No kidding. :iagree: Is this the special olympics or something.

To me, the Z felt like it had a MASSIVE flywheel and it was kindof hard to rev-match my downshifts compared to my mustang GT or my Trans Am. It "lagged" when I blipped the throttle, andthis made it tricky to rev-match for me. I am used to a 1:1 response from the engine. That is, if I touch the pedal, the rpms rise. No perceptable lag, action--reaction. The Z was like "blip...thinking...REV~!". Maybe that was the ETC, but it sure felt like the flywheel was a pig.

^^^ An ECU flash fixes that, actually.

0_o

I think it's smoother when the SRM is turned off. However, I keep it on at all times. I have yet to stall the car:driving:

The 370Z hard to drive? I want what are some of you guys are smoking!

Some others need to go to driving school! :shakes head: :shakes head:

the Z has the worst clutch feel I've ever driven in 12 years of pure manual driving. it's a pain to drive but it has nothing to do with the power it has, its simply the clutch that sucks.

Man, I am with you .... the 370Z is a dream to drive .... if the guys on this thread aren't smoking something, I don;t know what is going on !!!

What other cars are you comparing the clutch to? Having driven other manuals, the Z is not that great. My friend's 700whp civic had a more civil clutch in it.

Please excuse the length of the following post.

Well, considering that there are now at LEAST 11 pages of posts on this topic, it is clear something is not as good as one might expect in a modern sports car. While I had adapted to the clutch quirks in this car, I am not one to settle for what the factory provided if I don't like it. So, I investigated and made some changes and am 100% happier. My investigation revealed 2 flaws:

1. (as others also have noted) the engagement point is too high off the floor, causing one to have to modulate at the engagement point with one's knee up in the air. Not optimum. Can it be driven this way? Sure. Would ANY race driver (not that I am) worth his/her salt NOT change it in order to improve overall performance? No.

2. The return spring on the pedal is not a simple affair. It is a linkage to a spring unit which is oriented 90 degrees away from what you might expect (for space considerations, I'm sure). The relationship between pedal motion and spring compression is not linear. It is a sinusoidal relationship. A sine function 'rate of change' (slope of curve; energy needed to move the pedal) passes through zero and 'infinity' (changing from positive to negative at each of these points) as the input (clutch pedal position) changes. This friggin linkage goes through the 'infinity' point in the relationship right about at the engagement point.

If anyone does the adjustment detailed in the other clutch thread, they can experience this first hand. With the clutch push-rod disconnected from the pedal, move the pedal through it's range of motion, starting at the pedal fully 'up' position. Push, resistance, push, resistance, push SNAP the pedal goes to the floor and stays there. You have to pull it back up (with the master cyl push-rod attached, the clutch spring, fed back thru the hydraulics, pushes the pedal back up). Pull, resistance, pull, resistance, pull SNAP the pedal snaps up to the fully 'up' position. The SNAP occurs where? Right at the stock engagement point. Maybe this was on purpose... the pedal 'helping' inexperienced drivers to get their foot off the clutch pedal once the thing is engaged.

The net result is a distinct change in pedal response, right where I least want it. What to do? Well - fortunately- when the push-rod linkage is adjusted, the relationship of pedal-position-to-engagement-point is changed, and the spring snap-over occurs well past the engagement point, as I am taking my foot off the pedal.

As discussed above, a good driver can compensate for a lot of faults in the car (Fernando Alonzo in a 2009-spec Renault F1 car comes to mind as a possible pinnacle of that!), but don't overlook the fact that many faults (such as the clutch action in our 370Z) CAN be fixed.

Again, I've driven several other manuals, lighter ones, heavier ones, more power, less power...

The Z's manual is fine. It's not butterscotch awesome smooth, but it does the job. It's certainly not "sky is falling" terrible as some here are claiming.

The transmission itself was just fine. The clutch/way it engauges are my only gripe with it. The gearbox felt just fine to me.

And here I differ. The clutch and the feeling of engagement are responsive enough for me. Again, it's no Mazda short shifter, and certainly not on BMW level.

But, then again, this isn't some hugely expensive sports car, or at least mine isn't. I bought in on the low end, so it's just been driving bliss for me since the beginning.

Plus, clutches are something that every car feels different with. You have to learn and adapt to each one and learn how to drive that exact car. I like doing this. It's sometimes challenging, but ultimately one should be able to pick it up, or as some have suggested, have some work done. But I think the stock clutch is fine. Thar I sed it.

So I was at a stop light this morning when a guy in a 370Z pulled up to me. He rolled down his window and looked over at me, his face bright red and dripping with sweat, and asked, "hey, is that 5.0 easy to drive?" He was running out of breath and I thought he was about to pass out. "Are you OK?" I asked.

"Yes--" weezing like an asthmatic child in gym class he answered, "this car is just... so hard to drive."

And that, folks, is why I sold my 370Z.

:icon18::icon18::icon18::icon18:

Prolly less work to just ride a bike wherever.

:bowrofl::roflpuke2::bowrofl::roflpuke2:

How do you like the pressure plate in the 5.0? its gotta be a lot heavier than the Z... I remember my bullitt mustang had a killer pressure plate!!! it was insane to drive on a daily basis then again I did mod the hell out of it. :hello: