:iagree:
Good test right here. Im thinking you saved people a bunch of cash with the Frost King discovery.

Great idea. Awesome that it looks like this stuff is going to work. Perfect.

Pictures Finally
 

Finally had a few minutes last night to download pictures off my camera.

I first bought the FatMat Trunk Kit, 5 sheets @ 18 x 36. This covered the fender humps, the front area behind the seats, and up and over the axle beam. But that was it.

Then I bought a 25 square ft FatMat bulk kit, 5 sheets @ 18 x 40. With this I was able to finish the bottom, back corners, back wall, and have 1 sheet left to double up on the fender humps.

In other words, if you want to do the ENTIRE back end, you will need about 50 sq ft.

Here's the rest of the pics.

Here's pics before the job even started, and then after it's done, putting everything back in.

Bonzo
 

Nice job. i would still add a layer , say 1/2inch of some other insulating material over the Fat Mat.

With all the specialty parts made for these cars I cant believe a company cant easily make a sound mat thats cut for our trunk areas. A simple computer mapping would make the cutting easy. Just sayin:yum:

Somebody should sell a sound proofing kit for the Z with the precut pieces of fatmat or dynamat all ready to go. I'm lazy, I would buy a kit like that.

One would think. This car is an anomaly.

On the after market front, I can't even get Weather Tech to make a formed rubber trunk liner mat for our cars either, and that's what they DO.

I guess with the super low production on these things we should be happy we got the car at all? Beggars can't be choosers??

I read an article (Second Skin?) that said 100% coverage was overkill, and that covering the center of most panels would be enough to deaden vibrations. After that, a sound absorber was recommended.

Does anyone think you don't really need 100% coverage?

Is there really any reason to keep those foam panels in the back

Foam Panels
 

Evil, i was thinking the same. Actually, the area around the spare is a nice unseen storage compartment once you remove the spare. I added those pieces of carpet insulation behind those panels also. They probably help with some sound insulating from the wheel wells though.

What if I dont want to remove my spare. My Bose Sub sits on top of it

Thanks for posting those picts up. That is almost exactly what I did with the FatMat product. Your pictures save me from posting up mine. I may have accidently deleted mine cause I can't find mine amoungst all my SD chips.

Thanks again.... it will help others.... :tiphat:

Too Bad
 

Three of us cant get togther who used Dynamat, FatMat and Frost King and actually compare by riding in each others car over the same conditions. What works best? Full application, partial application. With doors and without. Adding extra layer on top and without. Which is best?

Hey guys.. do you think this type of sound absorber would work ?

Probably
 

I would think any cloth like material would certainly help. Now add Dynamat or Fat Mat. The more = better.

Whatcha got there would probably help with high frequency sound control. Dynamat helps with panel vibrations. For total control you would probably also need something like Luxury Liner Pro, which is a closed cell foam bonded to a mass loaded vinyl, which helps control low frequency tones.

Yep
 

I thought I said that.

FYI did anyone read the recent edition of Car and Driver? They reviewed three cars..a Corvette, a Porshe Turbo and a Nissan R...One comment stood out..they said the R could have been the best for cross country driving ..were it not for the large amount of cabin noise..

I threw some pillows in the back today and tested the car.. I actually think it was a little bit better... but cant tell im just imagining it. I also dont know if pillows would be as effective as the sound absorber products out there. I think my car is extra loud cause of the tires. Im using some NANKANG NS-2 that came with the car when I bought it.

I had those same nankings on old lexus GS430, made that car rediculously noisy, can only imagine the tire size and a Z

I found this review about those tires..

These tyres are a genuine false economy!! They have decent grip in both wet and dry, but tyre noise got so bad I had 2 wheel bearings replaced before realosing it was the TYRES. Replaced with Pirelli P6000s and massive difference and not that much more expensive!

and in that same forum somone posted this..

I'm very satisfied with my NS2. I've used my first set for 4 years now, and will definitely consider buying them again, when it's time. They are silent running, and gives a precise feeling.

Enough to drive anyone crazy!

http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Nankang/NS2.htm

Some stores let you try the tires before buying and that is the best way to go..

Just changed out original tires on my '09 base for Continental Extreme Contact DWS. WOW! Cut out half the road noise and made for a less harsh ride, as well. Still a wonderful car---and now a joy to drive. Reasonably priced tires, worth their weight in gold!

Tires
 

I also changed tires recently to much larger Hankooks V12s 255/295. They're better than the smaller 225/245s 18s I had. Softer ride and noise is I believe quieter.

The Nitto Invos I put on the Z are significantly better IMO than the stock Bridgestone Potenzas. Less cabin noise, adequate handling, and way better wear performance thus far as well. My understanding is that the asymmetrical tread pattern on the Invos also helps to decrease road noise.

I am very interested to compare them to the Continental Extremes, but I've just been so happy with these Invos I'm not sure I'll switch.

The rear stock Potenzas were trashed in < 8K miles - the car is my wife's daily driver so this was unbelievably poor wear performance in my opinion. These tires are clearly garbage based on my experience and the accounts on this forum. Plus the dealer wanted like $375 per rear tire for 275s. I got Invo 285s at Discount Tire for $250 apiece! And we've already got more than 8K mile on the Invos with probably enough tread left for another ~4K miles (I believe these Invos start with more tread than is typical as well).

The best local shop where I live uses the Stinger Roadkill product instead of Dynamat. From what I could find on the web they are comparable products. Anyone have any experience or knowledge about the differences?

You would be good with either one. If you have a shop do it, make sure you inspect the coverage before they cover it back up so you are satisfied with what they do. I did my own, but if read this entire thread, some people got screwed.

Had the work done on the car today. They did the rear areas and the doors. I also changed the tires to Michelin Pilot A/S. Between all that there was a significant difference. I'm still going to have them do the cabin floor area, too, for whatever I get out of that. It was well done (I inspected it 3 times during the day), and they used 4 pkgs of the stuff (this shop uses the RoadKill equivalent to the Dynamat). I think I've gotten the most bang for the buck already, but figure I'm going to go ahead with the floor, too. It didn't make it quiet like some Mercedes, but I didn't expect that. Things are really improved and we can now hold a normal conversation even at freeway speeds.

Same exact tire here..and same result...:)

In my case, the tire change was only part of the battle, thouth. The other half was the Dynamat (Roadkill brand in this instance) installation. The improvement was a combination of both actions.

For anyone interested, it cost me $734 to have the sound isolation/insulation stuff done.

I also had dynamat placed in the hatch and doors..$1200.:(.guess they know a sucker when they see one!

Interestingly enough, when I checked by phone over two weeks ago (before buying the car) I was quoted "around $2 thousand" to do the whole car. But when I went in Friday it was a different story. It took one man all day, and he used 4 pkgs of the stuff so far. So the material was about $370, and the rest was mostly labor. I'll have to pay some more to get the cabin floor done, but it looks like about half of what I first expected for everything.

I was quoted about $300 each for hatch and doors so around $600 total if I wanted to do both which includes materials

That is really effen good. If the noise is that bad, I would probably say jump on the deal.

For the ones that have used Roadkill or Dynamat have you noticed a night & day difference?

Since I have HFCs, I don't notice the road noise as much, haha.

My experience with Dynamat was that there was that there was a slight difference when I did the hatch and more when i did the doors. (There is NO sound insulation in the doors) The two added up to a significant change, not night and day difference but significant.. and when I put on new tires there was even more..

The point being that, to me at least, no one thing made a "night and day" difference..but all three together did. It's still "sports car loud".. enough for me anyway ..but a lot more pleasurable especially on long drives. Guess if you're on the track it really doesn't matter..

Funny thing is that the other day I was driving my wife around thinking how much better it was..and on her own she mentioned that she thought it was loud!
She is used to an Accord sedan.

In my experience I went from really thinking I had made a very bad mistake to driving it every time I can with a big smile!! :) In fact I am about to go for a cruise right now! :)

What we really need is some accurate sound measuring device that can tell exactly how much difference these mods make..Anyone?

:iagree:

Yeah, I've got he same exhaust / HFC set up as you and it's like 'What road noise?' Unless you're coasting...

For me, I'd say it cut the sound levels in half or more. That still doesn't make it like a Mercedes, but now you can carry on a conversation on the highway without shouting. It's definitely worth the trouble and $ for me.