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I'm a big believer in the rev-up-coast-down-avoid-constant-speeds method (which, BTW, is not inconsistent with the Nissan recommendation...), although my explanation for it (heat cyclying) has been debunked... :icon14:
Anyway, zero oil consumption. I've broken in two motors this way and had no issues with either, so will continue to do so until I see compelling evidence pointing to an alternate method. The idea of the method I use is to neither baby it nor drive it like you stole it, but rather to drive it "normally" and avoid constant engine speeds whenever possible. |
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That is exactlly the way the instructions told me how to do it on my new GM crate motor (zz383). Actually to take it to redline slowly in a lower gear then let it coast back to 2,000 rpms and so on. I forgot about that proceedure :iagree: |
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Everyone acts asif their car has been babied and never driven above 3000 RPM... Unless you personally sat and waited at the dealership for the truck carrying your car to arrive, your car has been taken for atleast one joyride. This was back in 2000, I'm sure this kind of thing still happens today. TL;DR - Drive it like you stole it, the people at the dealership did before you received your car. |
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My first drive in my Z06, I took it a couple hundred miles running it up to about 3500-4500 in 3rd gear. I let it coast back down. Some stop/go, got on it on the freeway a few times in 3rd and 4th gear (nowhere near redline or anything, just healthy acceleration). I noted that the tail-pipes had a lot of soot on them, and my oil level was maybe 1/2 quart below the FULL dot. Since then, I have never noticed any oil usage at all over 1500 miles later it remains DEAD ON, and there is no more soot on the exhaust tips. Contrary to what people say, the rings DO need seating even by the time you get the car. The LS7 engine is run cold at the factory for several minutes, and this is apparently NOT enough to seat the rings. Engine break-in takes a few hundred miles initially, and then will get better and better up to 5-15 thousand miles, depending on the vehicle. The main thing is the break in the gears correctly. This means the differential, transmission, and of course the clutch and brake surfaces. No hard stops, no powershifting, no sustained speeds or loads. Very the load (accel/decel), vary the speed, and heat-cycle the parts (park and go eat lunch). Don't shock the driveline or drop the clutch or slam the brakes. Modern cars are not ming vases, and I think it would really take an idiot to cause a problem with break-in. This is why it is not tied to your warranty and noone is recording the paramaters the car was driven at for the first few hundred miles. If it was a real issue, the data would be black-box recorded and downloaded at your first service in an effort to deny warranty due to improper break-in. *Of note, at the BG factory, my car was rolled off the assy-line and taken to over 4,000rpm (not much over) and 80mph on a rolling dynamic alignment machine right in front of me. Then it was taken outside where I did not see and driven on a test-track with lots of bumps, etc. to "find rattles" and fix them before it left the plant, if indeed any existed. I do not know what happened there. The owner manual for my car is under 55mph and 4K rpm for 500 miles, and no HPDE's until 1500 miles. |
I dropped mine off for ECU reflash development with 500 miles on the clock. I picked it back up with almost 1200 on the clock... Mostly dyno. (with redline increased to 8k)
How's that for a break in? Lol |
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Love it. Have you had your out much? |
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now I think about it.
My Z was a demo car. I once drove with the dealership's owner in a 350Z I was interested in. redlining, drifting high speeds. then he gets out and goes "there we go I heated her up, now you can have fun" my Z probably got a hard break-in. zero oil consumption though. |
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