Racing Oil Cooler $44.95

Shipping Rate: $8.85
Subtotal: $270.78

From Racer Parts Wholesale

Sounds like a good setup. Although I haven't come to grips with the socket-less fittings. Have you considered adding the Oetiker clamps to the fittings?

Let us know how it turns out!

On the last cooler set-up I built I used Stainless lines...Not awfully hard to put together, but a minor PITA...After 5 years one abraided a power steering hardline causing a minor inconvenience...Purely my fault though from routing..

I researched the Socketless setup since they seem to be pretty common these days...Lots of positive reports with no real issues reported.. They actually caution you Not to use clamps on the Aeroquipt fittings..From what I've read, all over the net in many Automotive and industrial applications this approach seems just fine. Easier to put lines together, 250psi rating, cheaper too..If this wasn't proven technology it wouldn't be so widely used. I honestly don't anticipate any problems here..

I hope you can supply a DIY on this set up with lots of pics. Looks very interesting.

That's the plan....!
Should actually be a lot easier than the one I did on my Audi TT....
Pics here if interested: Oil cooler upgrade album | Ttschwing | Fotki.com

That makes me feel better about the second cooler I put in my 993. I thought it was a pain in the rear. Yours was worse.

I agree on the SS lines. I used fabric shrouded lines on my last install.