wakes you up, doesn't it? :D ive done it too a few times. the gates are slightly different from my G which i drive daily so it's a tad tricky for me when i get in my Z on the weekends. :p

That's why a 3rd to 2nd misshift is called the "money shift". I think your engine is fine. Just be more deliberate when shifting from now on.

:icon14::confused: SRM stupid??? :rolleyes:

LOL... good point. So much for airing laundry....


Funny rabbit pic.

I've done in a Porsche 911 several times on track from 3rd to 4th & hit 2nd instead wearing gloves. Kind of makes you feel like a fool. Most Zs I would think are built to occasionally go 2k over redline no problem. Rough on but not devistating to a high performance engine/trans. What is redline speed in 2nd?

No. 2k over redline runs the risk of engine parts in your legs.

Wow. Good thing I had an RX-7 when I pegged it regularly since reving was so quick. Buzzer went off all the time. I think Z can handle it too.

I'm pretty sure down shifting from the top of third to second it would bring you to over 10K rpm.

I listened (at a banquette dinner) to a professional race driver Johannes van Overbeek, complain about his team mate over revving his Porsche to 11K to assist breaking. The crew chief said so. If it breaks we (Porsche) will make it stronger.

Porsche's can handle it easy.

you guys better call DE..

Was it SRM, or your bad shifting that destroyed your motor? In case it's not damaged, that is.

:iagree:

Would you have preferred me posting a new thread? Truth be told; I'll take a necrobump versus a new thread every day. That way it mitigates the duration of time it takes for someone to find what they're looking for via the search function when there is only one or two threads covering the topic.

No disrespect intended :tiphat: I was just particularly amused at the length between posts and took the opportunity to post a meme (one which I thought was pretty benign and not belittling). It seemed like you were responding to a 2.5 year old post.

You are absolutely right, especially with topics such as this. Thank you very much for using the search function and having the perspective that you do. That helps make this forum the best one on the interwebs :tup:

Can I go on the record and admit the meme creeps me out. lol:wtf2:

Is that a clown, a zombie, or both?

:icon17:

From what I can tell, both :tup:

I wonder how they are going to make guys look tough driving when there are so few real manuals available. Hard to look tough flicking floppy paddle shifters. Cracks me up when commercials try to make a car look fast when the guys hand is on the shifter, but it's an automatic. I fear when I'm ready for a new car I won't be able to find a stick anymore. I think most of the new Porsche and Ferrari are only available with 2 pedals and floppy paddles. Faster, but takes some of the driving involvement away. I like using both feet. And not for left foot braking, which being an old coot, I can't get my head around.

Threads like this are comical. We have guys who probably have never lifted their hoods commenting in here. Some of the posts really show that.

There is one big difference that Mt Tam I Am sort of mentioned. There is a huge difference between over revving under load and over revving under no load. The loadings on the engine are completely different. I would not be worried about over revving for a quick duration, if the engine didn't drop a valve or break the oil pump your fine.

Longer than a just a quick blip of the rpms and I would be worried about the engine moving towards dangerous harmonics than anything else. Its those harmonics that would absolutely kill an engine (again the harmonics under load are going to be different than a quick overrev). I would consider the biggest limitation (aside from harmonics) to setting a redline for a particular engine is in the heads, more specifically the valves.

Think of it this way, unless an engine is blueprinted and truely balanced (and we all know that nothing is perfect) its like taking your very very slightly out of balance tire and accelerating with it. You can easily feel when the tire starts to vibrate the whole car, then as you go faster you may notice it go away, but there becomes a point when its going to get much worse as you start to move towards its natural frequency. The same thing will happen (and does happen) in your engine.


Anyways, sorry for the bit of a rant. I promise you your engine will be perfectly fine. If you were going to do damage you would have known right then and there when you dropped a valve.

Yep. If you overrevved it enough to cause piston to valve contact, you wouldn't need to ask anyone. You would know with 100% certainty because the car made a very expensive noise and you felt a sympathy pain in your wallet.

Ive money shifted twice (*ouch and ouch) Once on the freeway to damn near 9k in gear and another just over 8 at the track, with clutch out...

Not proud of it since it always feels like how you feel when you see someone get kicked in the balls..

That said, ive had compression and blow by checks to gauge health just before a TT install coming up. All looks good, car sounds strong, and mag oil plug looks typical. I have to say, these cars take abuse, but im not trying to repeat it....

BUT: I do know now that the non-nismo oil pumps are sht, and my future at the track could kill the car if i dont upgrade to a new billet oil pump gear, or simply switch to a nismo oil pump. And - i might have done damage to the pump that might reveal itself after boosting and tracking the car...

I did add an oil pressure gauge, something my OCD enjoys to stress about. So, I can catch a failure in time hopefully,,, but 99.999% I will swap to the new billet pump when they drop my motor for the turbo install.

ALL OF THAT SAID: if the car can hang with me for 2 years boosted, ill be sending it off to AAM for a forged block and 750WHP no shts given:rofl2:

You want a Sucker Punch oil pump. I would suggest you research on here for folks who build a quality motor. I would not use AAM.

:iagree:

Calling BS on the rev's tho. Unless you changed the factory rev limiter from 7,800 to some higher.

Syncro-rev WILL NOT over rev the engine, it will only rev to redline

Is it just me, or does it seem like some people really don't understand how an over rev happens and that a rev limiter has nothing to do with it good or bad.

BGTV8 is correct. The Syncro-rev will only supply fuel until the limiter is hit. Then shuts the fuel off. The over rev happens when the road speed is greater then the engine rpms for the gear the tranny is in when down shifting.

When up shifting. The factory rev limiter is set at 7,800 rpm. When you hit that up shifting. The fuel shuts off. The motor will coast up a few rpms past 7,800.

I've been in to my rev limiter more times then I care to count. :shakes head:

One car I had. I lost the motor by going down 2 gears instead of one. Big block chevy motors don't like to spin past 9,000 rpms. Spun all the rod and crank bearings. Egg shaped a few small ends on the rods too. :eek: