Zspeed CMAK backordered
 

I bought (and paid) a Zspeed cmak and clutch kit through another vendor back in January but still have not heard anything back on availability. Because I am importing into Canada, I bought it through vendor since they are taking care of shipping and brokerage and duty. Has anyone heard back on availability of the kit?

Ever since Zspeed was sold. It's been a chit show on getting parts. :mad:

Yeah seems bad, since I was also buying a lot more stuff (swaybar, endlinks, diff bushing, SPL FUCA, poly trans mount) I tried to get the supplier I usually use to get the cmak and they tried to get in touch with Zspeed for 2 weeks in January and never got a response back, so had to use this other company :shakes head:

Damn I wasn't aware they were sold. They have the best CMAK kit on the market.

That's a bummer.

Supplier I am using just let me know that they don't have an ETA and that ZSpeed is not responding to their e-mails. They also said they are still waiting for stuff from them that they ordered back in October. **** don't look good. I guess I will wait a bit more and maybe see if I can switch to a Jim Wolfe setup with their HD CSC

Zspeed was sold to Soho Performance in 2022. There's always some hiccups expected with there's a transition like that, and no way to predict if issues will be solved. IIRC, Soho's been around the game for a while, but taking over for another entity's business is never clean.

You can request a refund and go with another option, such as that HD CSC you mentioned. Z1 also has a CSC solution (i think a large replacement and a smaller solution, but i never looked into it)

Have Not had an Issue with Soho and CMACK parts. and replacements or support.

Bought a SOHO intake as well, no issues on delivery and support.

DONT SHIP TO CANADA! ANYTHING! (coming from a Canadian)

I am still not getting anything from the company I ordered the CMAK from, Zspeed has responded through e-mails but the answers look fishy, It's always next week and if you want one, put an order in right now (even though it shows as backordered on their site) so I am asking the drop shipper to refund me or I will start a case with credit card Co. to reverse the charge.

ZSpeed posted on FB last week (I believe, or possibly the week before) that they were shipping out some of the orders. But, depending on how far down the line you are, who knows when you'll receive your parts...

I'm not seeing that post on FB. If at least I was getting some kind of acknowledgement, but crickets....

I believe that George is running the Z Speed side. george@sohomotorsports.com

My 370 is up in the air right now at the dealer. CSC failed. They are suggestion to not go with the OEM. CMAK of course is back ordered. Concept Z makes one called CZP relocation kit. To me it looks like the CMAK has a better fork mount system where as the CZP uses a pivot ball. In the other hand the CZP slave cylinder bracket looks beefier. Anyone have any info on this? I believe I read that one of the installs is trickier regarding the hydraulic lines

We installed one of the CZP kits. It's decent but not as good as the CMAK.

IMO the best one seems to be the new Z1 kit. I have one on the shelf if you'd like to have it asap with them having it backordered.

with the RZ34 sharing the same transmission and suffering from the same issue, i'm shocked suppliers haven't cranked up their inventory. or maybe its new Z owners buying them up realizing they need 'em

I have a Zspeed HD replacement slave, which isn't a full solution like the CMAK, but it's held up for six years, so i didn't see any need to replace

i also have a Zspeed HD replacement, my shop actually suggested that over the CMAK.

even with the zspeed HD, it took a while to get it. i also had to email them to get an answer. :(

Definitely does not have the same problem. They have an external slave cylinder in the new Zs.

they finally changed it?!

So the CMAK is in and car is on the ground. I bought the OEM pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel. First thing I noticed was the pressure required was a little more which I like. It gives you a better feel of what is going down. The only issue is the pedal engages very close to the floor and if I don't focus on pushing the pedal down all the way it'll grind going into first. Just wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this. I talked with George at Zoho/ZSpeed and he feels confident the master cylinder after being drained and bled will not be able to provide enough pressure. I can see this as only getting worse. Dealer is trying to tell me the new clutch needs to be broken in. George also suggested getting an OEM master. George has had experience with this before and feels 99% the master needs to be replaced. I'm embarrassed to say what the dealer charged me to re and re the tranny etc. and would rather not put any more money into it. If I had a hoist I would have done it myself. I'm too old now to be crawling around on my belly like a reptile. The master looks pretty easy to replace.

The clutch break-in does not affect your activation point on the pedal. I highly recommend getting that master replaced as it is usually almost mandatory when replacing the slave cylinder or equivalent... to the point where ZSpeed will not warranty the upgraded slave unless the master was replaced at the same time.

yep: https://www.z1motorsports.com/clutch...r-p-37349.html

That makes sense. I guess if you think about it any kind of wear you would get on the disc, pressure plate and flywheel wouldn't be enough to notice any change in the activation point. Thank you!

Low Pedal
 

I was able to raise the activation point by loosening the jam nut at the clevis pin at the pedal and then adjusting the length of shaft of the master. I only did about one full turn and this raised it maybe 1/2". I'm going to try another turn. A little goes a long way and I believe too much will make the needed 'free play' go away.

I got mine replaced on 09.18.24 at 41k miles, but only put about 280 miles and still going through the settle-in process.

I can't say I felt any slipping although as recommended I've 'tried' to keep the RPM below 3000 for 500 miles. I'm at about 100 miles now. Before going out today I gave the master cylinder piston rod an extra turn thereby raising the engagement point up a little more. I had no grinding or hard to find gears. I'm still going to replace the master cylinder as has been suggested by a couple different sources that say after draining and bleeding that the old master cylinder is weakened. I'm just guessing here and please try to get more information on this but apparently the 'stack height' of the clutch is important. I had an ACT clutch/pressure plate in my Miata which worked great but this is a different application for sure and so the stack height may be an issue. You mentioned the clutch engagement was close to the floor. Mine was too close and I was able to rectify this by lengthening the rod at the clevis which raised the engagement point. With the different ACT clutch it may not be disengaging completely making it feel like it is slipping but since the damn car has so much torque it may not act like its slipping. If it is slipping you might want to correct this as premature wear of the clutch may occur or you might get hot spots on the pressure plate.