http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2768/...c51deb4e_z.jpg

The shift light doesn't indicate "8000" rpm's. The car in stock form doesn't do that many rpm's. I have a tune that allows me to hit 8000 rpm's and I'm not even able to hit that on the track. I've only seen it happen on the dyno with my car.

You drive it however you want my friend. And do us a favor and yourself, don't ask a question that you are looking for a definitive answer to on a forum full of "contradiction". That just makes no sense.

Regarding your first oil change, I always have been a fan of the 1000 miler.

Good luck to you.

Thumper, your first statement ends it all and summarizes everything. Yes, it's your $, same way it's my $ for my car, and the OP's $ for his car. Like I said, if it works for you, then great. I was just wondering where and how you came about with these methods. That's all. I hope you didn't take this as disrespect to your methods as that was not my intent.

I have an engineering background, but not to the extent that would qualify me to know the validity of EITHER method of break-in, hence my resolve to go with the manufacturer's methods.

Break in? I think its bs. They test them at the factory. When test driving do test drivers like the car magazines break it in before they rip on it...no. let it warm up then drive how you want too.

Interesting reading. I don't agree with everything the author said but that's typical. To each his/her own and I can respect that. However, much of what the author recommends is similar to what I do. I didn't see his qualifications on the article but I did gloss over some parts of it since I'm at work so I might have missed it.

I do feel topics like this are a waste, especially when the OP asks a question like this after he's already run the engine hard. What's the point? If you don't have specific intimate knowledge of how an engine actually works (besides the push start button) just follow the owner's manual.

You can ask 1,000,000 engineers the same question and get 1,000,001 answers, TRUST ME. :D

To me the most important part of the whole process is lubrication and heat management. That's MY opinion and nobody has to agree or follow it because it's highly likely (just ask my lady) that I'm wrong anyway.

No worries, I probably didn't read your post correctly myself and took parts of it wrong. Hard to convey thoughts through a simple forum. :tiphat:

You could have a Ph. D in engineering and still not fully realize the validity of either break-in method. That's the truth with everyone. What's important to realize is that it's not just the rings that need to be broken in. You have the bearings (although this is totally different), camshafts, etc. Engineers are great for drawing things, designing complex parts using CAD, etc. However, I don't think the engineers specifically sat down and developed break-in procedures that are directly related to the specific design, materials and manufacturing processes of the 370Z engine. However, I could be wrong.

I only posted what I do as information. I wasn't giving specific detailed guidlines of what I think anyone else should do.

After all...it's just a complex air pump. :driving:

you hit the nail on the head there is really only 3 things that are imporant during breakin,

1.lubrication (also oil temps must be watched)
2.heat (new engines generate ALLOT of heat until they loosen up)
3.speed ( not in mph but time frame to get the rings seated)

However anyone can/knows how to achieve this they will have a healthy engine.:hello:

Think of it this way: Have you ever heard of anyone damaging or having a poor performing engine who followed the factory recommended break in procedure ? I haven't. There are some who recommend "driving it like you stole it" right off the showroom floor and who claim no problems. Maybe so, but the anecdotal evidence isn't in their favor that it does any good either. Err on the side of caution and RTFM.:tiphat:

You're from "Occupied California"? :rofl2:

i'm not an expert just an average guy who likes his car 09 370...
but i think sometime this subject is beat on like a old mule...........

i'm old school treat you car right. service it when it needs it and these new
motors of today will go 100,000 miles easy...

beat the crap out of it and don't maintain it and your asking for trouble which you will get.......

quick story. at nissan getting oil changed.. tow truck pulls up with brand new
370 it's got 9,000 miles on it with 1 quart of oil in it. owner starts in on service
manager about car locking up.......long story short i think it was 10 grand or more to replace engine. should have seen the look on the guys face when he was told sorry no warranty. sorry to ramble just use a little common sense.

My car was used as test drive at nissan pataluma dealer.

So I'm sure it got a proper break in.

After all the work you had done on your car proper breaking it in is the least of your worries.:icon17:

Haha I love it!! :tup:

We're deviating from the theme of the OP. I think I'll start another break-in thread so we can get back on track...

:)

:icon18:

Nice. I didn't even drive the car off the lot without checking all fluids I could.

So what happened with this dude? Why was he refused warranty? Was it neglect? or was it something wrong with the engine if it burnt up all that oil? Because if he did his due diligence in changing oil, why was he refused warranty? I mean I know I would (and do) always check fluids 1x or 2x a week, but still, I don't think that was necessary for any other layman owner. So I am curious to know why he was refused warranty.

I, too, am curious aboout this.

Because he drove it like he stole it from new!!!! J/K.

:icon18:

Yeah when he took it back to the dealer where he bought it
the car had never had it's oil changed or anything!!!!
He drove it like he stole it down to one quart.
It locks up. So no coverage. He got what he deserved

How many miles did the guy drive before he took it back with one quart?

ok I may be naive, but is sticking with manufacturer "recommended" (emphasis on recommended) tasks ESSENTIAL to getting approved warranty work?

Don't get me wrong, of course I do all the recommended (and at times beyond recommended) maintenance tasks, but I did not know that you HAD to do these tasks to be granted warranty work?

very interesting

it had 9000 on it. but you could tell he had drove the crap
Out of it. Tires looked they had 50,000 on them

9600 miles and he doesn't change, or even check, the oil? Wow. :shakes head:

I believe if you don't follow the recommended maintenance schedule Nissan published they could use that to deny a warranty claim. To my understanding you don't have to do more than that, but if you see oil sparying out from the side of the block you better tow in the vehicle rather than continue to drive it.

Any good master mechanic can tell if the car was maintained or abused.

Manufactures are making engines with much higher tolerances today. Where cylinder clearances used to be in the thousands of an inch, now its in the ten thousands. Bores are rounder and straighter. There is know reason to baby a newer engine, it will actually hurt. You need cylinder pressure to drive the rings out onto the bore, which actually shaves the bore into a perfect fit. By babying it the rings will only rub and burnish the surface leaving a less then Ideal finish. So ... keep the revs below 4000 the first 300 miles, then drive it ... accelerate with meaning for the next 2500 miles and your all set. This is how all High Performance engines are broken in, and all engines today can be considered a high performance engine since they pull more power out then there predecessors ever did.

Just follow the user manual. The manufacturer is clearly telling you how it should be done and that's it. Anyone who has another method is just opinion and preference.

for future Z owners, when breaking in your new Z, DO NOT drive it over 4,000 rpm for the first 1,450 miles (breaking period) or else...let me just say, new engine installed by NISSAN USA, warranty =)

So, what qualifies you to make this statement?

I love the contradictions in certain threads. Engine break-in? Nissan engineers know best so follow the owner's manual to a T. Wait, engine oil? Hell, Nissan doesn't know what they are talking about, you can use snake piss as long as it's 5W-30.


:rolleyes:

The break in period is for the clutch. Not the engine.

What is RPM ?
 

People that know what it means would not rev a new engine to 8,000 rpm.
This is how I brake in my cars(I've owned over 25 cars). Accelerate slow, shift at 2,500 rpm, once in a while accelerate(in any gear)till about 4k & then lift foot off gas pedal. That opens up the rings & helps the rings get a great seal. Change break in oil at about 1,500 rpm. Just enough to break in engine & get rid off any loose material in the oil. I mostly always shift at apx 2,500 rpm. Except for passing or getting on the highway or racing, I never accelerate fast/rev high for no reason or stupid reasons like listening to my exhaust. period.

People that accelerate/high RPM often, will wear out their rings much sooner & put more wear on their bearings/all parts..

I have two nissans near 180,000 miles & almost burn no oil & oil stays clean.

Thank god you were here to answer the question...... a year later :ugh2:

You're missing the point. Break in procedures really provide no monetary gain for Nissan (unless you were to blow the engine I guess)... some people dispute that the ester oil is somewhat a gimick to an extent to drive service revenue at Nissan.

Not saying I agree or disagree but they aren't exactly apples to apples.

The cancer.

So, what qualifies you to make this statement?