what is the best intake short ram or cold air
 

Hey i am new to the forms, i just got a 370z love it :ughdance: and wanted to get a intake but was not sure what i should get, people have told me to get the short ram gives better performance and the cold air are too long and are for top end i always thought the cold air was better i am a little confused :icon14:

Joe

Welcome to the forums.

There's no right or wrong intake. They are all different and have different styling and sound. Click here Intake/Exhaust - Nissan 370Z Forum and scroll down the page (next few pages) You'll see them one after another.

I believe STILLEN G3 is the MOST popular intake on the forum. There are few members with Injen long tubes, HKS, JWT etc.

Good luck

EDIT: AK beat me to it.

Most people are reporting the most gains from the Longtube Intakes, like Stillen or Injen.

Some of the shorter intakes just don't ensure enough *cold* air gets in, and are showing very small gains, and in one (possibly anecdotal instance) case, a loss of power after the installation.

Take into consideration, that each of the popular longtube intakes also have slightly more involved installation requirements. The injen, for example, requires aftermarket wiper fluid tanks to be installed. The Stillen G3 require slight widening of some holes in the diffuser plate (I hope that's the correct term).

Definitely check out the exhaust/intake section for reviews/write-ups about the different intakes being offered currently.

thanks been alot of help

G3 win!

Most that have gone with short rams have later upgraded to long tubes.

save yourself some cash, and just go with Long Tubes :tiphat:

:iagree:

Unless you want looks and an easier install. But if you want performance and maybe an hour of work, go with long tubes.

with the stillen ultra long tubes, i know there's some work (as mentioned earlier) where you have to cut out some holes...does any of this void the nissan warranty? heck, does installing new intakes void the warranty?

Not all this information is totally accurate. I have R2C short intakes (which are sealed off from engine heat) and when combined with the Modshack vent modification the intake temps are as low or lower than those provided by the G3. Some tests have shown that as soon as you re-install the front bumper much of the G3 advantage is lost. Regardless of which intake you use (including the stock) the Modshack modification does provide a real benefit.

the R2C's have a heat shield, which gets hot, which in turn makes the area surrounding the filter cones to become warm, the G3's are a true cold air intake and collect air passing between the fangs, they are by far, in the most efficient location they could possibly be. People have dyno'ed the G3's up to 20whp, not crank, wheel. I'll tell you right now, after a few drags last night, the engine was hot, the tubes themselves were ICE COLD, which says to me that the intakes were sucking in a pretty good amount of air. I'll be doing an independent dyno soon, and my butt dyno is definitely telling me i've got the juice.

Also keep in mind that the G3 dyno's are done sitting still with a fan, so if they're producing gains of 18-20 whp sitting still on a dyno, imagine what they actually make cruising on the highway at 70+ mph or hauling a$$ down the 1320.

Please provide results to this part of your comment.
I can search a multiple set of journals on this forum and pull up people getting 15+ with Stillen Gen III with front bumper on for dyno runs. Not saying the modshack design plus better filters is better or worse, but the Gen III do great with the bumper on/off.

:iagree:

Here is a quote from Mike Kojima (perhaps the most well-known Nissan tuner) when he tested the G3 on a 370Z automatic

"Since the stock intake system is so efficient we were pretty sure that the Stillen intake was not going to make much difference and we were both right and seriously wrong. When running on the dyno, the Stillen intake produced on the average 3 more whp but less torque at 270 whp and 216 lb/ft with the power gains coming high in the powerband above 6700 rpm. Below 6700 rpm, the Stillen Intake lost a slight bit of power and torque. This isn’t the whole story though. For the sake of curiosity, we removed the front bumper fascia and ran the car with the airflow of the dyno’s cooling fan blowing straight on the filters. We were amazed to see that the Stillen intake belt out an additional 10 whp nearly completely across the board! Not believing our eyes, we ran the car with the bumper cover off for many pulls and the numbers repeated. We then replaced the bumper cover and the power numbers dropped to what they had been.

Stillen’s cold air intake is clearly a superior design with great power potential but the bumper traps hot air in the vicinity of the filters which nullifies most of the gains. We hope Stillen reads this and creates a bumper vent and heatshield kit so that the full potential of this great intake can be realized. Since people do not drive without a front bumper we are only going to show our with bumper cover power results."

Link to article? I have yet to read this yet or it is very old news.
The last time a shop post an install/review of the Stillen Gen III it was proven they changed the stock numbers because a week later their tune came out showing massive gains yet no one else got those gains.

This will be more work then the G3 install.

The Modshack vent mod is not that difficult to do but it does require removal of the bumper cover. I have a dash dyno permanently installed to my OBD and can monitor intake air temps all the time. Intake temps are never more than 7-10 degrees above ambient temps unless stopped at a light. As soon as I accelerate the temps drop to normal within 15 seconds. The intakes are getting cool forced-fed air.

I remember seeing this a couple of months ago too, it was kinda what made my decision not to get the G3s, atleast for the time being. So to me the important thing to do is do the Modshack DIY vent thing no matter what intake you have for full benefits.

On a side note, I still havent fix my front bumber scratches yet but when I do I will be doing the DIY, and will see how things go with just KN drop ins for now.

Reviving this from the dead because I'm debating between a SRI/CAI..and noticed there was a mod to get cooler air with whatever intake. Link to "modshack mod"?

Dont get short ram. If you want to keep it simple do the KN filter/maf tubes route.

But here is a link....
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ur-airbox.html

:iagree:

CAI or K&N filters/maf tubes.

Wouldn't that be a short ram technically? I like that route though. What are the gains of the z1 maf tubes and k&n filters?

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I had K&N drop ins with post maf tubes. The only reason I went with G3 intakes was because they were used and I got them on that extra cheap!

Not really since the stock box draws cooler air in from the nose vs short rams in the engine bay.

Tubes and Filters gain..... I've seen #'s somewhere but I didn't really care I have AEM LONG tubes anyway.:driving:

Reviving the thread again...changing the air filters tomorrow in my z...should i spend the $95+ for k&n dropin filters for my stock airbox system or go with a cheap ram intake setup(can have shipped for $25) and replace the stock airbox system?

Do you think that a cheap ram system will work for you if it has clearly not worked for others??? Did you search any further at all regarding this issue??? There are numerous threads and posts on this issue.

You have 2 options;
1. more affordable is K&N with stock air boxes and Z1 silicone MAF tubes.
or
2. more expensive, more HP and better option, either the Z1 or Stillen Cold Air Intake/long tubes. The Stillen CAI set up requires some cutting for installation, the Z1 CAI does not.

Use the 'search' function for additional opinions, info and instructions.

What makes the motor louder inside the cabin?

The engine doesn't get louder with a CAI installation. If anything, you may hear a louder 'whoosh' sound. Thats your intakes breathing in more air into your engine. The trick with a properly maintained NA engine is, not hearing the engine at all. You should only here the intake and the exhaust.

Just get the R2C. Easy install too.
Sounds better in cabin and looks cool.
Honestly none of these intakes add power worth mentioning all have their own studies claiming tons of extra power but probably :bs:...
The real power is in turbos and a tune :wtf2:

In this revived thread, I've been on the fence over a G2 setup. There was another old thread that reported gains with the bumper on. The heat shields seem convincing, although the metal tubing could arguably counter that. I do have the pMAF tube and filter setup right now, and have been heavily convinced it is the smartest way to go. Pretty much only gain I expect from the G2's is....aesthetic.

Don't want to be an armchair engineer but I was always a bit skeptical of how air gets to the filters of the G3. It's literally crammed up front. Crash bar is covering the bottom, bumper covers the front and perhaps parts of the top. I'd be assuming air is only flowing from the backside off the radiator and the gains would only be because of the MAF sensor being tricked to run leaner. I am open to being wrong, though. I mean for sure there would be something more promising with more aggressive ducting.

My butt dyno tells me that stock airboxes with K&N drop-ins has less pull than when I had my Takedas.

There is a reason that the long tube type intakes were developed, yes one of them is additional HP for sure. If you are a sceptic, don't install it! The G3 type CAI has more air to draw from under the bumper than the stock air boxes do. More air means more HP, it's quite simple.