You need to take it back. If the kit is already lifting you are going to have major problems with it down the road. I have been installing film for years and having film lift is a sign of a bad install. Once dirt gets under the film it will be ruined. Take it back now and demand that it be replaced and that he should heat seal the edges with a heat gun next time.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Do you recommend the "do it yourself"er heat seal the edges? Why is it necessary if you get a good adhesion?

Thanks....

I had some questions about this clear bra thing:

1) Will it damage the paint at all if it is removed?
2) I would probably want to do the entire hood so I wont have any lines...would there be a difference in the way the hood looks compared to the rest of the car? When you wax it does it result in the same shine and beauty as if it wasnt on there at all?

Thanks

I had a question too... since the clear bra is a barrier against the paint is there a point to waxing or polishing anymore with it on? Im guessing wax will create another barrier but do you still polish, seal, clay etc the car?

Good input on this thread. :tup: I think you're giving everyone quality information. I assume you're a dealer?
I'm a large Clearshield dealer in my part of the world and technical trainer for Bekaert Canada.

It won't damage factory paint. I had a bad repaint on my 350 and it did peel a bit of that when I took it off to be repainted correctly.

You can see it a little, but if you keep it waxed regularly, you really won't be able to notice it. If you don't take care of it and keep it waxed, it will show its age.

TARDCORE,
you still wax, polish, clay etc. I just clay barred and polished my corvette today, including the bra.

Don't use a clay bar on the clear bra, I was told it will scratch it.

I recommend you use a sealant as opposed to a wax. Zaino works really well. Most brands of way will yellow as it ages on the car. So whatever you put on your film will absorb into it. That creates alot of the perceptions that film yelllows over time. A lot of the times its actually the wax.... not the film. But you do need to protect it and keep it glossy... if nothing else to protect it from bug stains, bird droppings, and so on. I have found an acrylic sealant that seals the film up very well and makes it as glossy and smooth as the paint. Its great stuff and I have had great results with it over the years. It was actually designed for aircraft windscreens... for filling in swirl marks.

AS far as the paint goes it will not damage the paint if its a factory paint job... or if the respray was properly done. There is a ton of info on this if you do a search. Let me know if you have any more questions.

It won't. Plus if you happen to own a powdercoating business and park your car near your work (in my case, the garage, which is sealed but still gets contaminated), its the only way to take it off. I clay bar my vette every couple months and it doesn't affect it at all. I have x-pel film, so other films might be different.

Speaking of sealers, x-pel has their own sealer that they recommend now. my installer gave me a sample when he did the Z last month, but I haven't tried it yet. before that, he was recommending NXT-2, which is what I use so I figured why switch?

You have to make sure not to use waxes with petroleum distillates. My installer recommended Plexus. Its used mainly for the avation industry and contains NO patroleum distillates. This stuff is awsome!!
Plexus

I've been using Turtle Wax ICE synthetic wax and it seems to work great. Since is not a natural wax it doesn't yellow and it makes the surface quite slick (its pretty "grippy" when you slide a wool mit over it compared to the clear coat until you seal it). It also doesn't interfear with the edge (transition between the paint and the surface of the film) and give you a line of white wax residue. So far so good. Turtle Wax ICE can be applied to plastic trim (and it looks great) whereas Meguires NXT recomends not getting on plastic and since the film is plastic I'd go with ICE....

ok so basically I no longer need to go through the long process of wash, clay, wash, polish, glaze, seal, wax. now its just wash, clay, wash, seal?

I just got quoted a price of $1500 in order to install the clear bra on the entire hood, bumper, and fenders. It seemed extremely high to me. What do you guys think?

Yeah, way high although I don't have it on the whole hood/fenders just 1/3 or half-ish but I only paid 500 for full bumper the hood/fender and side mirrors.