I bought a 2010 - I paid $34,500 but it is a touring model with sport package and navigation. The sticker was something like $42k.

Touring is $4500 more than base, and navigation adds $1850... so I would say you would need to be $5500 less than I paid to get a similar deal. That would put it at $29k.

FWIW, the dealer lost something like $2k on the sale of my car. But it was on their lot for almost a year and they wanted to move it.

Didn't need a new battery or tires - it had 60 miles on it and was in pristine shape... only thing is that when you drive it off the lot, it's just a low mileage 1-year old Z, instead of a low mileage new year Z.

Check NADA for comparable cars (enter same mileage too) to determine market value depreciation. That should be a fair target for the amount LESS you pay for the '10 vs. the '11 model. I don't think dealers pay taxes on the cars they haven't sold (probably varies by state) but they are paying insurance and have lost money advertising the car, washing it, fuel for any test drives, etc. Most people think the best way to get a deal on a car is to buy one that's been sitting for a long time, but actually it's best to take one the moment it's being pulled off a truck. Then it doesn't really cost the dealer anything except some basic prep. Inventory has carrying costs for any business but it can also be a tax deduction.

In reality you should be able to get a killer deal on it. I just picked up a new 2009 "leftover" sportbike for $3k under the MSRP. It all depends how hard you negotiate and what you're willing to spend. For a leftover in-stock vehicle cash is king and if you're serious the dealer should be too. If you have a firm # in your head bring out your wallet and ask to speak with the sales manager. Offer him what you're willing to pay bottom line and be serious about it.

If they don't accept it you can always write a check for the car in full (note that on the check) but don't sign it. Walk out and tell them to call you when the car is ready for you at that price. :D

:iagree:

If it's a good enough discount, go for the '10. That's what I did about 2 1/2 months ago.

I bought an 09 Touring & Sport & 7AT last August for 31k. That was close to becoming a two year old model when I bought it. If you add up those options and consider you are looking at a car about as old, I think under 30k would be what you'd want to be looking at for price.

However, I don't know how the earthquake and production stalls factor into this,... b/c that could increase the price even for older models if there is perceived demand...

don't let the year scare you 09-11 are all i hate to use the word great so i will say real good cars... though that price is to high............

i bought an 09 in 2010 and got a discount of 5000...
the one cool thing about buying a year old car with no miles on it...
is it will always be considered a low mileage car.

Thanks for the insight guys, it is essentially a 2 year old car now since 2012 would be here in a few months.

Regarding the demand since the shortage of parts, We were test driving a Wrx the dealer was pretending it was some sort of exotic and didnt think it was a good idea to test drive and these are very hard to come by. They said they would sell it at sticker
Yea right. May be sell that to a 18 year old.

Keep in mind the dealers might play hardball and refuse to slash prices in light if what happened to Japan. Lack of new production may keep older model years and used stock prices higher than need be because they feel a customer who really wants a Z will pay the higher price...the whole supply and demand thing. At least I wouldn't be surprised if a dealer uses that as an "excuse", whether or not the tsunami placed a perceived or real lower rate of depreciation on the Z.

In regards to the WRX. Subaru inventories are very low this time of year. Was looking at that myself both this year and last and ran into the same situation. Their sales have been great too. And a lot of people just don't like buying ones with miles on them. If that's what you really want, go test drive a used one, work out your deal making it dependant on a test drive. Good luck either way.

You should go back to that dealer guy. Let him tell you 34.8 again with no rebates. Then laugh hysterically in his face and tell him. "I guess you guys have a special attachment to 2010's. You have them priced to keep them on your lot for eternity." Then walk away laughing hysterically and uttering the words "what a joke!"

Nissan dealers really think the Z is still in its first year or something. Half the problem with Z sales is nissan dealers aren't motivated to sell them. I still see Z adds where THE PRICE IS $1000 over msrp with all options and destination. On top of that nissan corp keeps bringing up prices every 3 or 4 months.

I would contact several dealers over the internet and get quotes by email. It works out much better than talking to some shmuck in a suit that sees every customer as a potential victim. When internet sales sees you are sending a forward of quote requests to 8 different reps... they are more willing to negotiate properly.

They're selling them at sticker faster than they can make them.

:iagree:

I got my 2010 for about 3k less than a similarly appointed 2011, if that gives you anything to go on.

i also picked up my 10 for about 2500 less than the equivalent 11.

2010 year car is worth about 2k less than a 2011. so I need to find a base line for 2011 then go by it